JMLFASHIONBOOK
SHOP THE ISSUE
IN OTHER WORDS: WHAT'S GOING ON
Welcome to JMLFashionBook - my little online love letter to fashion magazines. Trying to create an online print magazine is a bit of an oxymoron, but who said love was easy? I love the fact that the print magazine, as a physical object, creates the sense of the written work having a beginning, middle and end. I love that the reading experience in print magazines is guided through having a defined order of content. I love magazine page layouts, and how these add to the voice and feel of the magazine. I love that the physical page of fashion magazines treats images and text equally, allowing the reader to draw parallels between them as the eye darts back and forth. These things are are all lost in websites and blogs. But online, the publication is always growing; it's never a static final product, but something alive and constantly in flux. It's also much more immediate - it can be created and accessed straight away, without the delay of printing and physical distribution. And it's hyper-connected. If the content piques your interest in a product, that item is only seconds away: just click a link. JML is arranged in anti-chronological order, like a blog, so the most recent work appears first. As such it is constantly evolving, with new content adding to the original. This presents its own challenges, as maintaining the sense of curated magazine structure requires planning. It's also completely shoppable, so if anything you see on these pages takes your fancy, click the 'SHOP THE ISSUE' link at the top of each page and you'll be linked through to where you can buy it. JML is therefore also a live practical exercise, of sorts, on combining the best parts of print and online fashion journalism, with a little bit of e-commerce thrown in. We'll see how it works out. All written work is my own. I can't take credit for any of the images, save for the magazine's front cover, which I styled. The physical appearance of these pages are the result of my trial and error, and my conviction that when it comes to graphic design, a degree of unevenness in the layout of the page makes it easier to focus on - and read. I hope I haven't lost you in my waffling. And I hope you enjoy reading these pages - I enjoyed making them.
Jem Leslie
Editor's Letter
If it's good enough for Chelsy Davy, it'll work for us. By which we mean, of course, the trend for tusk shaped jewellery: edgy but timeless, the natural shape has cool-girl allure - as endorsed by the South African designer herself. Shaun Leane also gets a shout out here: the grandaddy of tusk jewellery never gets it wrong.
According to Google's latest Fashion Trends report, Bomber jackets are the most googled fashion item of 2016 so far. But with everyone wearing them, are we in danger of bomber-fatigue? Worry not, because Chloe has the answer for how to update the look for A/W16: wear under overalls. Thank us later.
Leopard print never really went away, but for the autumn it got sporty. And it's not hogging the limelight either: animal skin patterns of all denominations are in, and they're all just a little bit, well, cooler than your average disney villain look. The key is in fact in the styling: take classic, unfussy pieces and pair with loose, simple clothes in chic pastels and greys. There's an air of the teenager about this trend: bag a Thrasher tee or head to Ganni for tees straight from your most rebellious years. ,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: T-shirt, £24.99, Thrasher, thrashermagazine.com; Trainers, £485, Dolce and Gabbana, ssense.com; Trousers, £390, John Galliano, farfetch.com; Belt, £55, Hobbs, johnlewis.com; Shirt, £175, Harrods, harrods.com; Bag, £900, Tomasini, net-a-porter.com; Bangle, £57, Kenneth Jay Lane, orchardmile.com; Sweatshirt, £100, Ganni, mytheresa.com; Shoes, £440, Stella McCartney, brownsfashion.com; Jacket, £1,910, Adam Lippes, farfetch,com
STYLE UPDATE
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Ring, £495, Shaun Leane, farfetch.com; Earrings, £200, Pembe Club, runwaytostreet.com; Earrings, £905, AYA by Chelsy Davy, plukka,com; Pendant, £1, 675, Anne Sisterton, annesisterton.com; ring, £115, Alexa de Castillo, graziashop.com; Ring, £250, Shaun Leane, farfetch.com; Necklace, £125, Maria Black, trouva.com
Jacket, £50, Mango, mango.com; Overalls, £25, Zara, zara.com The Row, matchesfashion.com; Trousers, £2,640, Christopher Kane, modaoperandi.com; Shoes, £1,165, Chanel, vestiairecollective.com; Shoes, £38, Zara, zara.com; T shirt, £112, Courreges, farfetch.com
5 Second
the IG follow: @emelisindlev
look for this: Tusk Force consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
the new way to wear it: bomber & dungarees , sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
ya Filthy Animal consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Chloe AW16 , zara.com The Row, matchesfashion.com; Trousers, £2,640, Christopher Kane, modaoperandi.com; Shoes, £1,165, Chanel, vestiairecollective.com; Shoes, £38, Zara, zara.com; T shirt, £112, Courreges, farfetch.com
Daniella Helayel, aka founder and former creative director of British label Issa, has returned with a new women’s collection called Dhela. The label will move away from the knee-length jersey dresses synonymous with her first label, and will instead focus on flowier pieces in Helayel's signature nature-inspired prints and bold colours.
The tweed trouser made a strong case for itself in the Autumn/Winter catwalks, and nowhere more so than at Marni. A traditional fabric for outdoor pursuits, this season tweed gets the athletic treatment: wear with sporty stripes and unconventional layering to nail the trend.
the Sporty Tweed consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
D H E L A
Hobbit Habit , consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Denim boutique pioneer Donna Ida knows a thing or two about getting the perfect fit. Just as well, as she has just revealed her capsule collection for British high street brand Jaeger, promising British style infused with Ida's expertise for directional denim and contemporary seperates. The black flared 'Liv' jean gets our vote.
designer watch
We've all seen - and lusted after - those Gucci fur-lined loafers. But their cousins deserve our time, too: the fur-covered mule promises to swathe your feet in fluff - a positively delicious concept for early autumn. team with socks or leave your ankles bare and pair with cropped trousers. Just beware of puddles...
LEFT TO RIGHT: Shoes, £370, Avec Moderation, avenue32.com; Shoes, £340, Tibi, tibi.com; Shoes, £56, Zara, zara.com; Shoes, £456, Chloe Kerenn, forwardbyelsewalker.com
FROM TOP: Top, £30, River Island, riverisland.com; Top, £360, Caroline Constas, net-a-porter.com; Trousers, £25, Uniqlo, uniqlo.com; Shoes, £517, Rupert Sanderson, farfetch.com; Jodhpurs, £635, Balenciaga, net-a-porter.com; Trainers, £70, Adidas, office.co.uk Jacket, £318, Sandro, sandro-paris.com; Sweatshirt, £15, Harajuku, amazon.com; Earrings, £220, Marni, mytheresa.com; Trousers, £515, Isa Arfen, matchesfashion.com
BoyyBoutique
Marni AW16
NORDIC NECESSITIES: If you're craving more Scandi fashion inspiration, click each picture to link to the brand's Instagram feed. Or select 'SHOP THE ISSUE' for styling options m nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
S A K S P O T T S Danish street style favourite Saks Potts does transitional dressing well - and fluffy sleeves hails et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
B A U M U N D P F E R D G A R T E N These Danes know something about playing with contrast in both shape and texture dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
M A R D O U & D E A N Crisp, edgy designs for the urban traveller. Oslo's answer to Isabel Marant invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
G I N A T R I C O T A Swedish fashion chain known for its simple, affordable designs simplicity d tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
B Y M A L E N E B I R G E R A Danish brand known for its clean lines, sharp tailoring and bold details handcrafted embellishments and high-quality fabrics tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
#INSTABRANDS
J U S T F E M A L E Copenhagen's go-to for lean, contemporary style in monochrome palettes magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
If Copenhagen and Stockholm fashion weeks have proven anything, it's that Scandi style has a lot more to offer than brass light fittings and reclaimed wood. Add these labels to your Instagram feed for a dose of Scandinavian cool.
H O U S E O F D A G M A R Sophisticated, urban designs from Stockholm's coolest sisters Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
G A N N I Copenhagen-based cult label Ganni is about individuality and light-hearted design design,mix-and-match approach. towards dressing. Look no further for your next wardrobe favourite. invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
J U L I E J O S E P H I N E The perfect white tee is hard to find, but this Scandinavian brand has it down sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
STYLE.COM IS OPEN
Click here to enter
P rior to April 2015, Style.com was the go-to for fashion news, catwalk images and show reviews. If you head there now, however, you’ll find it’s a little different: after a year offline, the site is back – and it’s certainly worth the wait. Condé Nast has relaunched Style.com as an e-commerce business, turning the site into a curated shopping experience. As part of Condé Nast, Style.com had to resonate with the publisher’s other high profile brands - including Vogue and GQ, to name a few. So it had to go in at top-level. This wasn’t a ‘start small and grow’ project: Style.com had to launch with the same brands on offer that would take any normal e-commerce business years to accumulate. And the feel of the website had to be authoritative: Condé Nast can't risk their magazines losing any of their shine. In addition to the high stakes, this site marks a time of change in both the publishing and fashion industries. Put simply, people just don’t buy as many magazines as they did in the past. Although Condé Nast’s circulation figures are up, it makes sense for the company to supplement their magazine offering with e-commerce – and this is their first undertaking of that nature. Not only did the new Style.com have to please its customers, it had the beady eyes of the whole fashion industry to contend with as well. Fortunately, Style.com does not disappoint. This indeed is online shopping as brought to you by Vogue: over the next few months over 300 luxury brands will become available, with many designers – including cult labels Vetements and Re-Done - set to present exclusive ranges. As part of Condé Nast, Style.com has access to all the magazine’s content and archives, meaning the imagery onsite is beautiful, and the copy is just as you would expect of Vogue: clever, on point, and oh-so-classy. The tech is clever too: sophisticated artificial intelligence means the website adapts to the individual customer, meaning not only can you buy from Style.com’s editorial content, but it also curates and suggests brands based on your browsing history. Style.com has tough competition: the world of luxury e-commerce is already populated by numerous authoritative brands, so it has to prove its USP in order to survive. Ultimately, however, whether it sinks or swims is left up to the customer – so go ahead, have a gander and decide for yourself.
look for this: geometric detailing and white accents are currently trending on Style.com
Stop the press: Condé Nast's e-commerce venture is open for business, and it's pretty swish... Instagram feed for a dose of Scandinavian cool.
Shoes, £300, Jamie Wei Huang Lipgloss, £39, R M S Beauty Earrings, £250, Uribe Coat, £699, Rejina Pyo all style.com duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Style.com Fashion Director, Yasmin Sewell
Ring, £2,615, Bibi van der Velden Boots, £639, J.W. Anderson Skirt, £349, Rejina Pyo all style.com duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
go to style.com are currently trending on Style.com
Topshop Unique A/W2016
first look amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
YELLOW VELVET
Celine Pre-Fall 2016
Fashion Radar
4. JUMPSUIT, £30, Zara, zara.com; 5. JACKET, £90, Mango, mango.com
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Valentino A/W2016
1. TROUSERS, £1,450, Celine, celine.com; 2. DRESS, £3,920, Valentino, louisaviaroma.com; 3. SHOES, £145, Topshop Unique, topshop.com
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it shouldn't work but it does: we're used to seeing velvet in its vampy, dark incarnation, but Celine, Valentino and Topshop Unique had other ideas for autumn 2016. Bright, shimmering - whether it's lemon or gold, we're having it...
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T
Getting Dressed
sleek, sexy and feminine - the LONG LEATHER COAT is enjoying a long-awaited RETURN TO FORM
the long leather coat is a GLOSSY COUNTERPOINT to all your casual wardrobe favourites - and there's a smörgåsbord of styles to choose from...
FALLING IN WITH THE LONG LEATHER COAT
LEATHER COATS AND CITY SLICKERS: Stockholm has a lesson for us on autumnal outerwear - and it's a game changer
he hitherto unthinkable has happened: I have found myself on the lookout for a long leather coat. I say ‘unthinkable’ because, for my generation, until very recently, a leather coat past a certain length sang mostly of Neo from the Matrix: OK for Keanu Reaves, but a slightly tragic look on anyone else. The style hasn’t been fully 'in' for years, so the only real exposure we’ve had to them was the movies – meaning the leather trench fared little better: either you looked like you were solving crimes or resembled a high class hooker on a murder spree. Either way, the long leather coat was not a style to be messed with: The best you could look was dated. But then Stockholm fashion week happened, and the Swedes had a (sartorially) important lesson for us: long leather coats are cool. And not just any leather coats: straight-cut, 90’s inspired, knee-length numbers. The kind of thing you once found in charity shops (good luck finding them now!) and thought ‘ugh – this was probably expensive and stylish once, but ugh.’ Those bad boys are having a resurgence. Paired with jeans or doubled up with leather skirts, they’re sleek, sexy, and more feminine than your average leather biker jacket. Safe to say the long leather coat is enjoying a whole new light. The trend hasn’t come out of nowhere: the A/W16 shows were rife with long leather coats: Jason Wu, Anthony Vaccarello, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Carven showed them, to name but a few. But It was Isabel Marant's long patent number styled with chunky knitwear and straight leg jeans that seems to have got the street style ball rolling: elsewhere her coats were oversize and definitively 80's, but this was closer fitting, providing a glossy counterpoint to the rest of the look. Rather than a sexy costume piece, here the long leather coat felt functional and casual. This is evidently where Stockholm's finest took their cues. Further proof - as if it were needed - that the long leather coat has arrived is the fact that, for the first time in years they're hitting the shelves in earnest (Hooray!). Often the more 'out there' styles we see on the catwalk don't feature in the designer's usual stockists because fashion buyers don't believe they'll sell. But the powers that be have determined that the long leather coat is a goer for this season, and as a result, there's a smörgåsbord of styles to choose from - from patent to faux leather, and every long leather coat incarnation in between. As to why the long leather coat is so 'now', there's some logic behind it: as summer fades and the fashion cognoscenti move away from skinny jeans, the role of lengthening and slimming the silhouette is falling more into the coat’s court - and this is where the long leather coat comes into its own. Add to that: recent years have seen the winter hero outerwear piece morph from the sheepskin aviator jacket to the longer, sheepskin coat, to the slimmer 1970’s –style suede coat. the long leather coat is the next logical step in the sequence. Its minimal 90’s lines feel cleaner – and more modern – than 70's coats, but the silhouette is familiar enough to make it an easy wardrobe update. Furthermore, the new leather length adds an extra dimension to the ongoing cropped trouser trend – to further play on proportion – meaning the long leather coat not only goes with, but actually accentuates and refreshes the clothes we've been wearing all year. It should be noted that not all long leather coats are created equal. An ankle length style won't be casual enough to carry off the youthful, laid-back looks of Isabel Marant and Stockholm's fashion set, while a belted leather trench should be handled with care: they still have the propensity to look overtly sexy, so unless you offset your trench by going full Gucci geek-chic, the key to nailing the trend is in the coat's looseness. A roomy, knee-length style works best, followed swiftly by a bum-length number. Once you've got the coat nailed, the rest of the look falls into place. The vibe to go for is 90's Parisian chic: style with minimalist, ladylike shoes or high shine boots, vintage-inspired skirts and jeans, and a classic tee or knitwear option. Basically, all things you already own. And the result? a slightly subversive look that's as cool as it is practical. Where do I sign up?
Isabel Marant AW16
Blogger Hannah Stefanson's collarless leather coat is cut to give a generous fit with dropped shoulders and cropped sleeves. BUY IT HERE B r: either you looked like you were solving crimes or resembled a high class hooker on a murder spree. Either way, the long leather coat was not a style to be messed with: The best you could look was dated. But then Stockholm fashion week happened, and the Swedes had a (sartorially) important lesson for us: long leather coats are cool. And not just any leather coats: straight-cut, 90’s inspired, knee-length numbers. The kind of thing you once found in charity shops (good luck finding them now!) and thought ‘ugh – this was probably expensive and stylish once, but ugh.’ Those bad boys are having a resurgence. Paired with jeans or doubled up with leather skirts, they’re sleek, sexy, and more feminine than your average leather biker jacket. Safe to say the long leather coat is enjoying a whole new light. The trend hasn’t come out of nowhere: the A/W16 shows were rife with long leather coats: Jason Wu, Anthony Vaccarello, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Carven showed them, to name but a few. But It was Isabel Marant's long patent number styled with chunky knitwear and straight leg jeans that seems to have got the street style ball rolling: elsewhere her coats were oversize and definitively 80's, but this was closer fitting, providing a glossy counterpoint to the rest of the look. Rather than a sexy costume piece, here the long leather coat felt functional and casual. This is evidently where Stockholm's finest took their cues. Further proof - as if it were needed - that the long leather coat has arrived is the fact that, for the first time in years they're hitting the shelves in earnest (Hooray!). Often the more 'out there' styles we see on the catwalk don't feature in the designer's usual stockists because fashion buyers don't believe they'll sell. But the powers that be have determined that the long leather coat is a goer for this season, and as a result, there's a smörgåsbord of styles to choose from - from patent to faux leather, and every long leather coat incarnation in between. As to why the long leather coat is so 'now', there's some logic behind it: as summer fades and the fashion cognoscenti move away from skinny jeans, the role of lengthening and slimming the silhouette is falling more into the coat’s court - and this is where the long leather coat comes into its own. Add to that: recent years have seen the winter hero outerwear piece morph from the sheepskin aviator jacket to the longer, sheepskin coat, to the slimmer 1970’s –style suede coat. the long leather coat is the next logical step in the sequence. Its minimal 90’s lines feel cleaner – and more modern – than 70's coats, but the silhouette is familiar enough to make it an easy wardrobe update. Furthermore, the new leather length adds an extra dimension to the ongoing cropped trouser trend – to further play on proportion – meaning the long leather coat not only goes with, but actually accentuates and refreshes the clothes we've been wearing all year. It should be noted that not all long leather coats are created equal. An ankle length style won't be casual enough to carry off the youthful, laid-back looks of Isabel Marant and Stockholm's fashion set, while a belted leather trench should be handled with care: they still have the propensity to look overtly sexy, so unless you offset your trench by going full Gucci geek-chic, the key to nailing the trend is in the coat's looseness. A roomy, knee-length style works best, followed swiftly by a bum-length number. Once you've got the coat nailed, the rest of the look falls into place. The vibe to go for is 90's Parisian chic: style with minimalist, ladylike shoes or high shine boots, vintage-inspired skirts and jeans, and a classic tee or knitwear option. Basically, all things you already own. And the result? a slightly subversive look that's as cool as it is practical. Where do I sign up?
FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: Coat, £830, Filippa K, filippa-k.com; Coat, £1,595, Joseph, harveynichols.com; Coat, £330, Pinko, harrods.com; Coat, £616, Wanda Nylon, farfetch.com; Coat, £3,450, Rochas, farfetch.com; Coat, £48 Pop Sick, marketplace.asos.com; Skirt, £370, Hugo Boss, hugoboss.com; Shoes, £50, Zara, zara.com; Sweater, £190, MaxMara Weekend, harrods.com; Jeans, £36, Levis, etsy.com; Shoes, £38, Zara, zara.com
If those black pointed shoes with fluffy soles look familiar, it's because they're from humble old Zara. Same for those white mid-heel courts. There's something about this season's leather coat that makes everything feel high-end. r: either you looked like you were solving crimes or resembled a high class hooker on a murder spree. Either way, the long leather coat was not a style to be messed with: The best you could look was dated. But then Stockholm fashion week happened, and the Swedes had a (sartorially) important lesson for us: long leather coats are cool. And not just any leather coats: straight-cut, 90’s inspired, knee-length numbers. The kind of thing you once found in charity shops (good luck finding them now!) and thought ‘ugh – this was probably expensive and stylish once, but ugh.’ Those bad boys are having a resurgence. Paired with jeans or doubled up with leather skirts, they’re sleek, sexy, and more feminine than your average leather biker jacket. Safe to say the long leather coat is enjoying a whole new light. The trend hasn’t come out of nowhere: the A/W16 shows were rife with long leather coats: Jason Wu, Anthony Vaccarello, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Carven showed them, to name but a few. But It was Isabel Marant's long patent number styled with chunky knitwear and straight leg jeans that seems to have got the street style ball rolling: elsewhere her coats were oversize and definitively 80's, but this was closer fitting, providing a glossy counterpoint to the rest of the look. Rather than a sexy costume piece, here the long leather coat felt functional and casual. This is evidently where Stockholm's finest took their cues. Further proof - as if it were needed - that the long leather coat has arrived is the fact that, for the first time in years they're hitting the shelves in earnest (Hooray!). Often the more 'out there' styles we see on the catwalk don't feature in the designer's usual stockists because fashion buyers don't believe they'll sell. But the powers that be have determined that the long leather coat is a goer for this season, and as a result, there's a smörgåsbord of styles to choose from - from patent to faux leather, and every long leather coat incarnation in between. As to why the long leather coat is so 'now', there's some logic behind it: as summer fades and the fashion cognoscenti move away from skinny jeans, the role of lengthening and slimming the silhouette is falling more into the coat’s court - and this is where the long leather coat comes into its own. Add to that: recent years have seen the winter hero outerwear piece morph from the sheepskin aviator jacket to the longer, sheepskin coat, to the slimmer 1970’s –style suede coat. the long leather coat is the next logical step in the sequence. Its minimal 90’s lines feel cleaner – and more modern – than 70's coats, but the silhouette is familiar enough to make it an easy wardrobe update. Furthermore, the new leather length adds an extra dimension to the ongoing cropped trouser trend – to further play on proportion – meaning the long leather coat not only goes with, but actually accentuates and refreshes the clothes we've been wearing all year. It should be noted that not all long leather coats are created equal. An ankle length style won't be casual enough to carry off the youthful, laid-back looks of Isabel Marant and Stockholm's fashion set, while a belted leather trench should be handled with care: they still have the propensity to look overtly sexy, so unless you offset your trench by going full Gucci geek-chic, the key to nailing the trend is in the coat's looseness. A roomy, knee-length style works best, followed swiftly by a bum-length number. Once you've got the coat nailed, the rest of the look falls into place. The vibe to go for is 90's Parisian chic: style with minimalist, ladylike shoes or high shine boots, vintage-inspired skirts and jeans, and a classic tee or knitwear option. Basically, all things you already own. And the result? a slightly subversive look that's as cool as it is practical. Where do I sign up?
THE STOCKHOLM SOLUTION
SPEND ON COAT, SAVE ON SHOES
THE COAT THAT LAUNCHED A THOUSAND STYLING TIPS
Fashion contributor for CHIC magazine, Ellen Claesson wears Twist & Tango's Evin leather coat over her shoulders with the belt removed to keep it loose. BUY IT HERE r: either you looked like you were solving crimes or resembled a high class hooker on a murder spree. Either way, the long leather coat was not a style to be messed with: The best you could look was dated. But then Stockholm fashion week happened, and the Swedes had a (sartorially) important lesson for us: long leather coats are cool. And not just any leather coats: straight-cut, 90’s inspired, knee-length numbers. The kind of thing you once found in charity shops (good luck finding them now!) and thought ‘ugh – this was probably expensive and stylish once, but ugh.’ Those bad boys are having a resurgence. Paired with jeans or doubled up with leather skirts, they’re sleek, sexy, and more feminine than your average leather biker jacket. Safe to say the long leather coat is enjoying a whole new light. The trend hasn’t come out of nowhere: the A/W16 shows were rife with long leather coats: Jason Wu, Anthony Vaccarello, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Carven showed them, to name but a few. But It was Isabel Marant's long patent number styled with chunky knitwear and straight leg jeans that seems to have got the street style ball rolling: elsewhere her coats were oversize and definitively 80's, but this was closer fitting, providing a glossy counterpoint to the rest of the look. Rather than a sexy costume piece, here the long leather coat felt functional and casual. This is evidently where Stockholm's finest took their cues. Further proof - as if it were needed - that the long leather coat has arrived is the fact that, for the first time in years they're hitting the shelves in earnest (Hooray!). Often the more 'out there' styles we see on the catwalk don't feature in the designer's usual stockists because fashion buyers don't believe they'll sell. But the powers that be have determined that the long leather coat is a goer for this season, and as a result, there's a smörgåsbord of styles to choose from - from patent to faux leather, and every long leather coat incarnation in between. As to why the long leather coat is so 'now', there's some logic behind it: as summer fades and the fashion cognoscenti move away from skinny jeans, the role of lengthening and slimming the silhouette is falling more into the coat’s court - and this is where the long leather coat comes into its own. Add to that: recent years have seen the winter hero outerwear piece morph from the sheepskin aviator jacket to the longer, sheepskin coat, to the slimmer 1970’s –style suede coat. the long leather coat is the next logical step in the sequence. Its minimal 90’s lines feel cleaner – and more modern – than 70's coats, but the silhouette is familiar enough to make it an easy wardrobe update. Furthermore, the new leather length adds an extra dimension to the ongoing cropped trouser trend – to further play on proportion – meaning the long leather coat not only goes with, but actually accentuates and refreshes the clothes we've been wearing all year. It should be noted that not all long leather coats are created equal. An ankle length style won't be casual enough to carry off the youthful, laid-back looks of Isabel Marant and Stockholm's fashion set, while a belted leather trench should be handled with care: they still have the propensity to look overtly sexy, so unless you offset your trench by going full Gucci geek-chic, the key to nailing the trend is in the coat's looseness. A roomy, knee-length style works best, followed swiftly by a bum-length number. Once you've got the coat nailed, the rest of the look falls into place. The vibe to go for is 90's Parisian chic: style with minimalist, ladylike shoes or high shine boots, vintage-inspired skirts and jeans, and a classic tee or knitwear option. Basically, all things you already own. And the result? a slightly subversive look that's as cool as it is practical. Where do I sign up?
Gone are the sci-fi inferences: this season's LOOSE, LAID-BACK COAT is casual, minimal, a tiny bit subversive - but crucially - cool. Nail the coat and the rest of the look FALLS INTO PLACE...
the IG follow: @ellenclaesson
Topshop Unique AW16
Carven AW16
Can PRET-A-PORTER take on the PORTAGE - and win?
H
GONE CANOEING:
ulking a heavy barrel of food over the slippery terrain that formed the gap between two of the most beautiful, isolated lakes I’d seen in my life, I briefly considered how strange my situation would seem had I described it to myself a year ago. It was hot, I was getting eaten by mosquitos that paid no heed to the bug spray I’d doused myself in, I hadn’t seen my reflection in the best part of a week and I was covered in mud. My phone was two hours’ drive away and I had no idea what was going on in the world other than in the small pocket of lakes and Canadian wilderness that was my temporary home. And I was having the time of my life. You don’t need me to tell you that Canada is big, but it’s hard to explain how beautiful it is. My boyfriend and I had travelled from London to Toronto before driving north to Thunder Bay, where we were picked up by our outfitter and driven to a drop off point on the border of Quetico Provincial Park. Quetico is one of the most well preserved of Ontario’s wilderness areas, known for its scenic lakes and perfect canoeing. What isn’t immediately obvious from Google, however, is that you can go for days there without seeing another person other than those you came with (in our case, just my boyfriend and me). It’s extraordinarily quiet, stunningly beautiful and unlike anything I had experienced before. The landscape stretches out wide and open, with vast skies and fat, empty lakes where the only signs of life were the birds, beavers and the odd moose. And then, of course, there’s the canoeing. Our outfitter provided us with a canoe, paddles, two barrels of food, a tent, sleeping mats (we already had a sleeping bag) and cooking equipment, which we bundled along with our clothes into waterproof bags. Every morning we would disassemble our tent, pack up our things and convey them to the canoe, clamber in and set off over the water in the direction of a particular island or campsite that would become our next temporary home. I had been warned that the hours of canoeing would involve arm muscle that I didn’t have, and this was true: by the third day, I was sore. And there was also a lot of sun, which necessitated an extraordinary amount of sun cream – and one particularly unattractive hat. But these things actually worked well together: my gripe about poolside holidays is that I love to be out and about doing something, but often it’s too hot to do anything other than stay by the water. In a canoe you are outside all the time, obviously by the water, but you’re constantly engaged. It’s physical and tiring, but also methodical and easy to relax into. You tell each other stories or discuss the world and all its problems while watching as one beautiful view morphs into another, and locations you’d pinpointed on maps turn into islands with smooth, sloping rocks, or meandering reaches dotted with lily pads. Every new place had something different to offer, from clear, almost cartoon-like echoes across a bay to wide, uninterrupted views of the sun setting over the trees. You can’t take much in the way of clothes with you – and nor, I found, would you want to. There is so much you have to carry (read: tent, pots and pans, and from time to time the canoe itself) that you quickly get tired of all the extras. For me it was an exercise in working out just how little I could live with. The lake water is clean enough to drink straight from the boat, so we would ‘shower’ by going for a swim and take our clothes with us to scrub with biodegradable soap and leave to dry on the rocks. So everything I took really had to earn its place: functionality was a prerequisite; durability was key. I made some purchases before the trip with an eye to fashion (if I can re-purpose my acquisitions as fashionable casual wear post-holiday, doesn’t that also improve its functionality?), but there were some items for which I had to stray off the fashion radar. I mean, I bought crocs. Can fashion exist in a vacuum? Quetico, with its vast expanses of quiet, was as close as I had got to this. Rose & co. argue that young consumers who buy more fashionable clothing are more likely to be easily influenced by other people, and contrast this group with those who buy clothes instead purely for their function; who they determined to have more independence in judgment. By this argument, without the decisions we make based on the opinions of others, fashion would not have a market. In somewhere like Quetico, where my only audience was my boyfriend and the wildlife, fashion would be redundant. Fortunately, for me at least, this is not true. The above argument is flawed because it's too simplistic: it pits aesthetic design against functionality, and suggests that fashionable clothes are created completely independently of how the garment performs in real life. While in the past, fashionable women's styles necessitated discomfort (read: corsets, feet binding etc), since the twentieth century, comfort and physical performance have been important factors in the ethos behind fashion. Ergo Coco Chanel and her concept of ease of movement, and today it is visible in the increasing use of technical fabrics and design concepts correlating with sportswear. This means that, while there are some garment requirements of canoeing that are just too niche for mainstream fashion, there are other areas where fashionable clothing, and their considerations of durability, fit and comfort in addition to aesthetics, were actually just the ticket. Did I buy these clothes just because they were fashionable? No. Fashion is not a dictatorship, it is a response to our wants and needs. I bought them because I liked the design and thought they would suit my requirements, as I believe most fashion consumers do - although perhaps on a less extreme scale. If anything, I have fashion to thank: it gave me more choice. Canoeing in the wilderness is not easy, but it's unforgettable - and fun. It's the ultimate escape from the small worries and hyper connectivity that form the pattern of everyday life. For both myself, physically, and my wardrobe, it posed an unprecedented challenge. But I'd say that both of us more than succeeded.
Fashion IN ACTION
The HARDWARE
Chloe may have made quarter-zip sports jumpers a thing, but fleece is still pretty much off the fashion menu- for now. And it is a canoeing necessity as the temperature cools in the evening. The North Face is your best bet: a technical brand that wont let you down.
The LAYERS
Polarized sunglasses were the necessity, but my mirrored shades turned out to be a stroke of genius. Without a mirror, how else to check your suncream is properly rubbed in? Pick sunglasses without nose grips - unless you want to be forever detangling them from your hair.
The UNMENTIONABLES
The GEAR
Derek Lam S/S16
For my recently pierced second earlobe, going earring-less was not an option. Tiny hoops are your best hope: comfortable to sleep in and small enough not to get in the way. On multiple peircings it channels grown-up grunge. Unfussy, non-catching jewellery was the order of the day here. Luckily, Monica Vinader had the answer.
ANTICLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Trainers, £95, Nike, nike.com; Trainers, £190, Hogan Rebel, theluxer.com; Jumper, £40, The North Face, blacks.co.uk; Trousers, £42, Nike, nike.com; Flip flops, £21, Crocs, styletread.com; Sunglasses, £170, Finlay & Co., silkfred.com; Shirt, £12, Choies, choies.com; Top, £8, Topshop, topshop.com; Shorts, £15.99, Zara, zara.com; Bracelet, £110, Monica Vinader, saksfifthavenue.com; Earrings, £5, Weekday, weekday.com
Technical fabrics such as neoprene have crept into fashion in the past couple of years, meaning amphibious footwear has taken a turn for the stylish, and a supportive bikini no longer equals awkward padding but bright colours and comfortable crochet straps. Balenciaga, Nike and Kiini are the brands to thank, but they've paved the way for more garments that work hard and play hard. Great news for canoe-ists, I found.
The PACKING LIST tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
FASHION FINDS: what to take and where to get it elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
PLUS: dig out these favourites sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Performance brands Nike and Croc also earnt their place in the canoe: Flip flops are not known for their suitablity for slippy boats. Crocs had the grippy answer. And Nike's quick drying dri fit range was ideal when everything I owned got wet.
You know those floppy hats with a brim all the way round that your dad/grandpa would occasionally dig out in the summer? Turns out they're useful. They just don't have a place in polite society yet.
When it came to clothing, loose, breathable layers worked best. Shorts that give plenty of movement were key (head to Nike or Zara), and a crop top paired with a lightweight shirt meant that regulating my cover to shade myself from the sun or cool off was simple.
The TREND
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Shoes, £550, Sanayi313, net-a-porter.com; Skirt, £29, Topshop, topshop.com; Top, £195, Victoria by Victoria Beckham, avenue32.com; Top, £375, Osman Hilma, matchesfashion.com; Shoes, £520, Francesco Russo, matchesfashion.com; Jeans, £269, RE/DONE, stylebop.com; Top, £650, Roksanda matchesfashion.com
BIG SLEEVE
THE WARDROBE +1
What to get and where to get it: sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Ellery S/S16 Rosie Assoulin S/S16
P
The
ro tip: if you want to update your look without completely overhauling your wardrobe, a neutral top with oversize sleeves is your best friend. There’s something romantic about a top with sumptuous sleeves: whether it’s a roomy bell shape or a girly ruffle, it’s a chic way to add drama without getting too fussy. The trend was all over the Spring/Summer 2016 catwalks, and Ellery’s sophisticated, rippling designs have become favourites among the fashion set. Pair with classic denim pieces and sleek, understated footwear to channel a laid-back look that’s minimum input, maximum statement.
ith fashion month fast approaching and the relaunch of Style.com imminent, there's one voice of fashion authority whose perspective holds a distinct weight. Tim Blanks is no stranger to the changes facing the fashion industry: last year, he became Editor-at-Large of The Business of Fashion after the previous incarnation of Style.com, the destination for every fashion critic worth their salt, was acquired by Condé Nast to become an e-commerce site. Blanks' unerringly insightful commentary on the biggest fashion shows is fashion legend, but while he's a master at shining a light on the fashion industry, he's not one for talking about himself. It was therefore a particular stroke of luck that meant I was able to catch the then Style.com Editor-at-Large in conversation last year. While his opinion on all things fashion is available to all on BoF, there were some things about one of the most famous fashion journalists out there that I was keen to know. Here are a collection of Tim Blanks original (Trade Mark pending) opinions you won't get anywhere else: On starting as a fashion outsider: ‘There was no fashion in New Zealand [where I grew up]. The first exposure I had to fashion was Yves Saint Laurent ties for men. It seemed like fashion was happening everywhere I wasn’t. Music became my escape… my sense of what style is evolved out of that.’ ‘I came to London at the end of punk rock. I mixed it all up. I wasn’t allowed into Singapore because I had this dyed hair. Fashion hadn’t come into my life at that point… fashion came in after that.’ ‘I was already innately impressed by what went into fashion; the sheer amount of work that went in. All you had to do was respect what they did…. I never thought of myself as a fashion person – I had an outsider’s point of view… and it seemed really unfair how little appreciation there was for this industry.’ On how fashion shows have changed: ‘The first show I saw in Paris was the Yves Saint Laurent couture show when he did the Picasso doves… it was so extraordinary. Back then there would be 160 outfits. Nowadays the shows are over and done so quickly; back then it would last at least an hour. You realise how posterity distills that show into five looks, but there were another 60 in the show – or more! I wouldn’t be able to sit through that show now.’ ‘Nowadays it’s more concise. You don’t have that luxury now. You need to know what you want to say, to be concise – which is never a bad thing… it’s more intense, which is ultimately more demanding.’ ‘Fashion never had serious critics because it was never taken seriously. Now that canon’s beginning to be developed. I would love to know what history will say about this decade. I find more and more people are interested in the history of fashion – they want to know what that moment was.’ On fashion journalism: ‘I used to write a lot of shorter reviews and a lot more in a day than I do now. I've started to write longer pieces; I found more to say because I wrote more. I wanted something which was a good read. I’ve got more involved in how it was and why it was.’ ‘Saying ‘better than’ is a terrible dead end. You have to be open all the time. I’m troubled by how closed people are when they approach journalism. I’m happier to contextualize than criticise – who am I to do that? Someone spent six months doing this thing, making this collection. I’ve been sitting here for ten minutes.’ ‘You are either a good writer or you’re not. The most important thing is curiosity. Life is so endlessly curious… I could spend days and days starting from just one word… the acquisition of knowledge is like being in the best library in the world.’ ‘It’s not just going to the show room and poking through a rack – I’m writing about the show. That’s where the narrative is; that’s where the emotion is. Curiosity, emotion and narrative – that’s what designers have given me and what I want to give back. [If a designer doesn’t like what I’ve written] I hope they’re professional enough to realise I’m just doing my job.’ On where fashion is now: ‘The variety in British designers is so extraordinary – there’s no cookie-cutter. In London, designers are young… it’s something to do with being an island race – you see the same thing in Japan. They have a funny, umbilical connection.’ ‘More and more designers talk about craft – in a hundred years we’ll be knitting our own things. I mean, Burberry trench coats are handmade. That sort of thing matters now.’ ‘The whole notion of heritage is strange. Do you really care that the company that made your clothes is a hundred years old? Why with these old labels – why is there money still put into them? You can flag these horses, but after a while it’s like why? What does it mean to anybody?’ [I posed that perhaps the trouble with older fashion brands is that, when the founding designer is gone, the label has to readdress its relationship with itself; to work out what makes it authentic – in terms of design and brand identity] : 'Authenticity - that's the word I was looking for. The relationship between the designs and the identity of the label is so much more complicated when the label is named after the designer. What is Chanel without Gabrielle Chanel? But, really, do Chanel customers still care about that founding designer? I think Karl [Lagerfeld] has done an incredible job of turning it into something that's relevant now.' [We also talked about the difference between classic pieces and statement purchases like the apple watch]: 'What makes something timeless, and what makes something date quickly? When it comes to technology especially, these are inherently transient: the next, newer edition will always be better because the tech will always be improving. But there’s something about the original in fashion – the pure article, the one that is always referenced every time a new designer tries to imitate the style – that crystallises it and makes it last.' 'Perhaps that’s because that is where fashion works like art - it's about originality and the ability to visually reference other people to add to its meaning.' You can say what you like about Tim Blanks, but the man knows a thing or two about fashion.
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Perceptive, witty and veracious, TIM BLANKS' criticism sets the fashion conversation. But what's he like in real life? rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Fashion voices
FILLING IN TIM BLANKS
GUCCI sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
"Curiosity, emotion and narrative- that's what fashion designers have given me and what I want to give back." duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
LOEWE sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
"Michele knows just how to seductively spike the sweet with the sour"
IN TIM'S WORDS sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
"Anderson has lightened Loewe, roughened it, added sensuality, sunlight, movement and humour"
READ TIM'S WORK ON THE BUSINESS OF FASHION
Bag, £1,220, Saint Laurent, selfridges.com; Bag, £460, Annie Bing, anniebing.com; Bag, £1,428, Prada, saksfifthavenue.com
Not just any old burgundy evening bag: a luscious, stroke-able, velvet burgundy evening bag. Velvet is coming in thick and fast for the autumn, but there's something about the wine colour with gold hardware that's just irresistible. Get in there early to put a romantic- meets-gothic spin on your look.
Pendant, £160, Catherine Zoraida, wolfandbadger.com; Necklace, £230, Belk, belk.com; Earrings, £127, Chupi , notonthehighstreet.com; Bangle, £84, Gag & Lou, wolfandbadger.com; Earrings, £190, Lulu Frost, lulufrost.com
the IG follow: @adenorah
Cropped trouser styles are set to be a big-hitter for the end of summer turning early autumn: less up-front leggy than shorts or culottes, but the flash of ankle is more optimistic for sun than a full length cut. Not sure how to tackle it? Look no further than this season's graphic t shirt: lettering plays a big role here, so look for something crisp and fresh-from-the-iron. Pair with classic ladylike pumps for a grown-up take on grunge.
look for this: Rock Stars consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: T shirt, £32, Feather Hearts, featherhearts.com; T shirt, £144, Carven, thecorner.com; Trousers, £510, The Row, matchesfashion.com; Trousers, £2,640, Christopher Kane, modaoperandi.com; Shoes, £1,165, Chanel, vestiairecollective.com; Shoes, £38, Zara, zara.com; T shirt, £112, Courreges, farfetch.com
Constellation jewellery is where astronomy gets the gold star treatment. Map the night sky with designs from Lulu Frost and Chupi, or achieve a more subtle look with Gag & Lou. Not into science? plump for astrology instead with bold, zodiac-inspired pieces by Belk.
the T-shirt Trio consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
add to basket: burgundy evening bag , sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Boots, £630, Prada, barneys.com; Boots, £495, Tabitha Simmons, matchesfashion.com; Boots, £920, Sacai farfetch.com
the Shirt-Skirt consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
New label Attribute has launched for A/W16 with a campaign featuring supermodel Erin Wasson. The directional London-based label comes from a team with provenance: Topshop Unique, All Saints and Liberty. Find it online or on Shoreditch’s Redchurch Street.
FROM TOP: Skirt, £478, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania, farfetch.com; Skirt, £28, Romwe, romwe.com; Skirt, £1,228, Faith Connexion, farfetch.com; Jumper, £273, Diane von Furstenberg, mytheresa.com; Skirt, £531, Jacquemus, farfetch.com; Shoes, £815, Stella Mccartney, lanecrawford.com
Louis Vuitton AW16
On yer hike! , consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
shop alert
Warehouse is back this autumn with a new logo and - more importantly - a new brand positioning. It's all thanks to new head designer Emma Cook and brand consultant Alisdair Willis. Expect to see fashion-forward designs with a focus on the esoteric and 'British un-self-consciousness'. The high street wont know what's hit it.
Forget street style: If Muccia Prada, Tabitha Simmons and Sacai's Chitose Abe are to be believed, the next place to photograph your garms is up a hill. Or in a field - or anywhere with a healthy dose of mud. Hiking boots have been exalted from their camping shop roots and are now firmly on the fashion pedestal. As they should be: there's nothing like them for pulling this season's tough-girl looks together.
Menswear re-appropriated as women's styles has always been sexy: think oversize shirts as dresses, or Francoise Hardy in Yves Saint Laurent's le smoking. The shirt-skirt comes from the same genus, but the slouchy knot feels slightly punk. What's not to like?
POSH PICKS
This season, the SLOANE RANGER has polished up her act
Behind the Trend
e Brits have an ambivalent attitude towards preppy. For many, the term is synonymous with red trousers, expensive schools, university “stash”, and some sort of American-youth, old-school-British crossover where fashion has stood still for decades (incidentally, if styles never change, can we call it fashion?). It’s the spiritual homeland of the US' Abercrombie & Fitch and Britain's Jack Wills, where the stripes on oxford shirts are always vertical, and rugby shirts always horizontal, and never the other way round. The nature of preppy is that, to a certain extent, the styles never go out of fashion, per se. But the brands that we associate with them certainly do, as the diminishing influence of Abercrombie and Jack Wills show. The latter grew exponentially in the mid to late ‘00’s, following a marketing strategy that involved gifting samples to social influencers at Britain’s more selective universities. Catalogues depicting weekends spent with friends at large country houses in varying degrees of undress were churned out; brand ambassadors (recruited via connections at public school) at ski resorts and upmarket seaside towns followed. In his book, Elites, Race and Nationhood: The Branded Gentry, Daniel Smith explores how the growth in popularity of Jack Wills coincided with the entry of large numbers of students from widening participation backgrounds into Britain’s Russell Group universities in the ‘00s. Students from lower income backgrounds, he explains, were mingling with the Jack-Wills-target-customer group, and the result was that for this new market, buying Jack Wills clothes became a way of “buying into the idea of university” – masking their roots to join a sartorial in-crowd, for whom a university education was more of a given. But something soured. Perhaps a sort of critical mass was reached, where the numbers of Smith's would-be aspirational purchasers grew to such an extent that it was no longer necessary to wear Jack Wills to 'fit in' with the university 'norm' - so the wearers diminished, resulting in a group marked sartorially as ripe for gentle class-related ribbing. Or perhaps the adoption of JW styles by the mainstream pushed the public school-ers to abandon it for more traditional brands as a means of differentiation. Then again, maybe these Jack Wills wearers were destined to head towards more mature brands anyway, but the decline in popularity had to do with how the age group below, and how their influences from Instagram and social hyper-connectivity led them to ignore the retailer as passé in favour, consciously or subconsciously, of something more akin to the catwalks of Paris and Milan. Or perhaps everyone just got bored of the same old branded sports kit coming out every season. It's hard to say. Why is this relevant now? Well, for one, because fashion is beginning to turn its face towards the preppy set again thanks to Mitford sisters-esque designs at fashion leader Gucci, which looked to its archive classics for inspiration. Similarly, Mulberry (which, like the preppy look itself, has also suffered some years in the fashion wilderness) is back with a new designer and some truly fabulous, intelligent archive-plundering designs. The Bayswater, hitherto a mumsy bag synonymous with the Home Counties, has been re-jigged to reinstate its status as a smart, contemporary classic. And that's before we get to the reversible Delphie, which has to be one of the most intelligently designed, flexible new bags on the luxury market. If there is anything that differentiates this new wave of preppy then, it's that it's a little more intelligent. Rather than naively reconstituting every old-school sartorial (or accessorial?) tradition, these brands have taken a more refined view of the archives. Gucci is geek-chic rather than overtly sexy. The British preppy style, when invoked, is refined down to cable knits, cardigans, cricket jumpers, brogues, oxfords and vintage florals. Mulberry has whittled down branding to focus on the technical construction of design. There's a certain whiff of leather-bound books and oak-paneled libraries about this trend: where Jack Wills was Russell Group, this preppy incarnation is more Oxbridge. Of course it’s unfair to pit Jack Wills against the likes of Gucci. One is a retailer launched in Salcome in 1999; the other is a multibillion-dollar giant, one of the oldest and best-known fashion houses in the world. Their target markets (and their retail price) reflect this. However, somewhat ironically, the difference between the preppy trend in Jack Wills’ heyday and its reincarnation in 2016 is that the style is now far more inclusive. Gucci’s prominence makes it fairly certain that preppy styles will become increasingly available throughout the entire fashion sector. Designers using their archives in this way lead by example, rather than forming an exclusive club: branding, where invoked, is either old-school and timeless- suggestive of heirlooms, or are ironic and almost self-depreciating, showing a self-awareness in design that undermines the dictatorship of traditional branding. The example given by high fashion preppy in 2016 is more of a holistic attitude towards dressing rather than one specific look, meaning you don’t necessarily have to buy exclusively these designers to ‘do’ the trend. It certainly helps to own some Gucci, but an awareness of design - an ability to view clothes in the same way as the designer, rather than just buy from them- opens up a world of vintage alternatives that nail the look just as deftly. So, what’s the take away line? Well, um… to nail the next big - and crucially, inclusive - preppy trend, dress like you went to Oxbridge. Hmmm... Perhaps that theory needs some work.
THE NEW PREPPY
Gucci A/W16 Mulberry Pre-Fall 16
Jumper, £950, The Elder Statesman, net-a-porter.com; Belt, £805, Gucci, gucci.com; Skirt, £230, Christian Dior, 1stdibs.com; Shoes, £99, Frye, gilt.com; Bag, £476, Mulberry, mulberry.com; Jumper, £198, Paule Ka , vestiairecollective.com
Shirt, £139, Zadig & Voltaire, stylebop.com; Shoes, £300, Chloe, farfetch.com; Skirt, £295, Gucci, italist.com; Cardigan, £420, Marni, net-a-porter.com
Diane von Furstenberg S/S16
'Fashion is about newness and change, getting excited about something that feels fresh. Colour is an amazing way to do that. I think people are a lot braver than they used to be when it comes to wearing colour.'
Diane von Furstenberg
'What people want from me are considered, beautiful textiles and well-cut garments.'
JONATHAN SAUNDERS has hopped across the pond to design for DIANE VON FURSTENBERG - & it's a match made in heaven...
'Good design is total harmony. There's no better designer than nature—if you look at a branch or a leaf, it's perfect. It's all function. Art is different. It's about emotion.'
Diane von Furstenberg PRE FALL16
Jonathan Saunders S/S16
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''I think the word effortless is very important. I think that that creates an ease and a confidence, because I think there's nothing more beautiful than a woman who's confident.'
Diane von Furstenberg A/W16
ews just in: British designer and Vogue Fashion Fund winner Jonathan Saunders has been announced as the new chief creative officer at Diane von Furstenberg. Saunders set up his own label 12 years ago, and was met with critical and commercial success. By 2012, Saunders had expanded his range to include menswear and inter-season collections – despite the pressures of recession, and a permanent staff of just nine. However, the SS16 collection was his last for the label, which closed its doors at the end of last year. Reviewing that last collection in light of this news, it’s easy to see why Saunders is such a good fit for the DVF brand. Saunders has made a name for himself with his ability to play with prints and expertise in sleek, flattering dresses, both central to the DVF fashion philosophy. His last collection even featured wrap dresses, which are synonymous with DVF’s prominence in the 1970’s. The lady even said it herself: speaking about Saunders’ appointment, Diane von Furstenberg explained, “Jonathan’s extraordinary talent for colours and prints, his effortless designs, and his desire to make women feel beautiful make him the perfect creative force to lead DVF into the future.” To highlight the similarities between Diane von Furstenberg and Jonathan Saunders’ attitudes and approach, we've collected quotes from the designers. See if you can guess who said what.
FREESTYLE WRAP
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'I understand fabric very well. And I understand colour very well, and print and shapes.'
'The woman's point of view tends to be a more practical one.'
Jonathan Saunders
‘As you get older you become more humble; you listen to your customer and get to know her and what she wants.’
7
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‘You realise, "OK, this thing that I've created, how are you going to wear it, what are you going to wear it with?" '
6
'We know it feels great and lets you get on with your day, and we care about that.'
‘At the end of the day we are fashion designers, not artists, and we provide a product for our customers.'
ANSWERS 1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG 2. JONATHAN SAUNDERS 3. DVF 4. SAUNDERS 5. DVF 6. DVF 7. SAUNDERS 8. DVF 9. SAUNDERS 10. SAUNDERS
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ISABEL MARANT
Time to buy:
Clockwise from top: Cabella blouse, £269, Isabel Marant Etoile, Gold and feather bracelet, £385, Leather skirt, £1085, and Gold and leather earrings, £234, alll Isabel Marant, Cotton skirt, £52, Isabel Marant Etoile, Suede boots, £435, Isabel Marant, Cotton shirt, £100, Isabel Marant Etoile
Long Term Investments: Look for ethnic-inspired prints, flowing blouses, jewellery with unusual textures, butter-soft leather and shoes with a hidden heel.
If you're finding yourself gravitating towards peasant smocks and metallics, you're right on the money - in more ways than one...
Isabel Marant, the French fashion designer whose attitude towards personal style is synonymous with her namesake label, and hitherto, owner of said label is reportedly looking to sell a majority stake in her design house. This comes days after the revelation that Balmain, another French fashion house, was bought by Qatari company Mayhoola, also the owner of Valentino. Like many fashion houses named for their founding designer, the appeal of the Marant brand is very much connected to the personality of the said designer. Isabel Marant often designs for herself, and is a great spokesperson for her label; at the recent Vogue 100 Festival in London she gave a talk on Parisian style, discussing the insouciance and eclecticism that encapsulates both our idea of modern Parisian dressing and the Isabel Marant brand. To hear the designer speak is to understand her designs, and there’s no doubt that Isabel Marant is cool – confident, intelligent, slightly outspoken, and humorous. The question is, of course, whether this shift in ownership means that Marant will take a step back from her label. When personal vision is so essential to the integrity of the brand, would an additional managerial voice cloud its identity? Reassurance is the message of the day for Marant: speaking to WWD, Managing Director Sophie Duruflé described the decision thus: “We have been growing this company… in a very spontaneous, natural and sincere manner. We wanted to be accompanied by people who have the same vision as us, with a more strategic vision and skills that we slightly lack today.” It is also worth noting that in contrast to the sale of Balmain to a Qatari serial-fashion investor, Isabel Marant is to become the sole fashion label within the portfolio of Montefiore, a French investment fund. When French-ness and individuality are so central to the identity of the fashion house, it should come as a relief that the management will share that same approach. The change we can predict, however, will be growth. Isabel Marant is currently valued at an estimated 300 million euro, with an annual turnover of 130 milion euro – 80% of which is recorded overseas. The additional funding would allow the brand to accelerate development, capitalizing on the export on that eclecticism and indefinable French-ness that makes the brand so desirable. This all comes at an exciting time for the label, which has seen its Spring/Summer 2016 designs – including Mexican-inspired blouses and silver trousers – make waves on the fashion radar on a scale comparable with its bestselling wedge trainers of 2013 – trainers that are still feeling their ripple effect on street style three years on. When you consider that, despite Vogue et al’s prediction that 2016 would see the demise of the skinny jean, the enduring appeal of Marant’s perennially leggy silhouette is especially impressive. So what does all this mean for the fashion aficionado? This writer would suggest that the Montefiore investment is a large-scale reflection of what the Isabel Marant customer already knows to be true: that the designs have legs. Invest in Isabel Marant and Isabel Marant Etoile Spring/Summer 2016: it’s a good vintage, and quite literally, it’s a good investment.
Isabel Marant SS16, Isabel Marant SS16 campaign
Alexander Wang SS16 Chloe SS16
how to do it: think not 'festival fashion': just fashion – adapted for the mud. Feel free to take inspiration from the catwalks: Chloe and Alexander Wang Spring/Summer16 is as good a place to start as any. Don't make any sartorial decisions you wouldn't on any other day out in the country: if you'd rather leave the designer prices for another day with less mud, hit Depop . There's no shame: all the cool kids are doing it.
Ditch the flower crown: festival dressing just got cool again
In the wake of Glastonbury, if there’s one thing that can be learned from the fashion set, it’s that much decried 'festival fashion' is dead in the water. It won't be missed. There’s nothing that spells the death knell for a trend like its adoption by multitudes of festival-goers doused in glitter and plopped into squeaky clean wellingtons that haven’t seen the light of day since the last year’s celebrations. Festival 'fashion' (inverted commas entirely necessary) is embarrassing because it is at odds with the festival experience: true festivals are muddy, smelly, sodden, drunken and off-the-grid. Festival fashion, spawned by sun-drenched Instagram posts of Coachella, is the polar opposite. Dressing for a real festival should pay heed to the genuine threat of weather, sleeplessness, the lack of showering and possibility that you will come home caked in mud and beer and god knows what else. Cheesecloth and espadrilles won't cut it. Granted, Alexa Chung’s vinyl trousers may be impossible for the average person to wiggle into in a tent. But the distinct lack of festival dressing (read: dressing in a manner that would suggest mild insanity on other weekend spent in the countryside) does spell the end for poncy flower crowns and fringes, which can only be a good thing. And it comes at a time when attitudes towards festival gear is changing: shifts in technology and the overexposure of 'festival fashion' have tipped its crucial market towards a different approach. For the seasoned festival-goer, it has always been about digging out the ol’ trustworthies, plus the odd useful addition from the normal casual wardrobe. For millennials, however, this year has seen the high street forsaken in favour of second hand and vintage gear from sites like Depop. The summer sales rails are packed full of useless crochet and lame multicolour crop tops - and not just because the weather has been underwhelming. Infinitely more practical and desirable, a 90’s era Tommy Hilfiger windbreaker (with hood) has the provenance and fleck of fashion history that a Topshop see-through glitter mac just cannot stand up to. It’s an authentic article for an authentic experience, designed not with festivals specifically in mind, but for general life and genuine function. Tellingly, Depop, a marketplace that functions like a social network, shares many design features with Instagram, the original trigger for festival-related consumption that the high street was previously able to market. What millenials increasingly look for is authenticity, however: where Depop encourages a dialogue between seller and buyer and responds to its users' search patterns, something the high street cannot offer. The increasing hyperconnectivity of millennials means not only are they aware and skeptical of marketing, but styles and demands develop at a breakneck pace. Inevitably, so-called 'festival fashion' loses its edge. So, the clothes you really should buy for the festival season, rather than the ones the high street advises? A fleece, a waterproof, cotton t shirts, a decent hat for the possible sun, sunglasses that won’t get caught in your hair, and for god's sake, NO DUNGAREES (portaloos! Hello!?) Here’s our selection of the best.
FIELD NOTES
Painted leather bag, £50, Vintage hat, £20, Vintage windbreaker, £10, Cowboy boots, £60, and Shearling jacket, £50 all Depop. Silver earrings £95, Trouva, Jeans £505, and Backpack, £1,070 both Saint Laurent, Bandana, £3.99 New Look, Shearling jacket, £1,595, Coach, Vintage hat, £16.99 and Leather jacket, £130 both Depop.
Job Spec: Christian Dior head designer
This role entails designing collections and some accessories, producing six fashion shows a year, giving interviews and representing the brand at events. Applicants must be able to grow business after sales faltered following the terrorist attacks in Paris and Brussels and a dip in demand in key Asian markets. The successful candidate must be charismatic, current, a good spokesperson for the brand, but also content with a relatively inflexible role. Applicants need to have an all-encompassing vision, but the successful candidate is not required to apply their vision to all sectors. The new designer must NOT change Dior boutiques; make major alterations to the Lady Dior handbag or mess with the current advertising for Dior perfume or beauty – which account for the bulk of Dior’s sales. The same must be able to authentically balance Dior’s titanic heritage with an original creative vision to create fashion designs that seduce a wide spectrum of Dior clientele globally. You’ve got to be modern and you’ve got to be good. However, when we say ‘modern’ we mean preferably not minimalist or too intellectual in design – Simons did that already (with massive commercial and critical success) but shareholders are not sure it sits with our more flamboyant image. Think of something else. On that subject – applicants must be a proven quantity, with concrete critical and commercial success already behind them – in the current turbulent climate, shareholders prefer not to take unnecessary risks. Applicants must be able to work for over a year; designers at rival fashion houses are required to check current contractual terms before application. Also, we don’t fancy going through the hiring process again. Applicants will be taken into account alongside a confirmed shortlist including internal applicants and Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, who would become the first female designer at the helm at Dior if she were to accept the role. A word of advice: if at any point management send emails about you to all staff, blaming your designs for the house’s financial trouble, please don’t be tempted to retaliate. Alber Elbaz did that at Lanvin; he’s not at Lanvin any more. Start date: ASAP.... we really can't stress this enough. If you are eligible and (still?) interested in this position, no need to email a CV and cover letter - our headhunters will already be in touch.
SERPENT CENTRAL
What's red, black, and all over the fashion radar? ANSWER: the false coral snake...
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Earrings, £93, Yazbukey, kirnazabete.com; Patch £4.99, eBay, ebay.co.uk; Shoes, £425, Emy Mack, runway2street.com; Shoes, £150, Loeffler Randall, harpersbazaar.com; Skirt, £95, Topshop, topshop.co.uk; Bag, £2,660, Gucci, net-a-porter.com; Bag, £115, Sarah Baily, wolfandbadger.com; Bag, £1,250, Gucci, gucci.com; Jeans, £845, Gucci, mytheresa.com; T shirt, £16, Mango, mango.com; Ring, £690, Bee Goddess, harrods.com
Valentino Couture Spring 2016
The False Coral Snake, or as we like to call him, Simon, is a wiggly creature originating from South America. He's not poisonous, thankfully, as he has a penchant for slithering over the most lusted after styles of the season. He was seen doing his snakey thing on the Gucci catwalks in the spring, and you can often catch him getting up close and personal on accessories. Some say he's even ventured further afield to the likes of Mango, giving the high street chain his serpentine seal of approval. Like Alexa Chung at M&S, his influence has triggered an flood of his followers to the high street, and to the luxury field beyond. Are we feeling tempted? Yesssssssssssss
Gucci Autumn/Winter 2016
Trend Watch
he love affair is over. Skinny jeans have been the denim cut du choix for the past decade, but something has soured. It was the ripped knees trend that finally did it for me. I shed a tear over a hole in my favourite jeans circa 2002 (admittedly, I was 9) - we all secretly know there’s something wrong about buying broken jeans. But skinnies, and my slavish addiction to the instant slim silhouette they give, held me to ransom. I’d been anti-busted knees longer than most, but last summer I bought in. a month later, sewing up the enlarged rip on the right knee, I knew I’d been had. But it dawned on me that these weren’t even the first set of skinnies I’d had to throw out: the same brand’s black super skinny jeans were getting replaced because the material was wearing out – any more and my knees would yet again be bursting out a la The Incredible Hulk. I didn’t give up skinnies though – I was hooked, remember. The thing is, skinny jeans aren’t even a choice any more – they're the default, so when you’re not wearing them, it’s a statement in itself. They’re flattering: less material gives the impression of less thigh (right?), and the stretch means they’re oh-so-easy to pull on. Add to that: alternative jeans cuts can take a while to get your head around. I love an oversized jumper; I’d got used to contrasting these with extremely tapered styles on my legs, as if to prove to all that I am, actually, slim underneath. Eschewing the skinny was going to take more of a push – and some confidence on my part. Cue the fashion game-changer that is Vetements, and the jeans you’ll seeing on every fashion blogger worth their salt for the next six months – or longer. £800 worth of re-constructed denim that’s cut to give a pert bottom and length on the legs, with the rocker feel of Debbie Harry. 90’s style ‘Mom’ jeans have had a presence on the fashion radar for a few seasons, but the knock on effect of Vetements’ designs will see non-skinny jeans that are somewhat easier to digest. These slightly straighter cuts create a balance between the upper and lower leg while the stronger denim trains the thigh and provides support in the seat. The high waist also works to flatter: it elongates your leg and cinches in your middle. We’re not trying to channel Rachel from Friends here; these jeans are directional, with an eye to the future. Finally: a jeans alternative that can stand up to the competition. The rise of fast fashion and internet shopping is likely to have something to do with the rise in appeal of skinnies. There was a time where finding the right jeans took time and dedication, but skinnies, with their elastic/denim mix, allow retailers to get away with less precise cuts to fit a wider variety of people shapes. We can order online without having to dedicate time to the changing rooms, and the chances of your jeans fitting are greatly increased. They’re also instantly comfier, because whereas proper denim takes longer to soften and mould to your shape, elastic skips that step. This means that rather than dedicating ourselves to one pair, we allow ourselves to stray and buy more skinnies with variations on colour and adornment. Another good thing for fast fashion retailers, as they can introduce new skinny micro-trends more frequently. But that says something else about what is happening in the fashion environment in 2016: we’re overfaced. While micro-trends barely have time to sink in before they’re supplanted by new ones, there haven’t been any great seismic fashion shifts in a while. So when something as sartorially big as the Vetements phenomenon happens, we fashion aficionados can get excited. Are these jeans a reaction against fast fashion, and all the aspects of the modern fashion industry that are so problematic for designers? Are these jeans an act of rebellion? Are they the future? First things first: the new cut of jeans will take a while to find. Everyone’s legs are differently shaped and will suit different brands, so it’s back to the good ol’ fashioned changing room test for me. Luckily there’s an exciting wave of labels championing the same straight leg that Vetements made famous, so there’s plenty of choice. I happen to have found my ideal pair at Levis, but it won’t be the same for everyone. It’s worth putting the time in to find something that works for you: we wear jeans so often – it needs to be right. Failing that, a decent tailor will be able to make your jeans work for you. Spending a little more is also worth it when the higher cost per wear means you’ll get the maximum value out of your purchase, and the higher grade denim means you’ll have them for much longer. In the meantime, like all long term relationship break-ups, it is going to take some time to readjust. If the idea of a wardrobe without skinny jeans makes you shudder, you are not alone. We’ve built your wardrobes around this style for years, so it'll take a while to phase out. But awareness is the first step towards moving on: keep an eye out for baggier jeans, and if you take a fancy to anything, be adventurous. Over the next few months the Vetements ripple effect will mean there’ll be even more skinny jean alternatives out there, and you’ll start to get your head around how to wear them. It will become easier: one day you’ll look at your skinny jeans as just one option rather than your only choice. You'll be free of your skinny jeans shackles, and you'll have Vetements to thank.
THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES: one girl is waking up to the reality that the trend is over
BREAK IT OFF
The skinny professes to be the IDEAL PARTNER, but perhaps they're less like the perfect husband and more like the BAD BOYFRIEND you know you really should ditch. Here's why:
SKINNY JEANS aren't even a choice... they've become the DEFAULT: when you're not wearing them, it's a STATEMENT
BREAKING UP WITH SKINNY JEANS
Baggier jeans styles are delicious with heels, while cropped versions allow for a slither of ankle above your boots or statement sock. Tuck in your top to make the most of the high waistband and play with the other trends you have going on in your wardrobe: you'll find the new silhouette will liven up even your most overlooked clothes.
Renouncing the skinny is easier with a little support: take a bow, PERNILLE TEISBAEK, the Danish fashion editor of THE YOU WAY, whose jeans game is second to none...
1. The skinny isn’t in it for the long haul Remember when breaking in jeans was a labour of love, when worn-in jeans that loved you back were a sign of commitment, and almost an achievement? Skinny jeans are not that kind of guy. The elastic-induced instant gratification means that they're comfortable immediately, but it also means they have a shelf life. Instead of growing with you, the skinny deteriorates over time. The knees bag and the bum sinks. It starts to let you down. 2- The skinny is a bad influence The skinny has paved the way for more faux-jean styles, namely the dreaded jegging. Jeggings are just leggings that are lying to you. The worst of the worst in the jegging genus is the legging with a denim print. There's something deeply disturbing about this garment. 3- The skinny is stopping you from moving on Or rather, the skinny is stopping fashion from moving on. One of the main signs of changing styles is the development of new silhouettes. When you’re addicted to one particular cut of trousers, you’re stopping yourself from allowing a new silhouette into your life. When that happens on a mass scale (a la skinny jeans phenomenon) fashion stagnates. If you’re feeling a bit disinterested in fashion lately, your skinnies could be to blame.
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Levi's Straight-Leg Jeans, £53, etsy.com; Vetements Reworked Straight-Leg Jeans, £809, stylebop.com; Monki Kimomo jeans, £53, monki.com; MiH Jeans Straight Leg Jeans, £199, stylebop.com; Acne Studios Boy Jean, £255, totokaelo.com
TAKE INSPIRATION:
FIN.