K
BEAUTY
Market analysis
Banned ingredients in cosmetics
INSIGHT
skincare brands
AI in the cosmetic industry
Introducing
Popular skincare ingredients
Korean
The K-beauty insight
EDITORS
YJN EUROPE, s.r.o. Štefániková 849 010 01 Žilina
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CONTACTS
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jameskim@yjn.or.kr
Luobulinka by Unsplash
Editor's letter
Lucija Ros by Unsplash
With people of all ages, not only the famous generation Y and Z, hanging on social media and the internet, constantly connected and exposed to new ideas, one may find it difficult to orientate one’s self among the number of trends. They are always changing and overlapping, with some disappearing suddenly. Trends are an ever-changing entity. Following trends in the beauty industry is important, but it can only take you so far. I think, as a consumer, what makes a brand stand out to its potential customers is a brand story: a script they follow regardless of the trends, being unique in a sense, with a story, quality products, and being responsive to their customers and environment in general. Finding the right brand or cosmetic product is similar to finding a suitable partner. You need to ask yourself: What am I looking for? How is it going to make me feel? What do I want? I, for one, have made my choice. You can discover it on page 23. In the end, a good quality product will stick with you the same way a loving person will. And in the same way as that person, the cosmetic brand or product will make you feel beautiful, happy, satisfied, and content. Now go and pick your favourite one.
© YJN EUROPE, s.r.o. 2021 No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher.
CONTACT FOR MANUFACTURERS AND BRAND OWNERS
yjneurope@gmail.com
Miroslava Burdová Marta Gałwiaczek
Banned ingredients in cosmetics in the EU 2018 - 2021
Brands that use one unique ingredient in every product line
How to use them for your advantage
k-BEAUTY IN POLAND AND EUROPE
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58
70
UNIQUE BRAND INGREDIENTS
Your pocket guide to social media marketing
SCIENCE MEETS NATURE
68
18
82
Favourite brand that meets your every concern
Social media and influencers as marketing tools
MARKET RESEARCH
Brands that mix science research with natural ingredients
banned ingredients
BRAND INTRODUCTION
Kyle Nieber by Unsplash
MARKET ANALYSIS part 1
2
POCKET GUIDE
74
6
EDITOR´S PICK
in this magazine
Market transformation and consumers
43
News in customer shopping experience
POPULAR SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
52
Brands that follow traditional ingredients of South Korea
80
SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING
AI IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
49
TRADITIONAL HERBAL BLENDS
Beauty industry presents AI for fun
AI & AR for fun
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ULTRA V
BRAND INTRO:
Vision
The Beginning Idebenone is a synthetic analogue of coenzyme Q10; however, it is four times stronger than Vitamin C and ten times stronger than coenzyme Q10! It is, nevertheless, weak in the presence of light, water and oxygen. Therefore, successfully stabilising a high content of idebenone in solution came as the result of many years of research. Ultra V patents for idebenone complex composition through niosome technology give Ultra V an edge in skincare and cosmetics with a technology that is hard to copy and/or imitate. Ultra V idebenone products’ golden colour is genuinely due to the high content of idebenone; they do not contain any additional colourants.
pixabay.com
Conceived around the concept of ‘Skin more beautiful than a flower’, Ultra V’s logo also conveys the message of never-ending innovation as the eye leaps from one colour to another one in a clock-like manner. Time may never stop, but Ultra V will always bring back youthful skin with its exclusive ‘IDEBENONE’ core technology. The logo represents a company envisioning itself as a flexible organisation in a human-centred and diversified environment. It is the symbol of a humanistic dynamism leading to a positive future with unlimited potential. Their logo is a symbol of a company developing its technologies with harmony and a future-oriented spirit.
vecteezy.com
If you are looking for brands that combine the latest scientific research with natural ingredients, look no further.
ULTRA V was established in 2012 by Dr Kwon Hanjin, a worldwide authority in anti-ageing and the chairman of the International Association of Aesthetic and Anti-aging Medicine. Dr Kwon was looking for more powerful antioxidant ingredients than coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E, and he developed a product that prevents skin from ageing. It makes your skin radiant and even thanks to the power of idebenone.
The core ingredient
‘Time may never stop but Ultra V will always bring back youthful skin with its exclusive ‘IDEBENONE’ core technology.‘
Idebenone ampoule is one of the key products of Ultra V, backed by years of research. The proof is more than 12 million idebenone ampoule bottles sold in 2020. It is an anti-ageing ampoule that contains idebenone, the most efficient ingredient in avoiding loss of elasticity and dark spots. Niacinamide inhibits melanin production; it makes the skin brighter and the skin tone more even. Adenosine increases collagen production and visibly improves fine lines and wrinkles. The ampoule contains hyaluronic acid for moist and smooth skin and extracts of chokeberry and EGF to promote collagen production and elasticity. The ampoule comes in a nice minimalistic box that contains four bottles and one pipette. The bottle is very handy and looks luxurious. The packaging is practical. All bottles have a special cup where the idebenone is kept until you mix it with the hyaluronic acid. The citrus scent is very gentle; its texture is light and gel-like. After application, the ampoule feels a bit oily but it is absorbed very quickly leaving the skin smooth and radiant. My skin after use feels great and after a few weeks of use, I started noticing that my hyper-pigmentation was subsiding and my fine lines were less visible.
Bio BF Ampoule
Sales achievement ULTRA V have many wonderful achievements under their belt; their product Ultra V Lift has been approved and certified in 26 countries; they have over 500 sales points all over the world and have sold over 1 million bottles of idebenone ampoules! ULTRA V has a wide scope of activities and interests such as thread lifting, PDO filler, cosmetics, medical devices and the DERMASTER Clinics. The success continues ULTRA V products are registered by the US FDA as OTC functional cosmetics and approved by the China FDA for hygiene safety. Their cosmetic products are sold through home shopping: launched in November 2016, Ultra V ranked 1st in 2017 in the Lotte Home shopping Beauty category, ranked 1st in 2018 in the Ampoule category and ranked 1st in 2019 in the Beauty category (for sales). After this tremendous success, and with hundreds of thousands of satisfied customers, ULTRA V started selling their cosmetics in Korea´s largest drugstore chain, Olive Young, then in Costco Wholesale and Lotte Duty-Free shopping mall. ULTRA V expanded beyond their homeland to pop-up stores in Thailand (2017), as well as online retail networks in China (2018), Hong Kong and Vietnam (both in 2019). Their superb cosmetics are promoted by models, Korean celebrities, TV beauty programmes and the media, and also by their satisfied customers all over the world. Find out more If you want to know more about ULTRA V, visit their web page here at http://www.ultrav.co.kr/ or follow them on their Instagram page @ultravcosmetic. For the shopping experience click here: https://ultravcosmetic.com/us/main/index.php
REVIEW
Idebenone Ampoule
This ampoule comes in a minimalist box that contains three bottles of ampoule F and three smaller bottles of solution which you mix together. It can be stored for one week, preferably in a refrigerator. The texture is a bit watery but it absorbs nicely leaving the skin hydrated and smooth. There is no specific scent which is great. After a few weeks of use, I saw visible results. My skin was firmer, my hyper-pigmentation on my forehead was almost gone and I think that my skin tone was more even. My skin also felt more hydrated and elastic. Bio BF ampoule contains nine kinds of peptides for elasticity improvement and hyaluronic acid for three layers of hydration. The ampoule is produced by a highly enriched freeze-dry method. Drying at a low temperature minimises the damage and fixes the substance of the active ingredients. It helps to keep the filling precise and clean. This anti-ageing ampoule contains VPEP, which that consists of peptides that are derived from protein in the body. It has whitening, hydrating, and nutrition effects and it improves skin elasticity. Other key ingredients are centella asiatica extract, niacinamide and adenosine.
changes in the external environment and secures strategies for fostering new brands and pursuing growth.
By conducting dermatologist tests, LAPOTHICELL delivers effective solutions safely through products that are mild to the skin but effective in function. LAPOTHICELL does not use parabens or artificial colouring. With minimal use of artificial or chemical ingredients, LAPOTHICELL products are safe even on sensitive skin.
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‘The brand uses dermatological knowledge, advanced technology and top ingredients to create mild and hypoallergenic products suitable for any skin concern’.
LAPOTHICELL
The name LAPOTHICELL is a compound word made of two words: ‘Lapothi’ (‘to cure’) and ‘cell’ to deliver the message: ‘to cure cells’. LAPOTHICELL offers solutions designed to improve all skin concerns.
LAPOTHICELL adheres to four easy and clear formulas to offer solutions to resolve skin concerns it adds what skin needs, reduces skin concerns, multiplies desirable functions and divides good ingredients.
LAPOTHICELL is the true derma cosmetic brand developed and derived from specialists with almost 60 years of experience in the pharmaceutical industry. LAPOTHICELL proposes a simple method to love your skin with the four rules of arithmetic: Add What Skin Wants, Subtract What Skin Concerns, Multiply Functions on Skin and Even-Out Skin Tone.
JEA H&B, founded in 2012, has been securing distribution channels in H&B stores, duty-free shops and e-commerce, and has positioned itself as a cosmetics distribution platform. With such multi-sales channels, solid relationships with retailers and accumulated know-how, Jea H&B became a good partner with many overseas brands on the Korean market. Organization JEA H&B has a one-brand-multi-channel strategy that is organised as an organic cell structure to succeed over various multi-brands in the fast-changing Korean market. It internalises the entire process of A to Z for success, such as marketing, sales and logistics (90% coverage of Korean retailers). Through this organic system, JEA H&B operates all beauty sections ranging from colour cosmetics, skincare, body, hair and accessories. Distribution channels JEA H&B operates most cosmetic distribution channels such as H&B, duty-free, department stores and online. Through this distribution channel mix, it responds to
The promise
How it began
Rules of arithmetic
Airy Fit Sun Protection Stick SPF50 + PA ++++ is a sun protection product suitable for oily to normal skin types. It provides the skin with moisture and keeps sebum production at bay. Its key ingredients include allantoin, eucalyptus leaf oil, sunflower oil, and patented herb cool. Herb Cool is a complex containing apple mint, common thyme, and green tea. They cool down the skin and provide anti-inflammatory as well as anti-bacterial protection. The sun stick protects the skin against both UVA and UVB. To ensure a matte finish, the sun stick contains micro-porous powder. Wilde geranium oil helps control the skin sebum and is very effective for oily and troublesome skin types. The stick has a plastic container where you spin the bottom part and pull up the stick. It is easy to carry around so you can re-apply the sun protection anytime. It has a nice matte finish so it can be applied on top of make-up too. It also controls sebum so it is a great help if your skin gets oily during the day.
Airy Fit Sun Protection Stick SPF50+ PA++++
Multi-Active Hydrating Cream provides moisturising, soothing and brightening, and it helps the skin’s defences to protect against environmental pollutants. It provides 48-hour lasting skin hydration and radiance enhanced by 39.14% after use. After the first application, the skin hydration increases by 513.67%, over the next 24 hours by 104.01% and a total of 48 hours by 54.25% versus not applying the Multi-Active Hydrating Cream. From the first month of treatment, there is a + 8.74% improvement of the density of dermis with Multi-Active Hydrating Cream versus not applying the cream. The cream contains 5% eggplant extract that has antioxidant properties; it suppresses melanin formation and the formation of skin sebum. The plankton extract serves as an antioxidant and moisturising agent. Camellia Flower Extract helps with anti-wrinkle care and moisturising; niacinamide stimulates new collagen and reduces hyperpigmentation. This light cream is slightly more perfumed than other brand products; the texture is light but offers enough hydration and skin barrier protection.
In 2020, Lapothicell products were included in a K-Beauty online showcase in Panama. The company works with various influencers on social media and is also backed up with positive reviews of their satisfied customers. Currently, Lapothicell product lines are sold online and offline (179 shops) in Canada, the US, North Macedonia, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Chine, Philippines, Japan and Korea.
Collaboration with Lapothicell
The brand is currently represented by the Korean K-pop idol boy group THE BOYZ. Previously they worked with K-pop star Henry and singer Eric Nam. Lapothicell products were included in a fan sign event in Hyundai Duty-Free in 2019; they were featured in several magazines and are often mentioned in various TV shows such as Beauty and Luxury or All about Week Beauty Claire.
Multi-Active Hydrating Cream
@elmolu_official
http://www.elmolu.co.kr/
Brand story Skin Leader Cosmetics or SLC Co., LTD. was established in August 2007. A year later they were granted permission to manufacture cosmetics. A modelling mask formula was developed and produced and then exported to the USA. In 2009 the company established a cosmetic manufacturing factory, developed the gel mask and started manufacturing it. In 2010, gel- powder and a gel-solution mask were added to the manufacturing process. In later years they developed and manufactured super lifting masks, heated masks, cream modelling masks, bio-cellulose masks and automatic modelling masks. They have received many awards along the way and are growing rapidly. Company vision The company´s vision is to become the world's leading modelling mask pack company. This involves developing new, consumer-oriented technologies and products. They are involved in securing manufacturing chains and production systems for mask pack-related products, gaining quality stability and functionality of market-expanding premium products, building diverse marketing activities and strategies for global companies and providing total care services for customers.
ELMOLU
Skin leader cosmetics:
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Besides masks, Elmolu offers other types of cosmetic products. The White Silk up Essence is a two-in-one product that moisturises, nourishes and brightens the skin with its oxygen bubbles and significant ingredient list. The Raindrop Gel Mist contains damask rose petals; it makes the skin feel moist and soothed. The Golden Age Lifting pack provides an immediate lifting effect; it tightens pores and maintains skin elasticity. Fresh Oil Cleanser and Fresh Oil-form Cleanser contain eight natural vegetable oils for clean and hydrated skin.
Text
Re Age Mist Cleanser
Gypsum masks
Their Premium Sheet Masks are made of 100 % cotton; they do not contain any artificial fibres. The masks are great for moisturising, nutrition and skin texture improvement, as well as cooling and energising troubled skin.
Sherbet modeling masks
Elmolu has a powder modelling mask line with a cooling and soothing effect. These peel-off powder masks are sold in 1 kg packs. Their Gypsum mask is excellent for people who wish to control their sebum and who want to keep their pores clean.
Radiant shaking modeling masks
Pick your favourite one...
Love mode cream masks
The pore care mask contains camellia oil as extracts from camellia seeds have a super-moisturising effect on the hair and skin. Sweet almond and macadamia oil have a soothing effect on the skin. The brightening mask contains natural vitamin C, unsaturated fatty acids, rosehip oil—which can protect the skin from the external environment—and sea buckthorn oil which brightens the skin. The cooling mask contains peppermint oil which offers a cooling effect; it soothes the skin. The mask pack contains two sacks and a mixing container for a mess-free preparation. Once the mask is mixed and becomes smooth you can apply it with the enclosed applicator. Just leave the mask on for 20 to 30 minutes and peel it off. This process is easy and does not pull your skin so the result is nice, radiant skin with clean pores and an even skin tone. It is really easy to use this mask, and also you have slightly more time to apply it evenly on your face, neck or the backs of your hands.
Radiant Shaking Modelling masks are new concept masks where you only pour the content of both packs into the container, shake it, and it is ready to apply. It is a great solution, easy and mess-free. The mask is creamy and does not dry as quickly as other modelling masks, so you have enough time to spread it onto your skin. The skin after use is hydrated, firm, and soft and the skin tone is more even. There are three types of masks: red (brightening), green (pore care) and violet (improves elasticity).
Re Age Mist Cleanser is a new type of cleansing water. It contains kaempferia galanga root extract, which is rich in flavonoids, minerals, and fructose; it boosts the vitality of your skin. Potassium cocoate from coconut oil is a very mild ingredient that does not irritate the skin, so it is a hypoallergenic product. It also has excellent cleansing and moisturising ability. It also contains black Ginger extract, which is an antioxidant and prevents ageing; it also manages acne and makes the skin tone brighter. Black ginger, the rhizome of kaempferia parviflora, has traditionally been used as food and folk medicine for more than 1000 years in Thailand. The dried rhizome is generally pulverised and used as tea bags, while the fresh one is utilised to brew wine. The wine preparation is increasingly used in Thailand as a tonic and as an aphrodisiac. Paeonia lactiflora extract helps to calm down sensitive skin and boosts its vitality. It also helps to calm down sensitive, dry and red skin. This product is easy to use; you can either use it as a cleansing water to remove make-up or as a regular cleanser by mixing it with water.
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Six types of Love Mode Cream masks are made of 100% cotton sheets and they contain various flower extracts to improve the condition of your skin. They include energy- boosting, peptide wrinkle, fresh aqua, pore scaling, anti-acne and whitening types.
The Sherbet Modelling masks are easy to use as they do not need to be mixed with water. Application is easy and the skin after use is moisturised, firm and soothed.
Premium sheet masks
About
TRADITIONAL HERBAL BLENDS:
In 2019, Inward cream, serum and mask underwent a clinical test and the result was very satisfactory: all three products help improve skin oil, skin sebum, and acne through four weeks of use. So they are considered suitable products for acne-prone skin.
INWARD
Core ingredients
Their core concept ingredient is Agastache rugosa, also known as Korean mint. This herb is mentioned in a medical book written by Heo Jun, a doctor of the Joseon Dynasty, in 1610! Agastache rugosa has anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-viral effects. Another important herb used in Inward products is the famous Centella Asiatica also known as tiger grass which is effective for regenerating damaged cells and soothing irritated skin. Chloranthus glaber contains coumarin, which prevents skin oxidation and thus helps develop lively skin. Acanthopanax senticosus root can be found in the north of Jiri-mountain, Korea, and is evaluated as a superior medicinal herb to ginseng, and is used as a medicine for treating frail constitutions in Korean medicine.
Clinical tests
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INWARD is a Korean cosmetic brand that blends traditional herbal ingredients with modern multi-functional care. The main ingredients are mixed with 10 to 30 kinds of original herbs and extracts for each product. Inward’s cosmetics are composed of EWG green grade ingredients and they are free from animal-based raw materials, alcohol products, essential oils, mineral oil, parabens, silicone and sulphates.
Additional info
Agas ACue Herbal Mask Review
BionCell As a cosmetic specialist company in the concept of the encounter of nature and science, it is symbolized by combining the colours of sky blue, which symbolizes science, and cyan green, which contains natural cells, to represent the cosmedical company that combines science and nature. Their vision is to develop cutting-edge biotechnology DDS cosmetics, development of efficacy- oriented cosmetics using biomedical engineering technology, and development of the safest cosmetics using natural ingredients. Why Oshinchae? Oshinchae means five types of wild herbs we eat at the onset of spring according to the lunar calendar’s marking of seasons. It includes Allium monanthum, garlic, Allium tuberosum, Allium fistulosum and ginger, which belong to Liliaceae Liliales, a monocotyledon. Benefits Oshinchae has a warm nature and a spicy and strong scent. It is prohibited in Buddhism as a stamina food that arouses sexual desire. It is known to be very effective for increasing immunity and reinforcing resistance to the extent that a parasite of oshinchae can’t feel pain. It facilitates the secretion of digestive enzymes, has a sterilising action, and enhances absorption of vitamin B1 as it contains allicin, the main ingredient of unique taste and fragrance. With a high content of minerals helpful for the maintenance of health such as calcium and iron, this healthy food helps us overcome vitamin deficiency, helps blood circulation, facilitates metabolism, and activates tissues. Symbolism In addition, oshinchae was regarded as the food of union and enjoyed by people to meditate on the meaning of political union and to share among the king and senior statesmen. People have improved benevolence, righteousness, courtesy, knowledge, and loyalty by eating oshinchae, a symbol of the union of family. In addition, it was known to convey the lesson of enduring hardship of people by enjoying spicy and bitter oshinchae.
If you are looking for a cosmetic brand that uses the best natural ingredients and incorporates scientific research in the process, then INWARD is the right brand for you. You can learn more on their official website here and here.
New offers
INWARD offers one more wash off mask: the Purple Plant Cream Mask, which is effective for moisturizing and soothing dry skin, itchy skin, atopic skin, etc. This mask has four patents of various effects. It has a dual function: it can be used as a wash-off pack and a scrub. Its main ingredient is prickly pear, which contains ten times as many vitamins as cherry tomatoes, and it is an antioxidant that moisturises and helps to calm irritated skin. Kaolin and Bentonite remove excessive sebum, pore impurities, and help brighten skin tone. INWARD is currently developing a new line called Purple Plant Line for dry and atopic skin. The line will consist of Intensive Cream, Mild Peel, Cream Mask and Serum Mist.
Agas ACue Herbal Mask is a wash-off mask of pH 5.5. It is a potent blend of green tea and Korean mint (Agastache rugosa) which helps to clear congested pores, and smooth breakouts, calming the skin. It has a cooling effect that brings relief to irritated or acne-prone skin. Raw green leaf tea is an antioxidant that helps control excess sebum and it is where this mask derives its natural colour and fragrance from. Agastache rugosa soothes while providing hydration to the deepest layers of the skin, while glycerine and butyl avocadate (derived from avocados) help keep skin hydrated and plump. The container is simple; the mask comes with a little spatula to scoop out the content. I used a brush because it was more convenient and easier to apply. The mask is a bit watery, so you need to be a bit cautious. The scent is herbal and very pleasant. The skin after use feels refreshed, soothed, and smooth. I appreciate that this mask also contains hydrating ingredients.
OSHINCHAE
rawpixel.com by Freepik
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Oshinchae Phyto volume serum has a moisturising effect, reinforces the epidermis, and increases skin elasticity. The micro-emulsion technology and fermentation are fused to make this serum more efficient. The serum contains a large amount of ointment extract and various natural moisturising ingredients which nourish cells and strengthen the skin’s elasticity. It is possible to mix the serum with other products from the Oshinchae line to maximise the anti-wrinkle and moisturising effects. This serum comes in an eco-friendly package and a convenient pump. The texture looks watery but it is actually more viscous and somehow oily. It creates a kind of protective barrier on the skin without the feeling of heaviness or stickiness. The skin after use is firmer, nourished, and vital. This serum is currently one of my absolute favourites.
OSHINCHAE REVIEW
‘Lycoris Co., Ltd is a cosmetic manufacturing company, established in 2010. Their head office is located in Jeju Island, the famous Korean island known for its beautiful nature.’
Review
Oshinchae Phyto volume serum
Another unique ingredient they use is horse oil, which helps to keep the skin moisturised and nourished. This ingredient is included in their Chamayu line (Chamayu Cream, Chamayu Cream EX, and Chamayu Aqua Cream), Hevony line (Horse Oil Soap, H. Horse Oil Mask Pack, H. Horse Oil Cleansing Foam, H. Horse Oil Body wash, H. Horse Oil Body Lotion, H. Horse Oil Moisture Shampoo), Mayu line (Mayu Masim Cream, Mayu Miin Cream) and the combination of Hevony and Mayu (Hevony Mayu Eye Cream and Hevony Mayu Eye Patch).
Horse oil
LYCORIS uses natural ingredients that cannot be found anywhere other than Jeju Island. They have studied various natural ingredients such as horse fat, horse placental protein, Rubus hirsutus thunb (wild raspberry), camellia placenta, and more in their R&D institute. They work hard to find raw ingredients with natural biological resources obtained from the sea, fields, mountains, and the Gotjawal Forest of Jeju. LYCORIS products have earned national certification. They have also obtained LOHAS Certification, which purses a healthy life and environmental conservation. As a result, their natural products have been exported to nine countries in recent years.
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Establishment
Research
LYCORIS´s most famous ingredient is a placental extract from Halla horses. It is a placental protein composed of 83% amino acids and 17% bioactive substances. For example, proline and cerin, the main components of glycine and collagen, maintain skin elasticity and prevent wrinkles. Cystine presents whitening effects through the suppression of melanin pigments. The bioactive substances uronic acid, collagen peptide, and hyaluronic acid supply nutrition and moisture to create healthy, elastic skin. LYCORIS also uses a placental extract from the black pigs of Jeju. The product lines that include placental protein are the placenta line (Placenta Soap, Placenta Ampoule, and Placenta Cream) and the placenta premium line (Placenta Premium Fluid, Placenta Premium Essence Serum, Placenta Premium Cream, and Placenta Premium BB Cream).
Top ingredients
Camellia extract
The camellia placental extract obtained with advanced technology keeps the moisture and sebum on the skin balanced and prevents early signs of ageing. Camellia extract is included in their Phyto Placenta Jeju Camellia line that includes a toner, emulsion, and moisturising cream.
LYCORIS
LYCORIS, established in 2010, after obtaining a cosmetic manufacturing license, released their first product: placenta soap. After that, they released three more functional placenta products for wrinkle improvement, including their famous Chamayu cream that contains horse oil. In 2012 they started to export their products to Lithuania, Turkey, and Hong Kong. They also established the Lycoris Institute, an R&D centre. A year later, they registered their cosmetic products in Russia and the U.S. The same year, LYCORIS started exporting to Japan. In the next few years, they expanded their business to Thailand, China, Taiwan, Bangladesh and Finland.
Placental extract
Essence Serum & Cream
Korean brand Lycoris has produced quality cosmetics since 2010. This review will focus on the Placenta Premium Essence Serum and Placenta Premium Cream from their Placenta Premium line. My first impression of the line was that it looked really luxurious, one might say shelf worthy, a kind of product that immediately catches your eyes. I wondered if this impression would persist once I had tried these products. Concerns I was concerned as an age thirty-plus; I was starting to notice the first signs of aging; my fine lines and wrinkles were not that visible, but they were there. And I asked myself: What am I supposed to do with it? Is there something I can actually do to improve my skin texture and reduce the visibility of my fine lines? I was looking for a product that would slow down the natural causes of time but also something that would improve my skin condition and keep it hydrated, because hydration is a must, right? What is inside? What intrigued me to try this beauty line was the use of placenta, I was wondering, what kind of placenta? The Premium Placenta line contains highly concentrated horse placenta protein from the Halla horses of Jeju Island. According to the brand´s website the placenta is composed of 83% amino acids and 17% bio-active substance. Amino acids maintain skin’s hydration, texture, resilience, and an overall healthy appearance. They maintain the skin´s elasticity, strengthen the skin’s natural defence system and maintain the skin’s smoothness and hydration. As for the bio-active part, that includes uronic acid, collagen peptides, and hyaluronic acid, which all supply nutrition and moisture to the skin. The Placenta Premium Cream also contains another active ingredient: adenosine, which functions as a soothing and skin-restoring agent. It has proven anti-wrinkle benefits due to its ability to energise the skin’s surface. Products with adenosine show improvements in the visible signs of aging as well as improving skin smoothness.
If you are looking for a merger between natural and scientific, then LYCORIS is the right brand for you. They combine the best pure nature of Jeju Island can provide, with the top scientific research and advanced technologies. Their products are full of wonderful ingredients that will help you achieve or maintain healthy skin. If you want to know more about LYCORIS, visit their web page at http://www.lycoris.co.kr/ or follow them on their Instagram page @lycoris_official
Lycoris Placenta Premium Line
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Jusfilm by Unsplash
Lycoris
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How do you use it? It is quite simple: You always use the essence serum first, followed by the cream. I absolutely love the texture of the serum, which is creamier than regular serum. I really like to use it day and night. As for the cream, I would probably recommend it for your night time routine as it is slightly heavier. However, it all depends on your skin type. My skin being a mixed to oily type I prefer to use lighter creams in the mornings. However, for the night time it suits me perfectly. Both products offer immediate relief and hydration. Also, if you have a more mature skin you might find it beneficial to use both the serum and the cream both morning and night. Fast check I used my SK-03 skin analyser for a quick check up on my hand. Without prior hand moisturiser my skin was really dry—only around 29%—so it was basically dehydrated. After application the skin felt instantly like velvet and the test results showed a whopping 42% hydration, a better balance between water and oils in my skin. My results I have been using this combo for three months now and I can see visible improvements to my skin. It is more supple and flexible, and the fine lines are definitely reduced. I like both products because they have a very nice gentle smell. I am not a big fan of using over-fragranced skincare, so this gentle herby smell suits me perfectly. Have I mentioned how great they look on my bathroom shelf? Is it worth it? It looks like you cannot go wrong by using these products. Neither of the products contains any harmful ingredients, and the brand is leaning towards natural ingredient-based products. The only problem might be the actual use of horse placenta protein, so obviously these products are not vegan. I know that some people might have a problem with the use of animal-based ingredients. Apart from this and the slightly higher price (Serum€85 and cream€108) there is nothing I can say against these two Lycoris products.
UNIQUE BRAND INGREDIENT
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GINGER6 Like White Snow Serum contains 70% patented ginger extract water. It has brightening and anti-aging properties. This serum provides moisture balance by supplying quadruple moisture factor and simultaneously it calms down any irritation or tightness. It contains hyaluronic acid, betaine, glycerine and trehalose which keep the skin soft and hydrated. Betaine creates a moisture barrier on the skin to keep it moisturised for a long time. Trehalose helps to suppress moisture evaporation and protects the skin. The serum bottle is minimalistic; it comes with a pump which is very convenient. The scent is very gentle; the texture is a transparent water gel type; it absorbs quickly leaving the skin smooth. It is one of the best serums I have tried; my skin is glowing, bright and hydrated. It is suitable for both day and night use. I really like that Ginger6 uses ginger extract instead of purified water; it feels like the serum is packed with amazing ingredients that help to keep the skin healthy.
GINGER 6
Like white Snow Serum
GINGER6 Hand Cream contains 20% patented ginger extract, nine kinds of natural oil, fermented shea butter, eight kinds of hyaluronic acid and a water complex, which provides moisture and nutrition as it contains minerals, amino acids, proteins, phospholipids and peptides. The hand cream has a minimalistic white tube; the texture is light and the scent is amazing. This is one of my favourite hand creams, mostly because of the addictive scent but also because it hydrates my skin very well. My hands tend to be really dry but ever since I have used this hand cream, my hands are hydrated and smooth. The hand cream is light but very powerful; it instantly hydrates your hands, leaving them feeling like velvet. It absorbs really quickly which is also very convenient. I think it is also suitable for men because the scent is really fresh.
Ginger root Ginger is a good ingredient for both body and skin; it is referred to as a ‘gift from the gods’, in Ayurveda, an ancient Indian book. Chinese saint Confucius famously ate it at every meal to keep his body warm. If you look at the Diary of the Royal Secretariat and the annals of the Joseon dynasty, you can see that Joseon kings used ginger a lot for their health. Ginger, in general, is an anti-oxidant, which helps suppress active oxygen, an ageing factor, and has excellent skin sedation, which helps to keep the skin’s texture in order. India and China know the function of ginger and have been using it since ancient times, and it has been known to work in Spain and England through Santiago. That's why we were able to reach Africa and the Americas very quickly. Ginger 6 is a six-time process that steams ginger and dries it, and the ginger roll content is gradually reduced. The 6-shogaol content increases to provide a skin-whitening function. They steam and dry ginger six times before they extract it. Through this process, the ingredient of 6-Shogaol, which has a brightening and anti-oxidant effect, is increased, while 6-gingerol decreases (this process is the same as Korean ginseng production).
GINGER 6 Hand Cream
Ginger6 cosmetic line is produced by a company called Hanamoa, a symbolic brand that thrives like a strong tree, where individuals gather to form dense leaves. HANA means one, harmony and cooperation in Korean. MOA means collecting, gathering and together. They promise to collect good ingredients and provide their customers with healthy products. It is a promise of quality and the will to improve.
Hanamoa Co., Ltd. was established in 2018. In 2019 they registered their own online mall, Moabala, and launched their first product, Real Soak Peeling Pad. They launched their Ginger6 line in 2020 and started exporting to countries like the USA, Canada, India, Thailand, the Middle East and China. Ginger water According to the 2021 Korea Dermatology Research Institute´s test, Ginger6 ginger extract water at a concentration of 0.5% promoted 48.01% type I procollagen production compared to the untreated group. Ginger extract water also inhibited intra/extracellular melanin production at a statistically significant level (p<0,05) in the 0.5% concentration treatment group and showed a 25.88% inhibition rate of intracellular/ extracellular melanogenesis.
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THE PURE LOTUS
White lotus Unlike decorative red lotus, white lotus leaf has been used to make medicine or tea. It is rich in iron, vitamin C, potassium, tannin, calcium, and dietary fibre, not to mention its excellent anti-oxidant effect. White lotus is used for an amazing skincare formula as well as for extraordinary health effects in terms of blood circulation, an iron supplement, and a detox effect. The strenuous efforts in research and development paid off as The Pure Lotus products manufactured in CGMP-certified facilities acquired Jeju cosmetic certification and European certification. Lotus artist Kang Myeongsun, known as the lotus artist of Jeju Island, was enchanted by this mysterious life of lotus growing in mud to become pure beauty. The artist spares no effort in making traditional paper for her to paint precious lotus flowers on it. Lotus growing in a muddy pond is recreated via a piece of art on paper. The lotus flower blooms again in The Pure Lotus, a unique brand truly created by art collaboration. Ingredients THE PURE LOTUS employs pure white lotus leaf extracts from Jeju Island as the soul of their skin and hair care products. Verified by domestic and overseas institutions such as Cosmetic Cert Jeju, CGMP, CPNP and ISO, the lotus leaf extract is collected using a cold-air drying method that minimises the loss of nutrients. The brand's bestsellers include the Lotus Leaf & Camellia Leaf Mist and Lotus Leaf Extract 89% Essence Lotion, both known for their restorative and anti-oxidising qualities that help to maintain the skin’s natural health. Products from THE PURE LOTUS are 100% made in Korea. Market The Pure Lotus products are sold all over the world; they have global platforms in the U.S., Canada, Brazil, Germany, Spain, Sweden, Romania, Belgium, Singapore, Indonesia, India, Vietnam and China. They have been featured in magazines such as the German InStyle, American Marie Claire, Singapore Women´s Weekly and more.
Containing 10% Jeju Botanical Complex Extract, the Jeju Botanical Eye Cream is an all-natural eye cream that cares for the most delicate of skin—the skin around your eyes! This natural eye cream contains aloe vera to soothe the skin around the eyes and is chock full of antioxidants to fight environmental free radical damage that can cause the early onset of fine lines and wrinkles. Ceramide, betaine and panthenol help hydrate and lock in that moisture to plump the skin around the eyes and improve skin elasticity to immediately reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles. The hypoallergenic, vegan-grade formulation is gentle enough for the most sensitive of skin and contains functional active ingredients such as adenosine and peptides for effective wrinkle care. This eye cream comes in a minimalistic white tube. It has a light creamy texture and a very light floral scent. It absorbs nicely and leaves the delicate skin around the eyes hydrated, soft and nourished.
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Jeju Botanical Eye Cream
Establishment and expansion Domestic aesthetic brand FAU, owned by Paran Medicas (2004) was established in 2011. A year later FAU launched five kinds of ampoules. In 2016 they launched FAU Skin Solution BB which was distributed in South Korea and also to overseas customers. FAU also participated in domestic and overseas fairs such as in Cosmoprof Hong Kong in Asia and other countries. The brand entered duty-free stores in Korea such as Lotte, Shinsegae, Shilla and Hyundai. They also expanded to other Asian countries, the United States, Canada and Europe. The next year, FAU received the Award of the Export Tower of one million dollars on the 59th Trade Day. In 2021, 32 kinds of products completed a skin irritation test; they launched their Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Line, they won first place in the vegan cosmetics category in the Korean Consumer Impression Index and ranked first for four consecutive years in the Korea Consumer Ratings. Currently, 21 FAU products have been registered to CPNP in the European Union. Promise They aim to make vegan and cruelty-free products with eco-friendly, reusable packaging and biodegradable materials. FAU uses only natural premium ingredients from nature. Brand vision FAU Co., Ltd. uses the German pronunciation of ‘V’ to mean ‘victory of the skin’. As skin experts, they have imported products that meet the strict good manufacturing practice (GMP) regulations of Germany, and manufactured high-performance and high-quality products that meet Korean GMP standards. Currently, consumers are losing the natural beauty and health of their skin due to external environmental factors or internal stress. In order to improve skin that has lost its beauty and health, FAU has been supplying cosmetics that can be used by skin experts since 2004. They develop products by combining pure natural botanical ingredients and state-of-the-art technology. In addition, skin experts are conducting continuous research through FAU’s long-standing know-how in order to deliver more effective therapy methods to customers. In the future, as a global aesthetic brand loved by dermatologists and consumers in 26 countries including Korea, FAU is constantly researching and striving to restore the natural beauty of the skin. Charity FAU makes a lot of donations to support the Drinking Water Development project of Ubuntu in Africa, as well as international NGOs, JTS, support for single-parent and low-income families, elderly families living alone, multicultural families and North Korean defectors.
FAU
36
Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Essence Toner
Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Serum
Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Essence Toner has high moisturising power. It contains 42% of pumpkin extract derived from nature that is rich in vitamins and minerals to deliver nourishing energy to the skin. The toner is a transparent essence water type that is quickly absorbed and has a refreshing finish. It contains active ingredients with micro polymers to deliver the nutrients effectively into the skin. It contains Vitamin A, seven hyaluronic acids, a patented ingredient, Eternal P, which is a pea protein. It has passed a skin irritation test and has an official certification from the body for vegan products, EVE VEGAN. The packaging is made of 95% regenerated pulp and 1% Jeju tangerine peels. The packaging is eco-friendly, the bottle is made of glass and the design is very nice and minimalistic. It is a viscous toner with a gentle scent of honey and orange that is absorbed nicely by the skin. It can be used in various ways based on your skin type—three layers if your skin is dry and one layer for combination and oily skin. The skin after use is smoother, visibly plumper, hydrated and soft.
Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Serum is a highly enriched moisturising product that contains 53% pumpkin extract derived from nature to deliver nutrients and energy. Skin nutrients such as hydrolysed pea protein and olive oil are contained in a semi-emulsifying, highly-concentrated serum formulation, providing a refreshing feeling of moisture without being sticky. Half-transparent serum texture contains abundant moisture to boost the dewy skin and finish. The bottle is minimalistic, made of glass, with a practical pump for easy application. This hydrophilic emulsifier has a scent of honey and orange and it is absorbed nicely by the skin without leaving it sticky. It is recommended to apply the serum twice if you have dry or combination skin and to apply one layer if your skin is oily. It can also be mixed with your liquid foundation or your favourite BB cream for better results. The skin after use is soft, hydrated and luminous. It is also fresh and healthy- looking.
Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Cream is a moisture cream as it contains 69% Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) fruit extract. Its main ingredients are phytosqualane from olive oil and shea butter. It has passed a skin irritation test and an official certification from the body for vegan products, EVE VEGAN. This cream contains the main ingredient extracted from pumpkin converted to melanoidin (a type of polymer) for maximum effect. Other ingredients include hyaluronic acid, pea protein, ceramides and EGF. This moisturising cream has a watery texture, it is very light and it is absorbed quickly into the skin. The container is made of glass; it has a minimalistic design and is eco-friendly. It contains nourishing pumpkin extract, hyaluronic acid and allantoin for hydrated skin, as well as niacinamide for a whitening effect. The skin after use is more even, brighter, hydrated and nourished.
Shiny pumpkin ampoule for shiny and bright skin offers anti-wrinkle care and a whitening effect. It contains 70% pumpkin extract that improves the skin’s texture and oligopeptides that enhances the skin’s elasticity. Pumpkin extract is rich in various vitamins, minerals, omega fatty acids and vitamin A. A vitamin B compound, niacinamide, has a whitening effect and prevents colour pigmentation while strengthening the skin´s barrier. This ampoule contains allantoin, lecithin, pea protein, shea butter and olive oil. It is recommended for people with dry or troubled skin that needs hydration and nourishment. The ampoule comes in a box of five 10 ml glass bottles with pipettes for easy application. The serum is viscous and almost transparent. It is absorbed nicely by the skin, without any sticky feeling. The scent is mild, smelling of pumpkin, orange and honey. The ampoule makes the skin shiny, hydrated, nourished and bright. After a few weeks of use, the hyperpigmentation started to fade and the skin tone was more even.
Shiny pumpkin ampoule
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Shiny Pumpkin Vegan Cream
‘FAU started with aesthetic cosmetics used by skin care professionals 24 years ago, and has now established itself as an aesthetic brand used by people all over the world from skin care to makeup products. We have found pure botanical ingredients derived from nature through intensive research by skin experts, as well as high-performance and high-quality cosmetics to restore the natural beauty of the skin by incorporating cutting-edge skin science technology. We aim to make your skin healthier every day and to make it easier for everyone to care for your own skin with a professional touch. We will be with you so that everyone can regain the natural beauty of the skin.’ CEO Choi Mi hwa
Establishment The company was established in 2004 and the ElishaCoy products were launched in 2008. Between 2009 and 2014, ElishaCoy established an affiliated design research centre and started exporting to over 15 countries. In 2014, they expanded to Malaysia, China and Japan. The next year, ElishaCoy products were broadcast on home shopping in India, the Philippines and South Korea. In 2017, they launched at CVS Drugstores in the US and E-Mart. Awards They were awarded a Gold Quality Bouquet Essence Cushion by Monde Selection, and a Grand Price by Korea Superb Brand Awards the same year. In 2019 they launched at Doota duty-free shop in DongDaeMoon and launched Soonsoo Cream Mist in Korea. Marketing ElishaCoy products were included in various TV shows in Korea, China, Taiwan and Japan and featured in magazines in China, Hong Kong, Romania and Japan. Their beauty lines are recommended by influencers from all over the world on YouTube and Instagram. Youth Water The patented ingredient of ElishaCoy is called Youth Water and it helps you to get back your original vitality by delivering moisture into the skin that is the basic and core principle of skincare. Youth Water forms a water road which makes allows the moisturising ingredient to be more efficiently absorbed by the skin. Stay connected ElishaCoy keeps fans up to date using their Instagram profile under the name @ elishacoy_gram (click) where the brand has over 11k followers. You can also visit their channel on YouTube where you will find them under the name ElishaCoy. Here you can find many makeup and skincare tips, product introduction, home shopping videos and brand promotional videos with celebrities and entertainers.
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EDITOR ´S PICK
42
ELISHACOY
Youth Water Line ElishaCoy has many wonderful beauty lines under their belt. Their Youth Water Line´s main ingredient is their patented Youth Water which makes the skin hydrated and moisturised. It consists of a toner; a toner refill; a face and eye cream; a hand, neck, and body lotion; a peeling and cleansing pad and a lip essence. Premium Gold Collagen Line The Premium Gold Collagen features hydrolysed collagen and plant collagen that keeps the skin moist from the inside. Other ingredients include gold, royal jelly and hyaluronic acid. This line consists of cleansing foam, a toner, an emulsion, an ampoule and a cream. Snail Line The Snail Line is suitable for dry and rough skin as it contains snail mucin for firm and resilient skin. This line also contains the patented ingredient SKINPIA 10. It has 10 different types of herbs to soothe sensitive and irritated skin. Snail line consists of a cleanser, a mask, a skin lotion, an essence, an eye balm, a cream and a mask. Moist Up Hyalurone Line As the name suggests, this line was created for people who want to keep their skin moist and hydrated for as long as possible. This line has a scientifically proven 80 hours moisturising effect proven by the Korea Institute of Dermatological Science. This line consists of cleansing foam, an ampoule toner, a lotion, an ampoule serum, a cream, and a capsule essence. Tetraforce line This line is suitable for irritated and troubled skin. It contains extracts of tea tree, camellia, Centella Asiatica to calm the skin and seven kinds of hyaluronic acid to keep the skin hydrated. It prevents acne caused by sebum accumulation which leads to clogged pores. The line is clinically proven to be non-comedogenic. The line consists of a cleanser, a toner, a wash-off mask, a cream, a spot patch and a sheet mask.
Tetraforce Wash-off mask
44
YJN EUROPE, s.r.o.
Tetraforce Wash-off Mask contains natural extracts of melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) extract, Camellia Sinensis leaf extract, Centella Asiatica extract and Houttuynia Cordata extract to calm the skin. It also includes kaolin, a porous clay ingredient that effectively absorbs moisture and oil, interfering with sebum production and helping to keep pores clear. The mask also includes raw ingredients that suppress activation of or remove, substances harmful to the skin to prevent or reduce skin irritation and help control skin trouble. There are no artificial fragrances used only natural oils help relieve skin stress with their aromatherapy (lavender) effect. The wash-off mask has a semi-transparent tube with a one-touch cap. It has a greenish colour and light clay texture with visible raw ingredients. The scent is very nice as it smells of lavender. It hardens on the skin but it is not irritating and it is easy to remove the mask with lukewarm water. The skin after use is refreshed and smooth.
We are a well-established association of four international companies: YJN Europe, YJN UK, YJN Co., and YJN Partners. Our focus is bringing our customers top-notch services in marketing support, beauty industry research, CPNP registration, and updating them with the latest information about the Korean beauty industry. We are also the first and only publisher of a k-beauty magazine (The K-beauty insight). Our vision is to become the European hub for Korean beauty, centralizing manufacturers, importers, distributors, and retailers.
CONTACT FOR MANUFACTURERS & BRAND OWNERS:
The effectiveness of experimental marketing strategies in the cosmetics market through AI cosmetic device analysis is as follows: When it comes to the impact of consumer experiences of AI beauty devices on satisfaction, brand affiliation, and intent to buy, the more positive the use of AI beauty devices, convenience, and technology is perceived, the higher the satisfaction. 37.4% of female consumers were satisfied with the entertainment of experiential marketing. Therefore, with the advent of artificial intelligence and the proliferation of ICT-based platforms, mobile virtual
46
Artificial intelligence has become more popular today thanks to increased data volume, advanced algorithms, and improvements in computing power and storage. There are several ways to use AI in the beauty industry for dynamic personalised content. Capture and digitise products, content, and customer data. Label and organise data in easy-to-use, structured formats. Optimise costs through data-driven decisions. With the fourth industrial revolution, thanks to artificial intelligence, the cosmetics industry provides a variety of experience-related services.
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Adobe Stock
What types of AI applications are currently in use in the beauty and cosmetics industry?
beauty applications or diagnostic devices should evolve into solutions that help individuals choose skincare and cosmetics through big data, rather than remain on temporary elements focused on entertainment. Estée Lauder In 2019, Estée Lauder called upon Perfect Corp’s YouCam Makeup virtual try-on-colour-match experience to create the iMatch Virtual Shade Expert, which offers customers a way to find their preferred shade of Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup and Futurist Hydra Rescue Moisturising Makeup and to see it virtually applied in real-time. Following the Shade Expert’s success and awareness of the mounting need for at-home solutions in the wake of the pandemic, Estée Lauder once again partnered with Perfect Corp late last year to build iMatch Virtual Skin Analysis, a self-guided digital skincare diagnostic tool that leverages the latest YouCam A.I. technology to reveal what skin needs with a personalised skincare regimen. Johnson & Johnson Similarly, Neutrogena, owned by personal care and medical behemoth Johnson & Johnson, sought the help of Perfect Corp in early 2020 to create an updated version of its Skin360 app, a skin analysis tool that previously required a separate $60 phone attachment. Perfect Corp’s YouCam technology allowed the app to instead provide a 180-degree selfie analysis simply using a smartphone camera and an algorithm. Developed in partnership between the Taiwan firm and Johnson & Johnson’s research and development team, it analyses more than 100,000 skin pixels over 2,000 facial attributes and offers more than 2.5 million possible product recommendations. Since its relaunch, the Skin360 app has seen more than 115,000 downloads, a rise in popularity that Neutrogena believes can be attributed to the increasing demand for at-home, dermatologist-gradeskin assessment. Collaboration with social media The brand also collaborated with Google and YouTube late last year to utilise its new Virtual Try-On technology, allowing consumers to try on Neutrogena’s lip shades alongside their favourite beauty influencers while watching their YouTube videos, and it is currently working with Amazon’s makeup try-on technology. But after paying close attention to the consumer shift to online shopping during the pandemic, Neutrogena has created its virtual try-on solution, with the help of Perfect Corp’s YouCam Makeup technology, and it is set to launch within the first quarter of 2021. AI algorithms Artificial intelligence algorithms can be used to analyse customer feedback. By combining computer vision and NLP, AI algorithms can analyse comments, reviews, and opinions posted by customers on websites, social media, and other online platforms. NLP and computer vision can also be used to analyse feedback from physical documents such as questionnaires and feedback forms that are distributed to customers at retail outlets. Businesses can analyse the data to create the products customers are most likely to buy. For example, Avon developed mascara using its Genius algorithm, which reads, analyses, and organises user comments and suggestions. The mascara was created taking into account the suggestions and opinions of users. Virtual tryouts Thanks to artificial intelligence, people can tryout thousands of products virtually. They can wear virtual makeup products like lipsticks, foundations, lip glosses and eye shadows without having to remove the existing shade and then try a new one, which is tedious when done manually. Users can easily see what the products will look like in a virtual mirror. This helps to increase customer satisfaction with their purchases. In addition, companies can save costs in producing demo and testing products as these will become obsolete with the introduction of artificial intelligence.
1. Proven Skincare is a consumer app that uses machine learning to create individual skincare regimens based on a customer’s unique skin type. 2. Function of Beauty is an application developed by its namesake company that offers customised shampoo and conditioner to customers. The company claims that the application uses machine learning algorithms to develop custom shampoo formulas based on each customer’s hair type and the treatments it needs such as conditioners, waxes, and oils. 3. Coty offers an augmented reality virtual mirror software that it calls Magic Mirror. It uses computer vision technology and was developed in collaboration with digital creative studio Holition and digital marketing company Perch Interactive. Coty claims the mirror allows customers to virtually wear products from the Bourjois Rouge Velvet Lipstick collection. Bourjois is one of Coty’s product lines. 4. ModiFace offers augmented reality applications that include Skin AI, an anti-ageing and skincare simulation application for the beauty and medical industries. The company claims that the video-based application is able to detect and quantify changes in the skin, as well as predict changes in the skin condition after the use of a skin product 5. Perfect Corp. offers a smartphone application that allows customers to use augmented reality to test a variety of makeup looks.
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46%
This report is the first part of a series of market-orientated articles that will cover a wide range of topics related to market, trends, customer behaviour, marketing and marketing strategies. The year 2020 was a very challenging time for us as humans. For the majority, it was a time of significant struggles with money, job, or business because of a world pandemic that touched almost every country on Earth. We came face-to-face with a new reality that created new habits and new customer needs. Therefore, it is intriguing to conduct a market analysis before and after 2020 and to study how consumer needs have changed at the turn of the recent event.
Age significance Information from the literature review shows that the average annual cosmetic expenditure increases by age, so that older consumers spend significantly more than their younger counterparts. For instance, in the UK, consumers over the age of 65 spend more than three times as much on 'health and beauty' than consumers aged 19-24 (Kantar Worldpanel, 2014, as reported by Statista, 2015). European women over the age of 60 spend three times as much on skincare as women under 25 (Credit Suisse, 2013).
49%
BABY BOOMER Born Between 1944 - 1964
21%
41%
MARKET ANALYSIS
Statistics show younger generations are more convinced that using skincare cosmetics can affect our health. However, the tendency is the opposite when it comes to hair care products. There are no statistically significant differences in the belief that you should understand what skincare products you use.
HAIR CARE
The 2010s were a time of many transformations, especially in the realm of technology with the boom of social media. Beauty trends were no longer limited. They could be published and shared by anyone on a global scale and disseminated on platforms such as Instagram, Tumblr, or Pinterest. Some of these trends have survived after the ’10 years, becoming the background of the cosmetics industry in our new decade, and some we would rather leave behind.
SKINCARE
GEN X Born Between 1965 - 1979
GEN Z MILLENNIALS GEN X BOOMERS
40%
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GEN Z Born Between 1995 - 2015
50
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7%
PART 1
20%
" Generation Z is quickly becoming the biggest generation of consumers. Gen Z uses technology to research and review items before purchasing them in-store later."
28%
BEFORE AND AFTER THE COVID19
2010 – 2019
MILLENNIAL Born Between 1980 - 1994
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2020 - 2021
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The coronavirus spread A novel coronavirus was identified as the cause by Chinese authorities on January 7, 2020. On February 11, 2020, the World Health Organisation announced an official name for the disease, causing the 2019 novel coronavirus pandemic, abbreviated to COVID-19. Because of that event, 2020 was a redefining year for beauty tech. As consumer values and expectations shifted, big beauty corporates and start-ups alike have been forced to adapt.
The British Beauty Council’s 2020 Value of Beauty report found influencer marketing had once more given the industry a notable boost in economic capacity, expanding on a 2017 study, which found for every $1 spent on influencer marketing, brands secured a return of investment of around $11.45. Consumer behaviour changes Consumers in 2020 prefer contactless purchases, which the beauty and cosmetics industry is beginning to deliver on, with the help of technology powered by artificial intelligence (AI). Additionally, the use of augmented reality, community outreach via social media and highly personalised experiences will be revenue drivers for years to come. For example, frommid-July to August 2020, a filter showcasing freckles on users’ faces became quite the rage among Gen Z and millennial members on Instagram.
" 72% of Gen Z and millennials follow influencers on social media. Most of them say that social media is where they most often learn about new products they’re interested in."
This started intuitive beauty and beauty brands that teamed up with beauty influencers to create ‘fake freckle tutorials’ to promote their eyebrow pencils! This is a real-time example of how the combined power of augmented reality, the power of community and social media helped carve out a path for the consumer to visit and shop from the websites of beauty brands. The question is, how can beauty and beauty brands stand out from the competition to meet the needs of an easily bored customer in 2020? The answer is 360-degree dynamic personalisation! On average, for June 2020, July 2020 and August 2020 millennials in our survey reported spending 2.5, 1.5 and 1.3 times as much respectively online as baby boomers, Gen X and Gen Z respectively. At the same time, millennial online spending represented a higher share of their total expenditure, at 53%, compared with other cohorts. Gen X spends 47% of their total expenditure online, while Gen Z spends 44%; baby boomers lag, at only 37%. However, it is this last group—the baby boomers- who have demonstrated the biggest shift to online spending since the start of the pandemic.
Baby boomers’ online spending as a share of their total expenditure has grown by 12% to 37%, from 25% pre-Covid. Similarly, Gen X has increased online spending as a share of total expenditure by 8% from 39% to 47% during the pandemic. Gen Z, on the other hand, demonstrated a smaller increase of 3% from 41% to 44%. New online shopping behaviour Once restrictions ease, new online shopping behaviours look likely to continue among younger generations (millennials and Gen Z) but are less likely to persist for older generations (baby boomers and Gen X), who place a higher value on the ability to bring products home right away. Online spending as a share of total spending is expected to decrease by nine and six percentage points respectively for baby boomers and Gen X, but by only four percentage points for younger generations. Return to old ways? Baby boomers are most likely to return to stores, as this generation is estimated to see a 9% decrease in online shopping post-pandemic. For younger generations, the decline isn’t expected to be quite as steep, with 6% of Gen X and 4% of millennials and Gen Z lowering their online spending. While online shopping is especially convenient, it can’t rival the instant gratification or unique opportunity to try out certain products that can only be experienced at stores. However, baby boomers demonstrated the largest shift to e-commerce since the start of the pandemic, with an increase from 25% to 37%.
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Ingredient
Korean skincare: your answer to every issue
List of skincare ingredients based on Google data searched for the most within the UK during 2020.
POPULAR SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS
No. of searches
The key ingredients found in most cosmetics are water, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, moisturisers, dyes and fragrances. The ingredients can be natural or artificial, but the potential impact on our health depends mainly on the chemicals they are made of. For this reason, as we wrote in the previous content, more and more products and natural ingredients are gaining popularity. So far, however, the popularity of unnatural ingredients that work well and faster cannot be denied.
Using Google data from January to June 2019 and comparing it to January to June 2020, we can see the ingredients that have piqued our interest the most.
Vitamin C
1, 211, 000
Retinol
915, 500
Castor Oil
683,000
Hyaluronic Acid
556,600
Squalane
375,400
Salicylic Acid
370,000
Benzoyl Peroxide
343,550
Witch Hazel
282,200
Niacinamide
275,900
Ceramides
204,300
Lactic Acid
111,450
Activated Charcoal
104,850
Clay
98,450
Alpha Arbutin
94,750
Azelaic Acid
94,000
Peptides
84,450
Resveratrol
76,150
Algin
50,700
Zinc Oxide
47,300
% increase
217 %
204 %
182 %
181 %
174 %
Bakuchiol
166 %
151 %
PHA
121 %
111 %
Aloe Vera
104 %
3. Niacinimide Niacinamide is one of the two forms of vitamin B3, the other being nicotinic acid. Vitamin B3 is also known as niacin. Niacinamide and nicotinic acid both provide vitamin B3 activity, but they differ in chemical structure and how they affect your health.
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6. Lactic Acid Lactic acid, or lactate, is a chemical by-product of anaerobic respiration — the process by which cells produce energy without oxygen around. Bacteria produce it in yoghurt and our guts. Lactic acid is also in our blood, where it's deposited by muscle and red blood cells.
ISSUE: WRINKLES AND FINE LINES
4. Ceramides Ceramides are lipids (fats) that occur naturally in the skin. They make up over 50% of the skin’s composition, so it’s no wonder they play such a crucial role in protecting your skin against environmental threats and helping it look younger.
5. Glycolic acid Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA) that's derived from sugar cane. It joins other acids you might recognise, such as lactic acid (derived from sour milk and purportedly a favourite of Cleopatra's), tartaric acid (from grapes), and citric acid—which, you might guess, comes from citrus fruits.
2. Hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan, is a clear, gooey substance naturally produced by our body. Substantial amounts of it are found in your skin, connective tissue and eyes.
Non-natural ingredients 1. Retinol Retinol is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A, an essential antioxidant for healthy eyes and skin. Because the body cannot produce this vitamin on its own, it needs to be supplied by diet or topical skincare.
Natural ingredients 1. Vitamin C Ascorbic acid is vitamin C, an antioxidant that’s sometimes used as a dietary supplement or to prevent and treat scurvy (a disease caused by a lack of vitamin C in the body). 2. Glycerine Glycerine, a non-toxic, odourless and colourless liquid, it may sound like a synthetic but this ingredient is, in fact, naturally occurring in all lipids (i.e. fats), including the skin. 3. Olive oil Olive oil is a liquid fat obtained from olives a traditional tree crop of the Mediterranean basin, produced by pressing whole olives and extracting the oil. 4. Argan Argan, a plant oil produced from the kernels of the Argan tree (Argania Spinosa L.) that is endemic to Morocco. In Morocco, argan oil is used to dip bread in at breakfast or to drizzle on couscous or pasta. It is also used for cosmetic purposes. 5. Carrot seeds Carrot seeds: these are not true seeds in a botanical sense; they are dry fruits called 'schizocarps'. The carrot is not a fruit in the common understanding, so there are no seeds inside or on the carrot.
8. Coenzyme Q10 Coenzyme Q10, also known as ubiquinone, it is a vitamin-like, fat-soluble substance naturally present in the body. A handful of studies have shown that coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) may improve the appearance of ageing.
6. Green Tea extract This healthy drink contains high levels of antioxidant chemicals — including catechins, such as epigallocatechin gallate, and flavonoids, such as kaempferol and theaflavin. These chemicals make green tea an excellent natural anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing ingredient in skincare. 7. Grape seed extract Grape seed extract (GSE) is a dietary supplement made by removing, drying, and pulverising the bitter-tasting seeds of grapes. 8. Jojoba Jojoba has a variety of names including goat nut, deer nut, quinine nut and coffee berry. The non-fragrant oil is produced from the seed of the jojoba shrub which is native to the west coast of the USA and north-western Mexico. 9. Bakuchiol Bakuchiol: this is a plant-based alternative to retinoids used in skincare products for mild exfoliation and anti-ageing. 10. Peptides These molecules occur naturally in living organisms. Some peptides can stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles.
7. Collagen In cosmetics and personal care products, hydrolysed collagen is used primarily in hair preparations and skin care products. Several studies have shown that collagen peptides or supplements containing collagen may slow the ageing of your skin by reducing wrinkles and dryness.
elsa olofsson by Unsplash
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Non-natural ingredients 1. Retinol It is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A, an antioxidant that is essential for healthy eyes and skin. Because the body cannot produce this vitamin on its own, it needs to be supplied by diet and/or topical skincare. 2. Niacinimide Niacinamide is one of the two forms of Vitamin B3, the other being nicotinic acid. Vitamin B3 is also known as niacin. Niacinamide and nicotinic acid both provide Vitamin B3 activity, but they differ in chemical structure and in the way they affect your health. 3. Hydroquinone Hydroquinone is a bleaching agent that gets rid of dark spots while also slowing down the release of melanin. This ingredient works best for darker spots on all skin tones, but you may need to avoid it if you have sensitive skin. 4. Chemical peel Chemical peel: for acne-related hyperpigmentation, chemical peels work to reduce the appearance of dark spots. OTC versions remove the epidermis only. In case of exceptionally dark spots, you may need to get a professional peel from your dermatologist that targets the dermis (middle layer).
Natural ingredients 1. Vitamin C Ascorbic acid is vitamin C, an antioxidant that’s sometimes used as a dietary supplement or to prevent and treat scurvy (a disease caused by a lack of vitamin C in the body). 2. Liquorice extract The anti-inflammatory properties of liquorice extract make this one of the best natural ingredients to treat redness and rosacea. And the plant has also been shown to reduce uneven pigmentation by blocking the production of melanin. 3. Kojic acid This is a naturally occurring hydrophilic fungal product derived from certain species of Acetobacter, Aspergillus, and Penicillium. It reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of free tyrosinase and is also a potent antioxidant. 4. Azelaic acid It helps the skin to renew itself more quickly and therefore reduces pimple and blackhead formation. It also helps to kill the bacteria that cause acne and rosacea. Azelaic acid topical (for the skin) is also used to treat acne and rosacea. 5. Snail mucin Snail mucin secretion filtrate: it hydrates the skin, increases suppleness, improves hyper-pigmentation, and contains antimicrobial properties that can keep acne and some types of rosacea at bay.
ISSUE: HYPER-PIGMENTATION
4. Vitamin E Vitamin E boosts the immune system and helps to keep blood clots from forming. It also helps to prevent cell damage caused by free radicals (highly reactive chemicals). 5. Honey It's loaded with antioxidants, cleansing properties, and has a substantial amount of vitamins and nutrients because, don't forget, honey is made for baby bees that need all the nutrients to grow big and strong. Honey can clean your pores in a major way thus reducing their appearance.
Natural ingredients 1. Green Tea Extract This healthy drink contains high levels of antioxidant chemicals — including catechins, such as epigallocatechin gallate, and flavonoids, such as kaempferol and theaflavin. These chemicals make green tea an excellent natural anti-inflammatory and skinsoothing ingredient in skincare. 2. Apple cider vinegar This ingredient is a fermented liquid distilled from apple cider. It’s cheap and has a variety of uses. You can consume it or apply it to your skin, either way, there are handy benefits. 3. Argan oil From the fruit of the Moroccan argan tree, this non-fragrant oil is used in both food (think of the oil used for dipping bread) and cosmetics. It’s packed with nutrients. Overall a real powerhouse ingredient for maintaining strong, supple and elastic skin. 4. Clay This is an absorbent aluminium-based clay and is found fairly abundantly in nature. 5. Witch hazel This may prevent acne-causing bacteria from infecting your skin. For this reason, witch hazel is commonly added to many over-the-counter acne products and is especially useful for individuals with oily skin.
ISSUE: DRY SKIN
ISSUE: OILY SKIN
Non-natural ingredients 1. Hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan, is a clear, gooey substance that is naturally produced by your body. The largest amounts of it are found in the skin, connective tissue and eyes. 2. Squalene Squalane is created by hydrogenating squalene which means treating it with hydrogen to give it a non-reactive, saturated structure. That structure makes it great for inclusion in hydrating products for your skin or on its own as a gentle moisturiser.
Natural ingredients 1. Grape seed extract Grape seed extract (GSE) is a dietary supplement made by removing, drying, and pulverizing the bitter-tasting seeds of grapes. 2. Glycerine Glycerin is a non-toxic, odourless and colourless liquid; it may sound like a synthetic but this ingredient is, in fact, naturally occurring in all lipids (i.e. fats), including the skin. 3. Aloe Vera You can find this little succulent in tropical climates all over the world. It’s a versatile plant that’s used in many consumer products from beverages to cosmetics to lotions.
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Non-natural ingredients 1. Retinol This is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A, an antioxidant that is essential for healthy eyes and skin. Because the body cannot produce this vitamin on its own, it needs to be supplied by diet and/or topical skincare. 2. Salicylic acid Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that occurs as a natural compound in plants. It has direct activity as an anti-inflammatory agent and acts as a topical antibacterial agent due to its ability to promote exfoliation. 3. Niacinimide Niacinamide is one of the two forms of Vitamin B3, the other being nicotinic acid. Vitamin B3 is also known as niacin. Niacinamide and nicotinic acid both provide Vitamin B3 activity, but they differ in chemical structure and the way they affect your health.
1. Activated charcoal Its toxin-absorbing properties have a wide range of medicinal and cosmetic uses, though none are scientifically proven. Superheating natural sources of carbon, such as wood, produces activated charcoal. 2. Glycolic acid Glycolic acid is a naturally occurring, active compound derived from sugar cane. It's part of the alpha-hydroxy acid group, along with lactic acid, tartaric acid and citric acid. 3. Azelaic acid It helps the skin to renew itself more quickly and therefore reduces pimple and blackhead formation. It also helps to kill the bacteria that cause acne and rosacea. Azelaic acid for the skin is used to treat acne and rosacea. 4. Clay Clay is an absorbent aluminium based clay and is found fairly abundantly in nature. 5. Honey It's loaded with antioxidants, cleansing properties, and has a substantial amount of vitamins and nutrients because, don't forget, honey is made for baby bees that need all the nutrients to grow big and strong. Honey can clean your pores in a major way thus reducing their appearance.
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K- BEAUTY
lookstudio by Freepik
1. Salicylic Acid Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that occurs as a natural compound in plants. It has direct activity as an anti-inflammatory agent and acts as a topical antibacterial agent due to its ability to promote exfoliation. 2. Lactic Acid Lactic acid: (lactate) is a chemical by-product of anaerobic respiration — the process by which cells produce energy without oxygen around. Bacteria produce it in yoghurt and our guts. Lactic acid is also in our blood, where it's deposited by muscle and red blood cells. 3. Niacinimide Niacinamide is one of the two forms of vitamin B3 — the other being nicotinic acid. Vitamin B3 is also known as niacin. Niacinamide and nicotinic acid both provide vitamin B3 activity, but they differ in chemical structure and the way they affect your health.
Natural ingredients
ISSUE: LARGE PORES
Non-natural ingredients
"Due to the fact that they are mostly natural cosmetics, they significantly improve the quality of my skin, do not clog and are also environmentally friendly, I appreciate each of these features."
"Good composition, no allergic reactions, noticeable effect."
Each of the chosen influencers belongs to one of the three following groups: 1. Beauty industry, 2. Lifestyle and 3. Presenting Korean culture.
Magdalena Zielant, Poland/ Nigeria @ohhkiki_ 19,9k followers
K-BEAUTY IN POLAND AND EUROPE
Hanna Kepa, Poland @hania.kepa 19,1k followers
Influencers with several or several thousand followers are most likely to take part in the survey. The group moderately interested in the research is a group of influencers with around 100-200 thousand followers. So far, two of them have expressed their willingness to participate in the study. The third group are influencers with over half a million/million followers. They do not reply to messages.
Korean skincare is mostly purchased via Yesstyle.com, Klassysassy.pl, Jolse, Style Korean, Wishtrend, Ebay, Hebe, Rossman, Superpharm, Cocolita. The top favourite Korean brands include Medicube, Aprilskin, Corsx, The Skin House Tiam, Hanyul, Ariul, Tony Moly, HolikaHolika, Missha, Skin79, HERA, Lapothicell, Whamisha, PyunkangYul, and Purito. Other, non-Korean beauty brands used by influencers are Vichy, La Roche Posay, Nivea, Miya, Gladerma, Dermedic, Veoli, Iossi, Garnier, Maybeline, Ziaja, Dior, Tołpa, Bioderma, Oiolab, and Ilia serum.
Porzia Carlone, Italy @porziacarlone 7 568 followers
"The solutions of Korean companies often work better for me than the solutions of domestic companies."
How do influencers evaluate the effectiveness of Korean cosmetics?
"Korean cosmetics are very good for Polish women, mainly because they have a very advanced technology of creating and obtaining natural extracts from plants that are not available in Poland."
We have contacted 38 influencers from nine European countries asking them to share their opinion about Korean cosmetics. For this purpose, a questionnaire was created in Google Forms in two languages, English and Polish, and sent to them by e-mail or via DM on Instagram. You can find the link at the end of this page.
50% of respondents declare 100% satisfaction with the use of Korean cosmetics. On a satisfaction scale from 1 to 10, they chose 10, where 1 is the least and 10 is the most; 12,5% of respondents declare that they use only Korean skincare products; 25% say that many brands that are cheap in Korea can be bought at quite high prices, and more interesting brands are not available. The remaining 75% believe that Korean cosmetics are easy to buy in their country. The top three most-used Korean cosmetics are face cream, serum and mask.
"I find Korean cosmetics very functional. I love double cleansing."
Dominika Terlecka, Poland @beetwendots 7.5k followers
Our survey results show that 100% of the surveyed influencers have an Instagram account, 50% have their channel on YouTube and 25% have other social media channels as well; 100% of respondents use Korean cosmetics;
Martyna Ciesielska, Poland @martynqqqa 15.5k followers
"Often an innovative product formula, composition, method of application and care routine."
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Martyna Doh, Poland/ S. Korea @po_polsku_po_koreansku 1k followers
81,5% OF USERS WITH INTERNET ACCESS SEARCH THE WEB FOR PRODUCTS OR SERVICES
The camera image overlaid with 3D graphics Real- time view Apps: Proven Skincare, Function of beauty, My Beauty Matches Recommended to try: My Beauty Matches
Beauty industry presents… AI&AR for fun.
80 % OF ORGANIZATIONS IMPLEMENTING AI SEE THEIR PROJECTS FAIL
The effectiveness of augmented reality technology is confirmed by the sales results of the aforementioned Sephora and Procter & Gamble companies using Modiface. The support of such virtual mirrors at points of sale was examined and it turned out that they increased product sales, as customers trusted the real-time views of what applications were giving them.
AUGMENTED REALITY
90,4% OF USERS VISITED THE WEBSITE OR ONLINE STORE THEY WERE INTERESTED IN
Artificial intelligence (AI) is a wide-ranging branch of computer science concerned with building smart machines and systems. It is creating a paradigm shift in virtually every sector of the tech industry. AI has a very great potential to quickly develop and master all areas of life. Every major tech company spends resources on artificial intelligence. Many beauty brands, including MAC, Estée Lauder, Clinique, L'Oréal and Neutrogena, use artificial intelligence to customise user experiences and create products that appeal to younger consumers. In this article you will find out the level of development of AI in the cosmetics industry and whether this level is satisfactory for our times. Thanks to access to mobile devices and the internet, technology is available to everyone and makes it easier for us to make decisions and do everyday activities. For this reason, AI has the door open to step into the industry.
Test/ Quiz There is no learning that occurs Apps: Perfect Corp, Coty, Modiface, Skin360 Recommended to try: Coty
AI: REACTIVE MACHINES
66,6% OF THE POPULATION USE MOBILE PHONES AND 60% HAVE ACCESS TO THE INTERNET
SO FAR APPLICATIONS USED IN THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY BELONG TO TWO GROUPS:
AI: with or against us?
Virtual vs. real-life beauty Currently, there are available applications using AR that allow us to virtually apply a shade of lipstick or eyeshadow. Sounds good. But are such solutions suitable for everyday life? How can we be sure that in the daylight, the lipstick will still look as good as it does in the virtual mirror? We cannot and we should not because the shade is not the same. This is not enough to say that it enables virtual testing of the product. Potential effects We are being informed in regulations that the results only illustrate the potential effects. There is no guarantee that the result will be identical or equivalent to the effect of the actual use of cosmetics. It is a technology that we can use to edit our photos in Photoshop but not rely on for purchase. Reality check Below are presented three examples of different shades of lipstick and those shades applied on the photo in the virtual mirror. It looks nice but we don’t have any confirmation that the colour will be the same in reality. Examples are sourced from the Maybelline New York website using the app PerfectCorp. Need for personalisation On the other hand, applications that offer a quiz (a multiple-choice test) look very simple. The questions aim at the skin condition, the food consumed, the length of sleep, exposure to stress, and more. These types of tests based on generalisation do not offer any personalised solution. Every person´s skin is different and needs an individual approach that cannot be fulfilled by merely answering a few basic questions. These tests can only point the consumer in the general direction.
perfectcorp.com
Sephora.com
Advantages 1. Enables the production of personalised cosmetics by analysing customers’ answers and actions 2. Cosmetic applications have a great value to cosmetic companies due to the valuable data generated because artificial intelligence algorithms can be used to analyse customer feedback. Businesses can analyse the data to create the products customers are most likely to buy 3. Possibility to try a range of make-up without having to remove the existing shade which is tedious when done manually. Disadvantages 1. Does not enable virtual testing of the product 2. Does not offer personalised solutions 3. Multiple choice test is too simple and not good enough 4. Virtual make-up is unreliable 5. No virtual try-on applications for skincare products such as creams, ampoules or face masks 6. Only 37.4% of female consumers were satisfied with the entertainment of experiential marketing In my opinion current AI beauty industry applications do not fulfil two of three main pillars: enable virtual testing of the product and offer personalised solutions. However, it does play an important role by analysing and collecting valuable data based on customer actions, which enables the production of personalised cosmetics—which is the third pillar. Therefore, with the advantage of artificial intelligence and the proliferation of ICT-based platforms, mobile virtual beauty applications or diagnostic devices should evolve into solutions that help individuals choose skincare and cosmetics through big data, rather than remain on temporary elements focused on entertainment. By combining computer vision and NLP, AI algorithms can analyse comments, reviews, and opinions posted by customers on websites, social media, and other online platforms. NLP and computer vision can also be used to analyse feedback from physical documents such as questionnaires and feedback forms that are distributed to customers at retail outlets. For example, Avon developed mascara using its Genius algorithm, which reads, analyses and organises user comments and suggestions. The mascara was created taking into account the suggestions and opinions of users.
macrovector by Freepik
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Nowadays we are pulling back from traditional mass media. All the communication, sales, and reliable information about the world have been transferred to the internet. Currently, the most important value for people is TIME. People don’t want to waste their time on research and considering the good and bad sides of each purchase or other action. Everyone has his/her spots where they can seek reliable information such as websites, online portals, groups, or influencers.
pikisuperstar by Freepoik
Social Media Marketing
Bigger doesn’t always mean better. The social media platforms that beauty brands should consider the most are Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, LinkedIn, Tik-Tok, Pinterest and Twitter, ranked below by number of active users in millions in July 2021.
GENERATION X
GENERATION Y
GENERATION Z
Analysing the percentage of users on each popular social media platform we can see an influence of traditional gender roles. Platforms such as Twitter 70% (focused on politics and global issues) and LinkedIn 57% (focused on jobs) are dominated by men. On Facebook and YouTube female and male communities have the same percentage distribution: 56% male users and 44% female users. This score is very close to TikTok where there are 53% registered male users compared to 47% female users. The reason is likely the videos for all and for Facebook, plus it is a multi-option platform. Instagram presents an interesting statistic: equal 50% percentage dis- tribution. Last but not least, Pinterest, which is 77% dominated by women. This platform enables the sharing of visual materials between users where women seek ideas and inspiration. This portal allows users to save pictures and create vision boards.
social media by gender, 2021
social media by generation, 2021
BABY BOOMERS
by Freepik
Pros Looking for answers - YouTube is the second largest search engine in Looking for recommendations It shows, not tells People use it for entertainment, to relax, de-stress, to learn and take inspiration. Cons Free YouTube version is full of advertising that pops up any time during watching YouTube politics allows it to remove videos or block user’s favourite channels anytime
Top three social media platforms
TikTok future In my opinion it is worth focusing on the newest popular social media platform, TikTok. It is gaining popularity very fast. After Facebook, it is the second-most downloaded app in 2021. TikTok is actually the most efficient social media network with a commitment rate of 4.9%, followed by Instagram (1.07%), YouTube (0.5%), Facebook (0.15%), and Twitter (0.03%). There is a high possibility that in the nearest future TikTok will become a pioneer of internet marketing. Golden influencers A good leader is not one who just tells a story but who makes users discover it themselves. It is important to get your audience involved. Ask for opinions or give room for discussion. Posting on many social media channels at the same time is very time-consuming. Brands hire people separately responsible for it or they use marketing agencies. For this reason, because as rational beings we are still developing and new solutions are constantly being created, which are adjusted to the prevailing needs, we change the strategy. The newest and most beneficial marketing trend is to cooperate with social media influencers who can recommend specific products. Influencers are very close to their audience. They are gathering people in groups interested in the same topic and very often give them space to chat and exchange experiences in comments. Influencers will create the right content for us and they will stream it on their social media. Influencers have an incredible power to influence customer opinions and decision making by being trustworthy. They are the main source of information nowadays because people often seek reviews of a given product before buying it themselves. Immersive experience People don’t just want to read anymore, and not even just watch. They want to experience. Every business can create an amazing engagement by immersive experience. It can be done by organising events online or even outdoors. An immersive experience is literally about feeling, touch and smell.
Pros Connecting with friends and old friends Birthday reminders Entertainment Facebook is still growing and improving and does not slow down Facebook has no competition. Every generation is using Facebook. Facebook recognises and bans any criminal or inappropriate activity Cons addictive concentration on physical appearance or popularity.
Marketing focus
Pros Instagram entertains, relaxes and de-stresses Possibility to build a positive appearance People like its globality Users learn and take inspiration After TikTok it has the second-highest engagement Cons Addictive Too many stimuli
45 % CUSTOMERS OF BEAUTY BRANDS LOOK FOR OTHER PEOPLE´S OPINION BEFORE PURCHASE
41 % custoMERS DISCOVER NEW BRANDS OR PRODUCTS VIA ADS SEEN ON SOCIAL MEDIA
POCKET GUIDE TO SOCIAL MEDIA marketing
1. Create a marketing persona It will answer questions about who your buyers and audience are. 2. Choose social media platform For each industry, the reach in social media is different. Find your own but focus on multi-channel promotion. 3. Create unique content Keep an open mind and be independent. Find your voice and speak. 4. Nurture consumer-brand relationship Be positive and look to the long-term. 5. Be active and consistent Follow the rules of consistent posting on each platform. 6. Build trust Be transparent and have clear actions. 7. Earn loyalty Ask for opinions, share content, offer discounts. It determines future purchases. 8. Create community Build trust and engage customers. 9. Satisfy customers Listen, pay attention and understand their needs. 10. Post meaningful content Make it valuable, attractive and easy to use. 11. Educate about the product. Raise awareness about the product. 12. Listen to and join the conversation On social media, customers can discuss issues in which they are interested. Use it. 13. Generate engagement Boosting online engagement levels is the best way to keep customers interested. 14. Analyse results Always conclude and learn from mistakes.
...your ultimate guide to Korean beauty
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www.kbeautyinsight.com
2018
2019
April 30th Annex II The “1384”entry 2-Chloro-p-Phenylenediamine was added to the list of prohibited substances. Hair dye products, including eyebrow tinting products and eyelash tinting products containing this substance are prohibited: from 22.11.2019 - shall not be placed on the Union market, from 22.02.2020 - shall not be made available on the Union market. Annex III Substances “32” and “310” both called Climbazolewith chemical name 1-(4-Chlorophenoxy)- 1-(imidazol-1-yl)-3,3- dimethylbutan-2-one. For entry “32”a maximum concentration in ready for use preparation is 0,2% for hair lotions, face creams, foot care products and 0,5% for rinse-off shampoo. For entry “310” it is 2,0% and only for purposes other than inhibiting the development of micro-organisms in the product. Annex IV Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine by entry “31” which can be used up to 5% concentration in ready for use preparation is added to Annex VI. It cannot be used in applications that may lead to exposure of the end user's lungs by inhalation. May 22th Annex II 226 substances such as chlorides, acids, salts. For instance boric acid, perboric acid, cobalt, nickel, hydroxylamide, petroleum, cadmium are added to the list of substances prohibited in cosmetic products. Annex III In Annex III are delated entries “1a”, “1b”, “7”, “13” and “51”. Entry “12” is replaced and provide the following maximum concentration in ready for use preparation (present or released.): a) hair products 12 % of H2O2, b) skin products 4 % of H2O2 c) nail hardening products 2 % of H2O2 d) oral products ≤ 0,1 % of H2O2, e) tooth whitening or bleaching products, concentration of H2O2, f) products intended for eyelashes for professional use only 2 % of H2O2. Entries “311” and “312” are added. For Trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine a maximum level of concentration is 5% for professional use only. For Furfural is only 0,001% of a maximum concentration in ready for use preparation. Annex V The point 2 of preamble is replaced with an information that every product which contain formaldehyde on over 0,05% concentration in the finished product must be labelled with the warning ‘contains formaldehyde’. Entries “5”, “31”, “40”, and “41” are delated. Polyaminopropyl biguanide is replaced and can be used up to 0,1 % but is prohibited in applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user's lungs by inhalation. November 6th Annex V Hydroxyethoxyphenyl Butanone can be used up to 0,7%. Annex VI Titanium Dioxide (nano) cannot be used on the lips and in applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation. Can be used up to 25%. November 27th Annex II 31 substances are added to the list such as Pirimicarb, Dichloropropane, Phenol, Coumatetralyl, Difenacoum, Tetramethrin, Spirodiclofen, Potassium permanganate. It enters into force from 1 May 2020. Hydroxy-8-quinoline and its sulphate is replaced and shall apply from 11 June 2019 Entries Borates, tetraborates, octaborates and boric acid salts and esters (including 12 positions) and Diaminotoluene, methyl-phenylenediamine are replaced shall apply from 11 June 2019. Annex III Salicylic acid can be used in: a) rinse-off hair products – up to 3% b) other products – up to 2% Salicylic acid cannot be used in: a) body lotion, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, roll-on deodorant b) cosmetics for children under 3 years old c) applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation d) oral products e) for purposes other than inhibiting the development of micro-organisms in the product (this purpose has to be apparent from the presentation of the product). Those regulations apply form 1 May 2020. Oxyqui-noline sulphate is replaced and this regulation applies from 11 June 2019. Methylphenylenediamines is replaced and this regulation applies from 1 May 2020. Annex V Salicylic acid and its salts cannot be used in: a) cosmetics for children under 3 years old except shampoos b) applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation c) oral products Acid can be used up to 0,5 %.
June 20th Anex V Entry “23” is replaced and says that for Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol combained with Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano), the total amount of both cannot exceed the limit 10% of the product. As well the following entry “23a” is inserted. Those substances cannot be used in products that may lead to exposure of the end user's lungs by inhalation. Those Regulations entered into force on the twentieth day following that of its publication in the Official Journal of the European Union. July 9th Annex II Tagetes erecta is added to the list. From 1.05.2019 shall not be placed on the Union market, From 1.08.2019 shall not be made available on the Union market. Annex III A maximum concentration in ready for use preparation for Tagetes minuta and Tagetes patula extracts and oils is defined. It is 0,1% for rinse-off products and 0,01% for leave-on products. Cosmetics that do not meet these requirements: from 1.05.2019 shall not be placed on the Union market, from 1.08.2019 shall not be made available on the Union market. November 26th Annex V In Annex V on entry“7” called o-Phenylphenol is defined maximum concentration in ready for use preparation for rinse-off and leave-on products. Cosmetics that do not meet these requirements: from 17.06.2019 - shall not be placed on the Union market, from 17.09.2019 - shall not be made available on the Union market.
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Cosmetics in the EU are regulated by the Regulation of the European Parliament and of the Council (EC) No. 1223/2009 of November 30, 2009. It is the currently binding legal act regulating the placing of cosmetic products on the market and their distribution in the European Union. The Cosmetics Directive was adopted in 1976. It was reassessed in 2009 to allow for further development. The provisions of the Regulation have been in force since July 11, 2013. Since then every few months and even every few weeks the database is updated and amendments to the act are introduced and should be monitored on an ongoing basis. Let us briefly remind which annexes are included in the Regulation and into which groups are divided banned substances. Annex I– Cosmetic product safety report. Annex II List of substances prohibited in cosmetic products. Annex III – List of substances which cosmetic products must not contain except subject to the restrictions laid down. Annex IV – List of colorants allowed in cosmetic products. Annex V – List of preservatives allowed is cosmetic products. Annex VI – List of UV filters allowed in cosmetics products. Annex VII – Symbols used on packaging/container. Let’s take a look what amendments have been provided for the last 4 yearsto Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products.
Banned ingredients in cosmetics (EU) 2018 - 2021
2021
2020
November 12th Annex II 3 entries are added1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzene, 4-Amino-3-hydroxytoluene, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)-amino]-benzoic acidwhen used as a substance in hair and eyelash dye products. Cosmetics that do not meet these requirements: from 3.08.2021 - shall not be placed on the Union market, from 3.06.2022 - shall not be made available on the Union market. Annex III Entire 2-Methoxymethyl-p-Phenylenediamine and its Sulfate is replaced. For professional use only. All warnings and contraindications are described in detail in the last column. 6 entries are added with specifications forhair dye substances. 2 entries are added with specifications fornail products. This Regulation shall enter into force on the twentieth day following that of its publication in theOfficial Journal of the European Union. Annex VI MethoxypropylaminoCyclohexenylideneEthoxyethylcyanoa- cetate can be used up to 3%. It have to be placed only in nitrite-free containers. It cannot be used: a)in applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation b)with nitrosating agents (maximum nitrosamine content: 50μg/kg) This Regulation shall enter into force on the twentieth day following that of its publication in theOfficial Journal of the European Union. Corrigendum to Commission Regulation (EU) 2020/1683 of 12 November 2020 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products for Page 41, Annex, point 2 b, of the table instead of “318” it should say “320”.
May 26th Annex II 12 substances: Cobalt, Metaldehyde, Methylmercuric chloride, Benzo[rst]pentaphene, Dibenzo[b,def]chrysene, Ethanol, Cyflumetofen, Diisohexyl phthalate, Halosulfuron-methyl, 2-methylimidazole, Metaflumizone, Dibutylbis are added to the list of substances prohibited in cosmetic products. Annex III Salicilic Acid is replaced and it can be used in: a) rinse-off hair products – up to 3% b) other products – up to 2% c) body lotion, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, roll-on deodorant – up to 0,5% Salicylic acid cannot be used in: a) cosmetics for children under 3 years old b) applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation c) oral products d) for purposes other than inhibiting the development of micro-organisms in the product (this purpose has to be apparent from the presentation of the product) Titanium Dioxide is added and it can be used only in pigmentary form in: a)face products in loose powder form – up to 25% b)hair aerosol spray products – up to 1,4% for general consumers and 1,1% for professional use It can be used in other products except applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation. Annex IV Titanium dioxide is replaced by the following: white colour, purity criteria, while in powder form containing 1% or more of particles with aerodynamic diameter ≤ 10μm, to be used in compliance with Annex III. Annex VI Titanium dioxide is replaced by the following: while in powder form containing 1% or more of particles with aerodynamic diameter ≤ 10μm, to be used in compliance with Annex III. The maximum concentration in ready for use preparation is 25% for the products listed up in Annex III.
K BEAUTY INSIGHT
