Global inflation's impact on the cosmetic industry
INSIGHT
The influence of packaging design
Contribution to sustainability
Korean skincare brands
KBEAUTY
Beauty trends 2022
Hand in hand with nature
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CONTACT FOR MANUFACTURERS AND BRAND OWNERS
The K-beauty insight
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EDITORS
Climate change, the COVID-19 pandemic, Russian aggression in Ukraine and international tension are rolling over us like tsunami waves, and we are desperately gasping for air. It sounds like bad science fiction, right? No, this is the sad reality of recent years. Yet we keep on going, living our lives, spreading positive thoughts; keeping ourselves and our beloved ones alive and, ideally, content and happy. That is the new normal. And we have to make the most of it every day, one step at a time. People are resilient. We adjust and heal in time. It is not right to ignore what is happening in the world, but to keep ourselves sane, we need to find a balance. To raise awareness, to donate to those in need and to help others are all amazing things. Yet we have to think about ourselves too. If you honestly want to love others, love yourself. So buy something nice, enjoy little things, go out with your friends, and refocus your attention on what makes you happy. Create a new business strategy that will work for you in the changing environment; think of new ways of attracting people who might be feeling the same as you are, and make the day better for them and yourself. Find that balance.
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letter
Editor's
Lucija Ros by Unsplash
BEAUTY TRENDS 2022
The crucial step in your skincare routine
16
Professional haircare brands at your home
SUN PROTECTION
33
Brands that work with nature not against it
6
EDITOR´S PICK
2
27
BRANDS INTRODUCTIONS
Are we upcycling beauty trends?
Mix and match: have fun with your skincare
HAND IN HAND WITH NATURE
YOUR HAIR IS YOUR CROWN
4
30
THE INFLUENCE OF PACKAGING DESIGN
34
MARKET ANALYSIS
European Comission updates regarding banned and restrected ingredients
What should be your focus as a brand owner, distributor and customer
ENVIRONMENTAL DECISION MAKING
What it means and what can you do to overcome the economic down turn
How to boost your sales and empower your brand with clever design
36
45
Ideas for the beauty industry´s contribution to environmental sustainability
40
CONTRIBUTION TO SUSTAINABILITY
38
GLOBAL INFLATION IMPACT ON THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
UPDATED COSMETIC INGREDIENTS USAGE
BRAND INTRODUCTION
42
HAND IN HAND WITH NATURE:
customer needs analysis trend analysis target and price setting schedule planning
COSHI
Customised product planning
brand management package design cosmetic manufacturing delivery
test for sale overseas certification functional registration trademark registration
Mission COSHI identifies the market for each customer, plans cosmetics that fit the trend, designs the product and secures the manufacturing process and delivery. They also ensure that the product has the necessary cosmetics certification and is ready for the market. They provide customised services from top to bottom. The company develops and manufactures various products such as vegan cosmetics, clean beauty, customised cosmetics, hair care lines, body care lines and treatments for skincare experts. Establishment COSHI, established in 2021, is a cosmetic company founded by Lee Kyounga. She graduated from Dongju University Department of Skin and Beauty and then had worked as a deputy manager for eight years. Her line of work included the production of cosmetics, skincare technique planning and operation of an affiliated skincare salon. Next, she became the director of the skincare department, where she planned therapies and customer care sessions, and lectured on skincare at a university. For the next 10 years she worked as a director in charge of online sales planning, special aesthetic cosmetics planning and cosmetics certification consulting. Finally, in 2021, she founded the COSHI Company, which focuses on brand development and consulting in various areas related to cosmetics and beauty. Chaluv With years of experience in the skincare field, Lee Kyounga decided to establish her own eco-friendly cosmetic brand CHALUV. The brand launched a moisturising green tea line suitable for sensitive skin.
Design & manufacture
Cosmetics certification & registration
The CHALUV (Cha- tea, luv- love) Green Tea line helps the environment by using recycled paper made by mixing green tea with pulp discarded while selecting the packaging material. They are also working hard to use containers that can be recycled using PET when possible. However, the Chaluv Green Tea line is trying to exclude ingredients that are considered harmful or irritating to the skin as much as possible, and avoid using ingredients or raw materials that threaten the environment. Chaluv products are suitable for sensitive skin; they have moisturising and soothing effects and contain 96% Jeju green tea extract. One of the world's three largest green tea plantations is located on Jeju Island. Green tea's effect as a cosmetic ingredient is anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidant; it also has excellent soothing, detoxifying, and whitening effects. The line is alcohol-, fragrance-, and colour-free. The Green Tea Line focuses on three main points: calm, protect, and moisturise the skin.
CHALUV GREEN TEA LINE
Soothing toner
The bubble serum contains 18 essential amino acids that strengthen the skin´s protective barrier. Four differently sized hyaluronic acids help the skin to retain moisture more effectively. The serum is packed with soothing ingredients such as Camellia sinensis leaf extract, aloe vera, Centella asiatica extract, chamomile, oatmeal and allantoin. Mrs Lee Kyounga had people with sensitive skin in mind when developing this serum. She wanted to create a light serum that customers could easily layer without leaving the skin feeling sticky and overwhelmed. She also wanted to use natural soothing ingredients. She came up with a unique foaming container to create rich bubbles without using a chemical compound. Customers can easily layer the serum for a better moisturising effect. It absorbs nicely into the skin leaving it soft and hydrated. The scent is very gentle and the formula, which uses green tea instead of water, is superb.
CHALUV REVIEW
As the name suggests, the toner was designed for people who struggle with regular cosmetics because of the way their sensitive skin reacts. Based on her experiences in a cosmetic salon, Mrs Lee came up with the idea of blending green tea with a saline solution to ensure the soothing and moisturising effect of the toner. Saline is a mixture of sodium chloride (salt) and water and has several uses in medicine. The focus was to create a toner that calms and soothes sensitive skin while providing moisture. The Green Tea Soothing Toner contains Camellia sinensis leaf extract, glycerin, panthenol and allantoin. It comes in a 300 ml PET container with a simple lid. The scent is almost non-existent, and the texture is watery. You can use the toner in the first step of your routine after cleansing and then proceed with a serum. As an extra soothing and moisturising step, you can apply the toner on a cotton pad which you then place on any sensitive area of your skin for five to ten minutes and then follow with the serum.
Bubble serum
The soothing cream contains oil extracted from natural coconut to form a protective film on the skin to inhibit moisture evaporation. Other ingredients include squalane, aloe vera leaf extract, allantoin, shea butter, panthenol, adenosine, and glycosaminoglycans. The primary function of glycosaminoglycans is to support the most important structural proteins of the skin: collagen and elastin. Glycosaminoglycans are water-binding molecules that can hold nearly 1,000 times their weight, which moisturises the skin. The cream comes in a transparent tube and is easily applied. The texture is a rich white cream that moisturises and nourishes the skin. You can use it as the last step before the sun protection cream in your morning routine or as the final step in your evening routine. If you want extra hydration and moisture, apply the cream in a thicker layer as an overnight pack.
Soothing cream
...your ultimate guide to Korean beauty
www.kbeautyinsight.com
BRISNOW
Identity Balgeun Cosmetics, founded in October 2019, aims to create eco-friendly products for people and the environment alike. Later in 2019, they launched the cosmetic brand, BRISNOW, meaning brilliant, bright, and snow. Brisnow's elementary line excludes chemical preservatives, synthetic surfactants, and artificial fragrances. Brisnow products contain natural essential oils to relax your skin and remind you of aromatherapy. The company combines oriental herbs and natural ingredients to create products that will nourish and moisturise your skin and keep it glowing, fresh, and healthy inside and out. The company does not have mass production, manufacturing only smaller amounts of cosmetics. They do not test their products on animals; they respect nature and practice the coexistence of nature and people. Over the years, Brisnow cosmetics expanded outside of South Korea and can be found in Vietnam, Cambodia, China, Singapore, and Japan. Brisnow cosmetics In 2020 they launched three BRISNOW Basic Cosmetics with the dual functions of brightening and wrinkle care. Products included a toner, serum and moisturising cream. In summer 2020, they launched their famous Wrinkle Remover stick and Pink Tone-up Lotion. The next year, BRISNOW added a few more products to their line: Good Antibacterial Deodorant, Good Feminine Cleanser, Peppermint Lotion, Organic Lavender Calming Balm, Good Cleansing Foam and a Tone-up BB Cream.
pH Balancing Whitening Toner
Brisnow toner restores the skin to weak acidity, maintaining a healthy pH balance. The toner has a glass container with a spray cap for easy application. The scent is very gentle, and the toner absorbs nicely. It is highly moisturising and soothing thanks to the rose flower extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice and galactomyces ferment filtrate. Rose extract soothes and calms irritated skin and is ideal for all skin types. Aloe extract helps bind moisture to the skin and hydrates and soothes the skin. Galactomyces ferment filtrate is a by-product of fermented sake. It contains all the beneficial compounds created during the fermentation process. The filtrate strengthens the skin’s moisture barrier and helps your skin absorb nutrients. There are no chemical preservatives, and the product is safe for young people and pregnant women. The toner contains niacinamide and adenosine to keep the skin youthful and pigmentation-free.
Moisture Giving Whitening cream
The texture of the Brisnow serum is light and watery. The scent is pleasant with a citrus finish (orange and neroli). The serum is in a glass bottle with a pipette lid for an easy, mess-free and hygienic application. The main ingredient is the liquorice root extract. It has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. The serum also contains galactomyces ferment filtrate, which helps strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier. Silk extract protects the skin and retains its natural moisture. This whitening serum contains adenosine, niacinamide, aloe leaf juice, jojoba seed oil and many other natural ingredients that will keep your skin hydrated, moisturised and nourished. It also helps to minimise fine lines and gives the skin an overall glowy appearance. It can be used both in the morning and in the evening.
Face Brightening Whitening serum
The cream has a nice bouncy texture and a medium scent of neroli, orange and lavender. It is absorbed smoothly, which makes it perfect for a morning skincare routine. The main ingredients include galactomyces ferment filtrate for soothing the skin, niacinamide for brightening and adenosine and noni extract for wrinkle improvement. Noni (Morinda citrifolia) is an evergreen tree with large leaves and yellow fruit. It grows in the Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia, Australia, and India. Noni juice contains potassium, vitamin C, and vitamin A. That makes it a perfect hydrating, rejuvenating and soothing skincare ingredient. The cream is suitable for all skin types and it is safe for young people and pregnant women.
I wish to introduce two House of Dohwa products: the Rice Bran Facial Moisturizer and the Peach Blossom Overnight Mask. When I unpacked the products, they didn´t catch my attention at first. I left them unpacked for a few days until I came across a work of art on my Instagram page. It stirred something in my memory: a simple black and white sketch of a rice stalk. I returned to the simple white boxes and decided to give them a go. It was love at first sight. I mean, you can argue they are only cosmetic products but let me disagree with a quick detour. After two years of pandemics, I am tired. I am craving simple pleasures, like sipping coffee in my favourite coffee spot or watching a new Poirot movie in a cinema. Simple. Sweet. Precious. And somehow these two beautiful glass semi-transparent containers gave me a moment of simple pleasure, a sight for sore eyes. That fleeting feeling of joy. Something I needed at that precise moment. So that evening I decided to give them a go. I spared myself a little time after my baby had gone to sleep. After cleansing, I used House of Dohwa’s Rice Bran Toner, proceeded with my serum and applied the Rice Bran Facial Moisturizer. The moisturiser is a light white cream, with almost no scent. It has a velvety texture, and the skin quickly absorbs it. After applying the moisturiser the skin feels hydrated, smooth and nourished. I have combination skin with drier patches, especially in winter. After using this moisturiser my skin condition improved. My skin is now hydrated, moisturised, smooth and soft to touch. I really cannot recommend this product enough. It is also hypoallergenic, so it suits sensitive skin too. The moisturiser contains nine kinds of native rice bran extract, which contains high-quality protein, and nutrients that provide rich moisturisation. For extra nutrition and hydration, I recommend the Peach Blossom Overnight Mask. It has a soft texture and beautiful light pink colour. It contains nine kinds of native rice bran extract, plus peach blossom extract, which contains Vitamin C that helps to protect your skin from factors that cause the release of damaging free radicals, which lead to premature signs of ageing. So it is always a good idea to implement Vitamin C in your skincare routine. The mask is absorbed nicely by the skin without leaving it sticky. In the morning, you simply wash off the mask during your morning routine. My skin after using this mask is amazing. It is glowing, vitalised and soft. Again, this product is suitable for sensitive skin too. This House of Dohwa combo has improved my skin condition in a way I cannot fully describe. It is soft, healthy-looking, hydrated, smooth and glowy. I will confidently be trying the rest of their products soon.
an honest review
"At Dohwagain, we’ve combined the wisdom of our ancestors with the natural ingredients taken from our land. The result stems from extensive research into the cultivation, extraction, and effects of our ingredients; thus creating new standards for the Korean skincare experience." (Dohwagain brand story) House of Dohwa is a Korean skincare brand that combines the latest research with the treasures of Korean nature. Their main ingredient is the “forgotten secret of Korean skincare”: traditional wild rice. Before 1910, over 1,500 varieties of traditional rice strains were grown and farmed in the Korean peninsula. Through extensive research and testing, Dohwagain has blended nine of the best types of wild rice for their products.
HOUSE OF DOHWA
YOUR HAIR IS YOUR CROWN:
ECOMINE Co., Ltd. is a professional haircare company recognised for its excellent production of eco-friendly; preventative hair-loss products and hair-growth promoting patented compositions. Through extensive research and clinical trials, ECOMINE has dedicated its efforts to solving fundamental hair and scalp problems by creating the highest quality hair and scalp care system. With the help of professional trichologists, ECOMINE Co., Ltd. continues researching, innovating and developing functional and non-medical products. ECOMINE produces several brands such as HA'SOL, Angel Around, Hesol and Tint to Eco. HA'SOL products include various shampoos and hair tonics for every hair problem, from hair loss to dry and damaged hair, to oily or itchy scalps. Angel Around professional products include the Show King Butter, a rich and intensive deep-conditioning treatment, and the Show King Pod, the hair detangling and hydrating treatment. The Hesol Rim non-medical line focuses on preventing hair loss and improving hair growth. Tint to Eco product line includes odourless hypoallergenic hair dyes recommended for all hair types.
ECOMINE, professional haircare
HA'SOL Anti-hair Loss Day Tonic
HA'SOL Anti-hair Loss Shampoo
REVIEW
This clinically tested hair loss shampoo comes in a 500 g bottle with a practical pump. The shampoo has a velvety texture and a soft scent. It gently cleanses the scalp, soothes irritated skin and improves overall hair health. The shampoo contains Korean wild ginseng extract, salvia extract and nettle extract, all of which gently purify the hair and scalp. It also comprises a patented extract of Laminaria japonica with antifungal properties. For the best results, massage your scalp with shampoo for two to three minutes before rinsing it off with lukewarm water. My aunt, who turns 50 this year, had been suffering from continual hair loss, and her scalp was often itchy and red. She started using this shampoo a while ago, and she is satisfied. She loves the velvety texture and soft foam. Her scalp is no longer red and itchy. She also said she could see new hair growing.
HA'SOL Anti-Hair Loss Day Tonic is a daily scalp treatment that penetrates the scalp with essential nutrients. It stimulates a healthy scalp and the growth of healthy, beautiful hair. The day tonic contains a blend of oriental and western herbs that protects the scalp and hair. The main ingredients are salicylic acid, niacinamide, Panax ginseng root extract, sage leaf extract and ginger root extract that nourish and protect the scalp. It is easy to use: after shampooing and towel-drying your hair, spray a bit of the tonic on your roots and gently massage. Do not rinse. The product has a watery texture and a gentle scent. It comes in a spray bottle and can be used daily. I could see the difference after a few weeks of use. My hair was healthier, and the amount of hair I was losing was rapidly decreasing.
Climbazole antifungal improved cleansing
Centella Asiatica Root Extract sebum control/ scalp relief
Root Remedy Oily Scalp Shampoo
This cooling shampoo prevents itchiness and reduces dandruff. Its main ingredient, Climbazole, is a topical antifungal agent commonly used in the treatment of human fungal skin infections such as dandruff and eczema. The shampoo contains antioxidants and antibacterial ingredients such as Centella asiatica root extract and menthol. The shampoo is also certified by the Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety as a hair loss preventative. The ingredients strengthen hair roots and promote hair growth. The shampoo is sold in a 330 ml plastic bottle with a practical lid; it is colourless and viscous. The scent is very pleasant as it smells of mint. To fully maximise the shampoo´s effect, apply it to wet hair and leave it in for a few minutes before rinsing it off. You can double-wash your hair to keep it fresh and healthy. You can also lightly massage your scalp with your fingertips to help it absorb the active ingredients. As a person with extremely oily hair, I have used many shampoos claiming to rid me of my problem. They never worked. So when I was asked to give the Root Remedy Shampoo a go, I was a bit sceptical. However, I’m not sure what magic Curlyshyll uses but it works! I am beyond happy with the results. My hair stays fresh for considerably longer than it used to, and my scalp is soft and hydrated, with no itching or redness. I like the texture and the minty scent. If you are looking for a shampoo that will actually make a difference, grab the Root Remedy Oily Scalp Shampoo now!
CURLYSHYLL PRODUCT REVIEW
Menthol soothing inflammation relief
CURLYSHYLL
Curlyshyll is an independent professional haircare brand offering the best hair products, education and support for premium salons. Curlyshyll continuously communicates and cooperates with hairstylists and their customers to develop the best products. They also work with perfumers to create premium scents for hypoallergenic hair products. The brand is immensely popular amongst celebrities and beauty and fashion influencers. Within six months after its launch, Curlyshyll products were being sold in various high-quality department stores and premium hair salons. The company has ten brand ambassadors who are top hairstylists working with global artists, musicians, and celebrities. They are involved in Curlyshyll's product development process and are a real asset with their experience and expertise. In May 2019, Curlyshyll launched their Prestige Clinic and Head Spa Lines and soon started to sell their products in Shinsegae, a long-standing South Korean department store franchise. In just a few months, Curlyshyll was stocked in over 1500 premium hair salons. The year 2020 was successful for the brand: their products were launched in Lotte DutyFree, Sephora and two postpartum care clinics: St.Park and Trinity. They also started working with seven ambassadors and developed the Flower and Herb Line, as well as Lotus Hydro Perm. Curlyshyll products are sold at Olive Young and in over 3000 premium hair salons, including hotels.
Babassu Oil
Silky Oil Serum has a pleasant floral peach scent, lightweight texture and a non-greasy finish. The scent was developed by professional perfumers from France and Spain. The serum improves split ends and adds shine to dull hair. You can easily mix the serum with hair primer or wax. It is sold in 70 ml or 100 ml bottles, each with a pump, and is suitable for dry, dull or damaged hair. You can also use it as nourishment after perming and dyeing. You can apply the Silky Oil Serum to wet or dry hair. To make your hair shiny and moist, apply to towel-dried hair. To prevent nutrition and hydration loss, apply it to dry hair. For extra care, apply on wet hair and then once again on dry hair, focusing on split ends. Be sure to pat your skin with the remaining oil for an extra floral scent that you can enjoy all day. The oil serum has a beautiful flowery scent and silky texture. My ends were dry and split, so I started applying the serum on a daily basis. After a few weeks my hair now looks healthier, and the ends look a lot better. I love the way my hair smells fresh the whole time and how glossy and healthy it looks. Applying the serum to my hair has become my favourite nightly ritual. I use it once a week on my wet hair, and I really see the difference. The Silky Oil Serum is my favourite hair serum.
Prestige Hair Care Babassu Oil, with its white honey musk scent and silky texture, is a treat not only to your hair but also to your senses. The 100 ml hard plastic square bottle has a lid with a pump for quick and easy application. The babassu seed oil creates a natural moisturising layer that protects your hair. Packed with antioxidants and healthy fats, babassu seeds are high in nutrients. The oil is lightweight with a non-sticky finish. It makes your hair nourished, hydrated, soft and wonderfully scented. The oil can be applied to dry or towel-dry hair after shampooing. For extra care for your ends, apply twice. The oil is suitable for thin hair too, as it has a light texture that does not make your hair greasy or heavy. When I first opened the Babassu Oil from Curlyshyll, it was love at first smell. The oil smells amazing, and the texture is great for my oily hair with dry ends. It makes my hair shiny, nourished and scented during the day. For extra care, I apply the oil on my dry ends every night as a part of my night routine. My hair was never better and healthier looking.
Silky Oil Serum
ESTHETIC HOUSE CO., LTD., established in 2005, is a professional cosmetics developer group. They dedicate their vision to innovation, improvement and development. They are constantly looking for new paths and breaking old frames. Their experienced specialists control every part of the company’s production network from project development until a product reaches the shop shelves. Esthetic House Co., Ltd. employs professionals with more than 20 years of experience in manufacturing and R&D to develop products in cooperation with top hair and make-up designers. In 2018, the company opened their third factory. Esthetic House started selling its cosmetics via Home Shopping on the Korean National TV channels (2006), GS Home Shopping (2007) and Lotte and Hyundai Home Shopping (2012). In 2014, they launched a professional hair brand called CP-1, which quickly became the best-selling brand. They also started exporting their products to Japan (2014), Taiwan and New Zealand (2015), and Hong Kong (2016). In 2019 the company signed an exclusive contract with American Amazon. Last year they launched a make-up brand, A.blending, dental care brand, Dear.dent, and a professional sports cosmetics line.
ESTHETIC HOUSE
CP-1
CP-1 Bright Complex Shampoo and Conditioner
"My hair was always very dry and damaged after multiple bleaching so I decided to give Bright Complex Shampoo and Conditioner a go. I could see results after only a few applications. I added a few more products like the Keratin Ampoule and the Hair Treatment to my haircare routine and my hair is now strong, healthy and hydrated like never before. I am really satisfied with the CP-1 products." Andrea, 46
https://www.instagram.com/cp1_official/
If your hair is dry, damaged and brittle, you need to strengthen and hydrate it with the Bright Complex duo. Both products are slightly acidic, so they maintain the pH balance of healthy hair. They contain five types of protein, specifically low-molecular proteins that penetrate the hair structure, leaving the hair nourished and protected. Both contain amino acids, vegetable oils and ceramides for extra nourishment of dry hair. The jojoba seed oil helps to soothe an itchy and dry scalp. It is rich in vitamins and minerals that nourish your hair. Camellia seed oil and coconut oil hydrate and moisturise your hair, leaving it silky, smooth and glossy. This shampoo provides care not only to your hair but also to your scalp. It controls sebum and oil and cleanses your scalp from accumulated dandruff and product buildup. The conditioner keeps your hair smooth, silky and hydrated from within. It is suitable for all hair types. Usage is simple: shampoo your hair and then apply a layer from mid-hair to end. Wait a few minutes and rinse with water. You can then apply CP-1 silk ampoule or the CP-1 Keratin Concentrate Ampoule for even better results.
The Keratin Concentrate Ampoule comes in two sizes: a 10 ml and an 80 ml bottle. It is a water-type ampoule for damaged hair that nourishes and restores hair with keratin. You can apply the ampoule as a non-washed treatment, a sleeping pack, or add it to a hair dye. This ampoule combines low-molecular protein (hydrolysed keratin) and high-molecular protein (hydrolysed collagen). It means the formula is absorbed into both the inner and outer layers of damaged hair. The result is stronger and nourished hair. Baobab tree leaf extract replicates the actual plant’s ability to store water. Elastin provides elasticity and deeper moisture. Keratin amino acid penetrates deeply into the damaged hair to prevent further damage, and hydrolysed keratin provides concentrated nourishment.
CP-1 Keratin Concentrate Ampoule
Cream Mixer Cica Moisturizer
Many people connect Korean cosmetics with the famous 10-step cosmetic routine. Some of us jumped on the trend pretty quickly. Some are still trying to wrap their head around whether to use a toner first or an essence—or maybe an essence toner? Trending The world of Korean cosmetics is deep and may seem complicated for beginners. There is no denying that Korean cosmetics are getting worldwide recognition for their innovation and quality. With a bit of reading and training, you can put together a decent routine that fits your skin needs. However, if you want to keep your skincare products to a minimum and still get great results, Korean cosmetics has an answer for you too. The minimalistic trend goes hand in hand with another one: customisation of your skincare. Every skin is unique. Each customer wants individual results and has individual expectations. And some of us want to have fun with our skincare. The Potions Korean brand, The Potions, has answered our prayers and launched a set of products that you can mix and match. They call their skincare “skipcare” because you skip the unnecessary steps, and instead focus on what your skin truly needs with only a few powerful products. You can mix, blend or layer their products easily. On their website www.thepotions.co.kr there is a tab called “how to use,” here you can find their recipes for every skin concern. Mix and match For example, if your skin is dry, they advise using these three types of activation ampoules that you mix or layer: hyaluronic acid, camellia seed and mugwort. Or you can mix a few drops of the ampoule with the cica complex cream mixer or aqua gel cream mixer for an enhanced effect. It is entirely up to you and up to your current skin condition. It makes the skincare routine more fun and more suited to your skin. You can also benefit from this skipcare if you are short on time or if you want to minimise your morning skincare. My skin was rather dull, so I wanted to get a bit of that gorgeous glow you see on Korean skincare models. Long shot, but why not? Based on the recipe on their website, I chose three activation ampoules: vitamin B12, calamine and peptide. I also went for the Cica mixer moisturiser. My results I have been using this combo for about three weeks. I keep my skincare routine very simple. After cleansing, I use a calming toner, and then I apply a layer of vitamin B and calamine ampoule. Next, I mix a few drops of the peptide ampoule with the Cream Mixer, and that is it. I do this morning and evening, and I occasionally add a few products into the mix, such as hyaluronic acid or tea tree in the case of a minor break out. I am satisfied with the simplicity and efficiency. My skin oil production is much better, and I am no longer experiencing an oily forehead as I used to. My skin is hydrated and more even-looking. I have clearer skin with almost no breakouts, and my skin looks fresh and plump. Do I now have glowy skin like the models in cosmetic adverts? No. My skin is different, often problematic, with enlarged pores, which I try to minimise. It can break out easily, and it can dry out easily too. But it belongs to me, and I want to keep it as healthy and fresh-looking as possible. And that I accomplished with the help of The Potions products. My skin is happy; so am I.
This Centella asiatica-based cream moisturiser combines a thoughtfully selected assortment of ingredients including kelp, ginseng, squalane, and niacinamide to intensely hydrate, strengthen, balance, and improve the skin's defences. This cream comes in a white minimalistic-looking tube; it has a light texture and white colour. It has no scent and is absorbed nicely by the skin, leaving a soft protective layer without feeling sticky. You can use the cream on its own at the end of your skincare routine, or you can mix it with a few drops of the activation ampoule for even better results.
EDITOR´S PICK:
Your skin will only ever be as good as your skincare routine.
Made with a mixture of zinc oxide and red iron oxide, calamine powder protects the skin from sun overexposure and external stressors and is an instant solution to skin nourishment. This ampoule has a pink colour and a slightly thicker consistency than the vitamin B12 ampoule. It has almost no scent, and it is absorbed nicely by the skin. This ampoule is suitable for acne-prone skin, sensitive skin and people who need to keep their skin oil production at bay.
Calamine ampoule
Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. More specifically, collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides to your skincare routine can stimulate your skin to produce collagen. That can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin. This ampoule has a transparent colour and light texture. It is absorbed nicely by the skin without leaving it sticky.
Vitamin B12 ampoule
THE POTIONS
This ampoule has a gorgeous light pink colour and viscous gel texture with almost no scent. The glass bottle contains 20 ml of the serum packed with vitamin B12, which is an antioxidant necessary for cell reproduction. It reduces inflammation and dryness. As the ampoule is formulated with hyaluronic acid it keeps the skin moisturised and fresh.
Peptide ampoule
Skincancer.org explains: “UV radiation is part of the natural energy produced by the sun.” On the electromagnetic spectrum, UV light has shorter wavelengths than visible light, so your eyes can’t see UV, but your skin can feel it. Tanning beds also emit UV radiation. Two types of UV light are proven to contribute to the risk of skin cancer: Ultraviolet A (UVA) has a longer wavelength and is associated with skin ageing. UVA radiation is proven to contribute to the development of skin cancer. Ultraviolet B (UVB) has a shorter wavelength and is associated with skin burning. UVB penetrates and damages the outermost layers of your skin. Overexposure causes suntan, sunburn and, in severe cases, blistering. Unprotected exposure to UVA and UVB damages the DNA in skin cells, producing genetic defects, or mutations, that can lead to skin cancer (as well as premature ageing.) These rays can also cause eye damage, including cataracts and eyelid cancers. The majority of nonmelanoma skin cancers (NMSC) and a large percentage of melanomas are associated with exposure to UV radiation from the sun. This may sound pretty scary, but be assured; we still have a great way to enjoy outdoor activities! We can protect our skin against UV exposure with broad-spectrum sunscreens and sun-safe clothing, hats and eyewear. However, if a product with a specific SPF effectively blocks UVB rays, this does not guarantee UVA protection. For this reason, it is essential to look for a broad-spectrum or full-spectrum lotion. Broad-spectrum sunscreens block UVA rays in the same proportions that SPF (sun protection factor) blocks UVB. SPF measures how well a sunscreen will protect skin from UVB rays— the kind of radiation that causes sunburn, damages skin, and can contribute to skin cancer. Sun protection products are a crucial part of the Korean 10-step routine. It is slowly but surely making its way into the European consciousness and daily skincare routine. Korean sun protection products have been creating a buzz for some time, and many brands are trying to copy their innovative texture and formula stability.
SUN PROTECTION- THE CRUCIAL STEP IN SKIN CARE
Korean brands use a unique system. Normally you will not find the letters UVA and UVB on their products. Instead, look for SPF for UVB protection and PA+++ for UVA protection. PA is short for protection grade of UVA.
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HEIMISH ARTLESS GLOW BASE SPF50+/PA+++
FAU BB cream has excellent coverage and keeps the skin hydrated and flawless. The beauty balm protects your skin against exposure to UVA and UVB with SPF37 and PA ++. You can easily apply it with the included sponge. You can remove the sponge and clean it as often as needed. It is similar to a beauty blender, and it makes applying make-up so much easier. It is also mess-free and hygienic. The BB cream has a light texture; however, it covers any imperfections and blemishes with ease. It keeps the skin moist, hydrated and fresh-looking. It contains soothing ingredients like Centella asiatica, allantoin and moisturizing mango seed butter. It’s also infused with an advanced anti-ageing serum to diminish the appearance of wrinkles and pores, creating a more radiant, supple, and flawless-looking complexion. The BB cream is suitable for sensitive skin as well. You can choose from three shades: original, mocha and hazelnut.
FAU SKIN SOLUTION BB SPF37/ PA++
I remember the days—and it was not such a long time ago— when putting a sun protection cream on your face was a nightmare. The usual creams made the skin shiny and sticky, and let's not forget the famous white cast effect; it was a problem for most people, not to mention people with darker skin tones. It was a real struggle, and it took a long time for people to realise that protecting their skin should be a crucial part of their healthcare. Fortunately, the lightweight and soft Korean sun protection products popularised the use of sun creams. Daily sun cream application is making a positive change in skin health. I use sun protection cream with an SPF50/PA+++ every day, and I also try to reapply it during the day. I always keep my sunscreen in my handbag; I cannot leave the house without it. I often use other products containing sun UVA and UVB protective factors, such as glow bases, daily creams, foundations and even mists. Every person can find their product of choice in this wide range.
Artless Glow Base is a multifunctional product that not only protects your skin from harmful UVA and UVB but also brightens your skin and evens your skin tone all at once. The base can be used alone for sun protection and a glowy look, or as a primer before make-up application for a longer-lasting effect. The texture is very light, almost like a serum, and it absorbs nicely into the skin, leaving it glowy and smooth. It has a subtle pleasant scent. The base is suitable for all skin types. I personally use the base as a primer during the wintertime as it makes my make-up last longer and my skin looks smoother. I use the glow base on its own during summer because it protects my skin from sun damage and it makes my skin look glowy and bright. I also love the light texture and pleasant scent.
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MARKET RESEARCH
BEAUTY TRENDS 2022: UPCYCLED?
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1. PHYGITAL BEAUTY In this century, technology proceeds faster than anything. We expect a mobile app for almost everything, including beauty. There is a strong demand for smart beauty devices. Brands are introducing so-called “phygital beauty” which is a merging of the physical with the digital. Some devices integrate machine learning and sensors to monitor skin hydration levels, the overall condition of the skin, sun damage, skin pH levels etc. Phygital beauty includes various programmes and applications that use AI to create certain looks, for example, L´Oreal uses an augmented reality try-on tool that allows their customers to try new hair colours or latest makeup launches. Amorepacific, a major Korean cosmetics company, recently launched an application system for the personalisation of beauty products. Korean startup Lululab has won the CES Innovation Award for four consecutive years (2019 to 2022). Their LUMINI app is a portable AI Skincare Assistant that provides a data-based approach to skincare. In 2021 they launched a smart mirror LUMINI PM. 2. PERSONALISED BEAUTY CARE Personalised beauty care can be closely related to technological devices. An excellent example is Shiseido´s Optune, which integrates a mobile application that leverages AI to detect a user´s skin condition and then dispenses a personalised formula each day. A Singapore brand, Skin Inc, that sells its products across Asia, Europe and America, provides its customers with a wide range of customisable skincare products, because every skin is unique. The brand PROVEN uses award-winning data and machine learning technology to customise beauty and wellness products for individuals. Korean beauty brands are catching up to this customised skincare trend too (TOUN28, MIXSOON, VICSLAB). 3. TRANSPARENCY Transparency in the cosmetic industry is becoming a must. Customers are becoming more interested in how their cosmetics are made, the ingredients used and their origin, and the environmental safety of the manufacturing process. They want to know how beneficial the ingredients in a product are and whether the price is worth it. When the U.S. brand Deciem introduced their skincare line The Ordinary, it was a boom. Products that showed actual effects with very reasonable pricing became all-time favourites. Customers are interested in evidence-based skin analysis: do products deliver on their promises? That is the question every skincare enthusiast will ask and brands need to have the evidence ready. 4. CLEAN BEAUTY The main focus here is what clean beauty means. There certainly is a demand for natural plant-based ingredients, eco-friendly production, a closer partnership between brands and farms, vegan beauty and cruelty-free products. The list goes on. In the middle of environmental crises, people are starting to make more considerate choices. Retailers like Sephora or Amazon are selling specialised clean beauty brands such as Japanese Tatacha, American brand Drunk Elephant, or New Zealand´s Ethique, and people are crazy for their products. Brands try to come up with more environmentally friendly packaging, biodegradable and compostable sheet masks (Korean brand Farm Skin Inc.), recyclable or refillable plastic containers or even glass bottles. 5. SKINIMALISM An interesting movement towards minimalism in skincare is called “skinimalism”. It is the antithesis of the Korean 10 steps routine; skinimalism concentrates on using less, using all-in-one concentrates. Why use three different products when you can have one potent enough to cover all your skin needs? Companies are focusing on developing these multitasking skincare products. Skinimalism is closely knotted with environmental issues, but it is also emerging as an opposition to consumerism. Korean brand Venn has products with real life in mind, prioritising efficiency and convenience. According to the brand´s website, their Vitamin B activated All-in-one concentrate is supposed to replace your toner, essence, serum, ampoule, moisturiser, cream and oil. Now that is something for a busy morning, right? Korean brand Banila Co focuses on a simplified routine, selling hybrid products to cut back on the number of steps in your routine.
On the brink of an environmental crisis, the beauty industry stands at the forefront of the sustainability movement. Many brands realise that customers’ purchasing decisions are driven by environmental sustainability among others, and are working tirelessly towards a more environmentally friendly manufacturing process, including ingredient sourcing, energy consumption and waste management. 1. Packaging element When we speak about packaging people usually consider only the actual containers in which the beauty products are. Have you ever thought about the shipping process? Some products are shipped in tons of Styrofoam and cardboard boxes. Have you thought about the number of wooden pallets used, and the carbon emissions involved in the whole transportation process? Probably not. Fortunately, many brands are trying to improve this aspect, reusing the wooden pallets and cardboard boxes and avoiding the use of Styrofoam. The future might be in the use of hemp paper, which is more eco-friendly. As for the actual beauty product containers, it is better to avoid single-use plastics and opt for glass containers. The best principle is to follow the triple R: reduce, reuse and recycle. Customers should also commit 100% to recycling their beauty product waste. Some brands have started using bioplastics which are made from vegetable sources; they are biodegradable because they dissolve in three to six months. 2. Cruelty-free and vegan beauty products Many brands have opted to go cruelty-free or were cruelty-free right from the beginning, which means that they do not test their ingredients or finished products on animals. This issue is still sensitive, and even though big beauty conglomerates such as L’oreal or Estée Lauder are making positive changes there is still a long way to go. In the European Union, testing on animals for cosmetics was prohibited in 2013. If you are interested in checking whether your favourite brand is cruelty-free, simply check the PETA website. It provides a list of brands that are testing on animals and cruelty-free brands. The list also includes brands that are working on becoming cruelty-free. Another issue is the use of animal by-products such as retinol, lanolin, collagen, amino acids, animal oils, beeswax, hydrolysed animal protein, squalene and more. Many people opt for vegan cosmetic products to make more animal-friendly choices. 3. Use of raw materials In recent years, natural cosmetic brands have become popular. However, the use of natural ingredients on a large scale can lead to the disruption of ecosystems and the depletion of non-renewable natural resources. It is important to find a balance. Some people have more adverse reactions than others when using natural ingredients that can irritate their skin, such as citrus extracts, essential oils, nut oils or menthol. Natural does not always mean the best. In 2018 the world was left speechless when the mica scandal was revealed. Mica is a mineral used in many beauty products such as eye shadows, highlighters or foundation; 60% of the global mica production comes from India where even though child labour is prohibited many mines use it. Even though the issue is being solved by closer investigation of the labour condition, one might opt for mica-free products just in case. Fortunately, many brands are working with local farms and research centres to find more sustainable options and bring their customers products that do not harm the environment. 4. Use of harmful chemical components The word “chemical” generates a lot of mixed feelings and often has a negative connotation. Even though not all chemical components are harmful to our health, one should always check the list for irritating ingredients. The problem with some chemical components is that they do not break down, and instead accumulate in our ecosystem. They infiltrate the waters, and as the water vaporises, it gets in the atmosphere when it comes back in the form of acid rain. This never-ending cycle can dangerously impact our ecosystem. People should avoid beauty products laden with unnecessary chemical additives and preservatives but should not consider all chemical compounds harmful.
Ideas for the Beauty Industry’s Contribution
The industry is tackling this problem by innovating products and educating consumers. Innovative products are being developed that require less water during use. For example, some companies have developed concentrated shampoo formulas that only require a single lather, while others have developed ‘two-in-one’ products that remove the need to use a separate conditioner. There are also initiatives led by cosmetics companies that aim to educate consumers about water conservation. Many companies’ websites provide suggestions and tips for consumers on ways to reduce household water use, e.g. installing water-efficient showerheads, turning off the tap while brushing your teeth, taking shorter showers, etc. The focus is not only on adults who buy cosmetic products but also on children. For example, lessons are given in schools to educate children on how to save water, ensuring these principles are carried forward into adulthood. Direct communication at the point-of-sale is another initiative aiming to educate consumers about their environmental footprint. SAVING WATER Social media provide opportunities for cosmetic companies to communicate directly with their customers. As an illustration of how social media can be utilised, one large cosmetics company has developed an online video to educate consumers on how to reduce their water use. The video provides practical suggestions, such as turning off the tap while cleaning your teeth and hands and reducing the amount of time spent in the shower.
Consumer use phase Cosmetic products are directly used by consumers or applied by professionals (e.g. hairdressers and beauticians). There is mounting evidence— confirmed by Cosmetics Europe’s study into the environmental footprint category rules for shampoo— that a large proportion of the environmental footprint of rinse-off or wash-off cosmetic products (shower and bath products, shampoos and conditioners, etc.) occurs during this ‘use’ phase. For these products, the amount of water and the energy necessary for heating it can have a significant environmental impact. It has been estimated, for example, that around 90% of the total CO2 emissions across the product lifecycle of shampoo stem from the heating and use of tap water.
Cosmetics companies are increasing the use of recycled paper and cardboard for packaging, rather than using virgin materials. Several companies have introduced consumer incentives (e.g. free products or vouchers) for returning packaging that can be refilled and/or reused. Refillable/reusable packaging saves on raw materials, which is environmentally advantageous, but the associated cost savings can also be transferred to the consumer. Several companies have introduced refillable packaging in the fields of hair care, lotions/moisturisers, and soaps. Another way that cosmetics companies have helped to combat the issue of consumer waste is to use compostable packaging (e.g. replacing petrochemical packaging with plant fibres). Cardboard has historically been used as a packaging system but some companies are also using other materials, such as bamboo, straw, or certain bioplastics. BIODEGRADABLE PACKAGING For example, one company has developed a line of compostable makeup, based on packaging made from cardboard and bioplastics. Cardboard is used for the base and cover, while plant-derived plastic forms the internal mechanism, resulting in 100% plant-derived and biodegradable packaging. Biodegradable packaging is only one environmental practice of many that companies can incorporate into their business. Protecting our natural resources, our planet and nature needs to be addressed in all aspects of the manufacturing process. The options are available, but the choice to make a difference is ours.
to Environmental Sustainability
Post-consumer phase Cosmetic products, having been rinsed or washed off, go to wastewater treatment plants. Packaging waste is subject to various waste management techniques which depend on infrastructure and consumer habits, investments made in modern collection, separation and processing systems, choice of packaging type and material(s), etc. It is widely recognised within the cosmetics industry that the use of recycled and/or recyclable packaging can help to reduce the amount of consumer waste sent to landfills.
Cosmetics companies are increasing the use of recycled paper and cardboard for packaging, rather than using virgin materials. Several companies have introduced consumer incentives (e.g. free products or vouchers) for returning packaging that can be refilled and/or reused. Refillable/reusable packaging saves on raw materials, which is environmentally advantageous, but the associated cost savings can also be transferred to the consumer. Several companies have introduced refillable packaging in the fields of hair care, lotions/moisturisers, and soaps. Another way that cosmetics companies have helped to combat the issue of consumer waste is to use compostable packaging (e.g. replacing petrochemical packaging with plant fibres). Cardboard has historically been used as a packaging system but some companies are also using other materials, such as bamboo, straw, or certain bioplastics.
The influence of the packaging DESIGN
Aesthetics and functionality To appeal to your target audience your package design must combine aesthetics and functionality. The product package has to look appealing to the varying tastes of your customers, but it also needs to serve them practically. It is crucial to conduct thorough research among your target audience before you even start designing the perfect package for your product. If your target customers are teens, you can do well by choosing vivid and bold colours and fonts. However, if you want to sell natural cosmetics, you will do better with earthy colours and minimalistic designs. If you wish to sell your product to high-end customers, your packaging must scream luxury from first sight. Here you can choose a black and gold combination to address the luxury your customers can expect inside the well-designed package. To make the packaging both captivating and practical, you need to pay equal attention to both. Brand image and identity Packaging design impacts the product inside, but it also represents the brand. The package should reflect your brand image and the audience you want to attract. Your product has to be easily recognised within any retail environment. Simply imagine your product among other similar products. Does the product stand out? Is it appealing and easily recognised? What makes it special? Does it reflect your brand identity and vision? If you figure out these questions and you are satisfied with the answers, then match the quality of the packaging with the quality of what waits inside and put that product on the shelf to see it sell out. Quality Quality packaging is a promise of quality inside. The content of the product can be amazing and effective, yet if you fail to deliver that message through the outer packaging then no one is going to know how great your product is. You need to pay attention to every single step and every single detail. Choose quality raw materials to make a durable, ideally sustainable, and recyclable packaging for your product. Remember that it is a simple equation. If the packaging is inferior to the content, customers will not purchase such an item because they will assume the product itself is mediocre. You will scare away impulse buyers in shops, or irritate customers who have bought your product online. They might eventually like your product, but they would still think your product is cheaper or inferior to other brands— just because of the poor packaging! On the other hand, if you have top-notch packaging, but the product itself is of low quality, customers will recognise this, and they will not buy the product again. In this case, you may get the sales from impulse buyers, but they will not return for seconds! And they will probably complain to their friends and family so you might end up with bad marketing too. There is a direct correlation between quality packaging and quality inside. It is simple as that. Limited edition If you step into a cosmetics retail shop you will find that most of the brands are now selling their limited edition items; they create a sense of urgency, which increases the number of impulse buyers. Customers like the idea that they have something that is owned by only a few people, and that it will be off the shelf soon. It creates an aura of luxury and pampering. Brands get an opportunity to create something unique and boost their sales. Limited editions can be a thank you to their loyal customers, and they can attract new potential buyers. Free marketing? Attractively designed packaging can be a tool for branding and marketing. If a product is attractive and attention-grabbing, people will take photos and post them on social media— not only influencers, but regular people who will do it for free, just because they like the design. They will spread positive reviews among their friends and family. And what is better than a positive review from someone you trust? I would want to try it for myself! Premium packaging is popular currently. Customers appreciate beautifully wrapped merchandise, and again they will want to share this experience with their friends. This trend is influenced by the vast number of unboxing videos uploaded daily on YouTube and other social media. It gives your customers a feeling that you, as a brand, made that extra step, extra effort to please them.
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Global inflation's impact on the cosmetic market
Terminology
Citations: (1) https://www.ecb.europa.eu/ecb/educational/hicp/html/index.en.html (2) https://www.consilium.europa.eu/en/policies/sanctions/restrictive-measures-against-russia-over-ukraine/ (3) https://www.investopedia.com/terms/r/recession.asp (4) https://www.investopedia.com/terms/e/economic-recovery.asp (5) https://www.un.org/development/desa/dpad/publication/world-economic-situation-and-prospects-june-2022-briefing-no-161/
The world was trying to recover after the COVID-19 pandemic when it received another blow. The aggression of the Russian Federation against Ukraine is causing loss of lives, damaged infrastructure and economic recession. As the world is more connected than ever, this conflict contributes to global inflation and humanitarian crises. There are more than one or two culprits behind this catastrophic state of the world. Global warming, depletion of resources, the COVID-19 pandemic, unstable international relations, Russian aggression in Ukraine and many more unaddressed problems have led the world to this state. After every recession, economic recovery follows. We can only hope to get through these difficult times without too many scratches. "There is an exceptionally heavy toll on the economy of the European Union: its GDP is projected to expand by 2.7 per cent in 2022, 1.2 percentage points lower than expected in January. The economic prospects for the Commonwealth of the Independent States and Georgia are also sharply downgraded. The Russian Federation’s economy is projected to contract by about 10 per cent in 2022. Amid massive destruction of infrastructure, population displacement and disruption of economic activities, the Ukrainian economy is projected to contract by 30 to 50 per cent in 2022." (5)
Inflation Inflation is the rate at which the value of a currency is falling and, consequently, the general level of prices for goods and services is rising. In the euro area, consumer price inflation is measured by the “Harmonised Index of Consumer Prices”, often referred to by its acronym of “HICP”. The term “harmonised” denotes the fact that all the countries in the European Union follow the same methodology. That ensures the data for one country can be compared with the data for another. (1) European Union sanctions The EU has adopted six sanctions packages in response to Russia's unprecedented military attack against Ukraine. The sanctions include targeted restrictive measures (individual sanctions), and economic and diplomatic measures. The EU has also adopted sanctions against Belarusin response to its involvement in the invasion of Ukraine. (2) Recession The NBER (National Bureau of Economic Research) defines a recession as a significant decline in economic activity spread across the economy, lasting more than a few months, normally visible in real GDP, real income, employment, industrial production, and wholesale-retail sales.(3) Economic recovery Economic recovery is the business cycle stage following a recession characterised by a sustained period of improving business activity. During an economic recovery, gross domestic product (GDP) grows, incomes rise, and unemployment falls as the economy rebounds. (4)
Impact on the beauty industry Inflation impacts the prices of products, consumers' purchasing power and the cost of living. People are noticing increased prices and are accommodating these changes by shifting their shopping patterns. Consumers are turning to lower-priced options, seeking discounts and promotions more often, and reducing their spending on categories like eating out, travelling, and other non-essential items. However, most people are reluctant to give up on products they find essential for their health, well-being and family, such as personal care products, beauty products, pet food or supplies for children. Retailers must adjust their short-term and long-term strategies in the current hypersensitive consumer environment. According to the Nielson IQ Omni shopper Panel (graph 1 and 2), the categories of beauty products affected the most are facial skin care, cosmetics and nails, and hair care. Least affected were hair removal products, sun care products ,and bath and shower products. (6)
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(6) NIELSENIQ TEAM, “Inflation unboxed: How inflation impacts beauty categories.” 3 Feb. 2022, https://nielseniq.com/global/en/insights/analysis/2022/inflation-unboxed-how -inflation-impacts-beauty-categories/
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OVERCOMING THE ECONOMIC DOWN TURN
The key approach is promptly adjusting your strategies to meet your customers' changing spending patterns. Satisfying your customers' various needs and still being able to remain above water is a balance you need to find in rapidly changing inflation dynamics. Brands should use transparent communication around rising prices. They should accommodate these changes with additional services like free shipping, no-risk returns or discounts. 1) Inclusive beauty Connect with your customers; find out what they need and want, and conduct thorough research to know your target customers and adjust to these findings. As consumers reduce spending, try offering them a balanced mix of products and price points so that everyone can find what they can afford in your shop. This phenomenon is called the lipstick effect. It occurs when consumers still spend money on small indulgences during recessions, economic downturns, or when they have little cash. They do not have enough to spend on big-ticket luxury items; however, many still find the cash for purchases of small luxury items, such as premium lipstick. For this reason, companies that benefit from the lipstick effect tend to be resilient even during economic downturns. (7) 2) Loyalty programs Loyalty programs are still a win-win for your company and the customer. Offer your loyal clients exclusive promotions, small gifts with their purchase or a pre-order of a new collection. Double down on good customer service to ensure customer satisfaction and encourage repeat purchases. Good customer service costs nothing, but it can make a huge difference, particularly in the post-pandemic atmosphere. 3) Strategic omnichannel approach The last two years have taught us that change can come suddenly and unannounced. Stores forced to close their gates overnight faced a conundrum of trying to find a way out of a situation they had never experienced before. Consumers were taken aback before turning quickly to e-commerce which skyrocketed within a few days. It is always a clever idea to maintain a strategic omnichannel approach. Keep your business available online and in stores, or find new ways of selling your products. (7) https://www.investopedia.com/terms/l/lipstick-effect.asp
4) Staying up to date with trends Whether you like it or not, Gen Z and applications like TikTok are setting trends every day. Stay up to date with trends and benefit from those that are in line with your brand philosophy and identity. After being cooped up inside their homes for months people are longing for experiences and services. They want to be pampered and taken care of. So think about how you can incorporate services and experiences into your business. Do you sell cosmetics? Do a promotional week where you hire a nail designer or a make-up artist to pamper your loyal customers. Add a few snacks, a welcome drink, and a few free samples, and you will be left with satisfied customers who will gladly return. 5) Strategic promotion Everyone loves a good promotion and a significant discount— everyone except the seller. Do not offer discounts on daily or weekly bases. That will create a sea of customers who rely on discounts in the long term, and you do not want that. Promote a new product or service by offering loyal customers an exclusive preview or making a special introductory offer. Strategically select your discount days or choose only one category that will go on sale each month. Do not offer enormous discounts that you cannot afford and that will not benefit you in the long run. 6) Personalisation Personalisation is a global consumer trend that has been around for several years now. Many cosmetic brands now offer AI-powered skincare analysis or virtual make-up try-on. But personalisation is also used in advertisements. Have you ever looked up a sunscreen, and suddenly all you could see were sunscreen ads from various brands? Personalisation has great potential, and it is up to you to employ it for your benefit.
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COSMETIC INGREDIENTS USAGE
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
The Regulation (EU) 2021/1902 covers the substances classified as CMR substances (including 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl)propionaldehyde) by Delegated Regulation (EU) 2020/1182 ( 3 ), which will apply from 1 March 2022. The substance is now officially prohibited in cosmetic products from 1st March 2022. 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl)propionaldehyde (BMHCA) CAS No. 80-54-6, also known as Lilial, is a fragrance ingredient used in many compounds in decorative cosmetics, fine fragrances, shampoos, toilet soaps, and other toiletries as well as in non-cosmetic products such as household cleaners and detergents. BMHCA is currently regulated for labelling purposes in Annex III, 83 of the Cosmetic Regulation No. 1223/2009 when present in a concentration above 10 ppm for leave-on products and above 100 ppm for rinse-off products. "However, according to an amendment to the CLP Regulation (Commission Delegated Regulation No. 2020/1182), Butylphenyl Methylpropional is now classified as toxic to reproduction (Repr. 1B – CMR 1B) and it shall be prohibited in cosmetic products from 1st March 2022." writes Liliana Teles, a regulatory affairs manager, for the Critical Catalyst. Teles further states: "Consequently, Butylphenyl Methylpropional shall be banned from cosmetic products from 1st March 2022 and the ingredient will be included in Annex II (list of substances prohibited in cosmetic products) of the European Cosmetics Regulation. All products containing Butylphenyl Methylpropional must be off the shelf by this date. Cosmetic products containing this ingredient can be reformulated, which means that new product safety evaluations must be performed and labels may need to be corrected."
References: 1. Regulation (EC) No 2021/1902 of 29 October 2021 amending Annexes II, III and V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use in cosmetic products of certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction 2. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. 3. Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No. 2020/1182 of 19 May 2020 amending, for the purposes of its adaptation to technical and scientific progress, Part 3 of Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council on classification, labelling, and packaging of substances and mixtures. 4. Teles, Liliana. (2020, September). Butylphenyl methylpropional to be prohibited in cosmetics placed in the EU market. Critical Catalyst. https://criticalcatalyst.com/butylphenyl-methylpropional-to-be-prohibited-in-cosmetics-placed-in-the-eu-market/ 5. Teles, Liliana. (2021, October). May Butylphenyl Methylpropional be used in cosmetic products? Critical Catalyst. https://criticalcatalyst.com/may-i-use-butylphenyl-methylpropional-in-cosmetic-products/
With the latest update to Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/135 on January 31, 2022, the use of methyl-N-methylanthranilate will be restricted in cosmetic products under Annex III of (EC) 1223/2009. The substance Methyl-N- methylanthranilate (M-N-MA) (CAS No 85-91-6) is a fragrance ingredient used in various cosmetics, including fine fragrances, shampoos, soaps and other toiletries. M-N-MA is currently not subject to any prohibition or restriction according to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Subsequently, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has concluded, in scientific advice of 16 October 2020 on the SCCS opinion on M-N-MA ( 4 ), that M-N-MA should not be used in sunscreen products and products marketed for exposure to natural or artificial UV light. For other cosmetic products, SCCS considered the use of M-N-MA safe in a concentration of up to 0,1 % for leave-on products and 0,2 % for rinse-off products. n light of the SCCS opinions and scientific advice, there is a potential risk to human health arising from the use of M-N-MA in sunscreen products and products marketed for exposure to natural or artificial UV light and in other cosmetic products where the concentration of the substance is more than 0,1 % for leave-on products and 0,2 % for rinse-off products. Therefore, such use of M-N-MA should be prohibited. In light of the SCCS opinions and scientific advice, there is also a potential risk to human health arising from the use of M-N-MA with nitrosating agents. Therefore, such use of M-N-MA should be prohibited, a maximum nitrosamine content of 50 μg/kg should be set and a requirement to keep cosmetic products containing M-N-MA in nitrite-free containers should be introduced. From 21 August 2022 cosmetic products containing Methyl-N- methylanthranilate and not complying with the restrictions shall not be placed on the Union market. From 21 November 2022 cosmetic products containing Methyl-N-methylanthranilate and not complying with the restrictions shall not be made available on the Union market.
The cosmetic ingredient Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) (CAS No 13463-41-7, EC No 236-671-3) with the chemical name Bis[(2-pyridyl-1-oxo)-thio]zinc was regulated as a preservative in rinse-off products (excluding oral hygiene products) in a concentration up to 0.5% in general and up to 1.0% in hair products (Annex V/8). Furthermore, ZPT was also allowed in a concentration up to 0.1% in leave-on hair products (Annex Ш/101). In 2018, the Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) categorized it as Reproductive Toxicity 1B after evaluation. The proposal, approved by the European Commission, started the process of ZPT to be banned under the EU cosmetics regulations. Although SCCS issued a safety conclusion on ZPT in March 2020 that shampoo containing less than 1% zinc pyrithione is safe for consumers, it cannot be proved that zinc pyrithione is an irreplaceable anti-dandruff ingredient. Zinc pyrithione could not meet the exemption conditions for CMR substances use in cosmetics and was eventually banned. Zinc Pyrithione, classified as a CMR substance of category 1B (Toxic for Reproduction), is banned in cosmetics from the 1st of March 2022. Zinc Pyrithione was deleted from the list of restricted substances in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and from the list of preservatives allowed in cosmetic products in Annex V to that Regulation. It was added to the list of substances prohibited in cosmetic products in Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
Zinc Pyrithione
References: https://ec.europa.eu/health/system/files/2021-11/sccs_o_236.pdf https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32021R1902&from=EN https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02009R1223-20220301
Methyl-N-methylanthranilate
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