In this edition.... Turf Insect Controls Turf Pigments Brushing and Turf Stress Plus:
KEYS TO SUCCESSFULLY ESTABLISHING CREEPING BENTGRASS
TURF NEWS THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE OHIO TURFGRASS FOUNDATION | SPRING/SUMMER 2017
President JASON STRAKA Fry Straka Global Golf Course Design
JASON MAHL Moraine Country Club
CHAD MARK Muirfeild Village Golf Club
NICK JANOVICH Oglebay Resort
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DR. JOHN STREET Ohio State University Director of Education
OHIO TURFGRASS FOUNDATION
ROB PALMER Weed Pro
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RYAN DEMAY Columbus Parks & Rec.
Vice President GINA ZIRKLE AmericanHort
Imm. Past President TIM GLORIOSO Toledo Country Club
Treasurer DARRIN BATISKY Bayer
CHAD KELLOGG Grasshopper Property Maint.
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MAXIMIZING TURF INSECT CONTROLS FOR 2017 PIGMENTS - WHAT, WHY, WHEN AND WHERE IS ALSO IMPORTANT KEYS TO SUCCESSFULLY ESTABLISHING CREEPING BENTGRASS IN NEWLY RENOVATED SAND-BASED ROOTZONES OTRT FOUNDERS CLUB CONTRIBUTORS DOES BRUSHING CONTRIBUTE TO TURF STRESS? OSU TURF TEAM DIRECTORY AND OTF TURF NEWS ADVERTISERS FROM THE DESK OF THE DIRECTOR
in this edition
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Bluegrass billbug larvae can kill extensive areas of Kentucky bluegrass turf. Preventive treatments need to be made in May over most of Ohio. If a long-residual insecticide is chosen, such early applications will also kill white grubs that arrive in July.
Many are exclaiming that this summer will be worse with bugs than a “normal” season because of the warm winter weather. My response is that mild winters are not a predictor of upcoming insect and mite populations. Sod webworms overwinter as larvae and wet soil conditions can lead to diseases and reduced survival. On the other hand, it is obvious that black cutworms and yellowstriped armyworms did well in the southern states and both have been arriving in larger than normal numbers on the storm fronts. But, a late cold snap or wetter than normal spring weather can certainly knock out the larvae of both of these turf-infesting caterpillars. Billbug damage is more related to June rainfall conditions. If we turn hot and dry in mid-June, billbug activity can cause turf death. On the other hand, if the turf is irrigated or we have normal to above normal rainfall during this same period, damage is rarely noticed and certainly doesn’t end up as dead turf in October. Our white grubs are up and already feeding, as being evidenced by early skink and raccoon digging. However, the factor that most influences white grub populations is July soil conditions. If the soil is generally dry, the grub populations will decrease. If the soil moisture is sufficient to keep the turf green, watch out! Jenny Andon, my former graduate student and research assistant found out the chinch bugs do best in Kentucky bluegrass that is actively growing. This is usually the case for their first generation that develops in June. However, if the KBG goes into dormancy in July and August, the chinch bug second generation crashes! In spite of the influences that weather has on our insect populations, short term and long term, turf managers still have to plan their management of these pests. Significant billbug damage to turf (meaning extensive death) only happens to Ohio’s lawns and sport fields about one in three years. The problem is determining if this will be that year! The same can be said for chinch bugs and white grubs. While an entomologist could extensively sample for these insects and make a quick determination as to whether a control is needed, most turf managers don’t have the skills or time to do this! So, how can a turf manager maximize the control tools (i.e., insecticides and their timing), yet minimize their costs of materials and time? The simplest answer is good record keeping! It has been long known that if you had a billbug, chinch bug, white grub or caterpillar problem in the past, you are at a higher risk of repeating this in the future. When I work with lawn care companies, I try to get them to put different colored pins in their workspace map. Each pin represents a different insect (but could also include weeds and diseases). Soon, you begin to realize that all neighborhoods are not the same with respect to insect pests. There are billbug neighborhoods, chinch bug neighborhoods, white grub neighborhoods and others with a combination of these. The same can be done by a golf course superintendent though many don’t actually map and keep records, other than in their minds! Having a notebook with a map of each hole (tee, fairway and green) can help keep records by marking where different pests have occurred. Soon, it will become apparent that only certain fairways, greens and tees experience pest activity and remembering where this has occurred can result in better targeting of controls. Dr. Harry Niemczyk came up with the concept of targeting multiple pests at the same time. His statement has been, “Insect pests of turf rarely occur one at a time in any location.” In short, most managed turf has two or more pests that are important during a season. If you can figure out a good time to apply an insecticide that kills two or more pests with one application, you have multi-targeting! In the past, we had insecticides like Chlordane that would leave behind effective residual activity for years! Then we move into other chemistry what remained active for a few days to a couple weeks. Most of these were organophosphate, carbamate and pyrethroid chemicals. When the neonics were developed, we again got weeks, even months of effective action from an application. Most recently, diamides, like Acelepryn, can remain active against billbugs, white grubs and caterpillars for three months, possibly longer! As an example, if you are a sport field manager with Kentucky bluegrass fields that regularly get billbug and white grub attacks, what can you use? If you use imidacloprid (Merit) or thiamethoxam (Meridian), the best time to apply these for billbugs is early to mid-May. However, both insecticides only have a 4-6 week effective residual in the soil-thatch zone. An early May application is likely to not control the grubs that arrive in mid- to late July. If I use clothianidin (Arena), which has a 6-8 week residual, I can put it down in May and expect excellent billbug and white grub control. Acelepryn can be applied in April and its long residual activity will get the billbugs in May and the white grubs at the end of July, plus cutworms and sod webworms during this time. In lawn care, this is where mapping becomes really important. If I have chinch bug plus white grub neighborhoods, I can apply imidacloprid or thiamethoxam in June and get both. But, if I have billbugs and white grubs, then I would need to use clothianidin. If we are only dealing with white grubs, I could use any of the neonics in June through July, or I could use a half rate of Acelepryn in late June through July. Golf courses are pretty complex environments and superintendents who are willing to map and target certain pests can save money! Billbug damage is most commonly evident along bunker slopes and similar rough areas. So, apply a cheap neonic (like generic imidacloprid) to those areas in May. Fairways and roughs that are regularly attacked by white grubs can be targeted with clothianidin in May and June, or a half rate of Acelepryn can be applied in July. Since greens and tees are often attacked by cutworms and sod webworms, an early season application of Acelepryn (late April) at the normal label rate, even the full label rate (i.e., 0.1 & 0.2 pounds AI/A) will keep these caterpillars under control for most of the season. In summary, I’m a real fan of multi-targeting of insecticide applications for turf insect control. The key to success is knowing what your potential pests are, their life cycles and knowing the residual activity of the insecticide(s) that you use.
Maximizing Turf Insect Controls for 2017 David Shetlar (The BugDoc), The Ohio State University
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BBdamage-BentTree – Billbug damage on golf courses is usually most evident on bunker slopes where the turf dries out quickly. Targeted applications in May, just to these areas, will keep the turf thick and green throughout the season.
OTF MEMBERS ON THE DOUBLE EAGLE WALK-ABOUT
Of the latest and greatest products to arrive onto the turfgrass market there is one group of materials that seem to have made a long term impact and have become mainstays for daily turfgrass management. The use of pigmented products has become as common as the use of fungicides. The turfgrass industry first began using green colored materials when malachite green (a green, water soluble dye that is known to be anti-microbial) was applied as a seed treatment for the control of brown patch and smut (Zontek, 1972). This product, however, was not used for a long period of time, as it was shown to have a negative impact on seed germination. Then in 1990, Dr. L.T. Lucas of North Carolina State University showed that when Aliette® (a phosphonate fungicide) was combined with Fore® (active ingredient mancozeb with a green color) there was a significant decline in creeping bentgrass summer stress (Vargas, 2002). This discovery led to the introduction of Chipco® SignatureTM (Bayer Environmental Science), a phosphite fungicide combined with green pigment, that is widely used today for disease control and turfgrass stress reduction. The initial thought on using/combining pigments into current pesticide products was twofold. The green color produced from the product’s application is directly beneficial, in that there is an improvement in turfgrass color that is also more consistent. However, this was also met with some skepticism as some superintendents and golfers saw the green color as being artificial. The second benefit brought the term ‘plant health’ into turfgrass management vocabulary due to the perception that there were secondary benefits to applications of products containing pigment during stressful periods of the golfing season. This point, however, has been heavily debated over the last decade. How can pigment application potentially change baseline plant physiology and decrease turfgrass stress? By definition, a pigment is any chemical compound that absorbs specific wavelengths of visible light, and to some extent ultra-violet (UV) light too. Due to this, our eyes see the wavelengths of light the pigment scatters (light that is not absorbed by the pigment). Pigments give eyes, skin, hair, and plants their natural colors. Pigments are also essential compounds for plant functionality. Chlorophyll is a plant pigment that efficiently absorbs red and blue light, and reflects a large proportion of green light. Chlorophyll pigments drive photosynthesis through the initial conversion of radiant energy into a usable, chemical form, of energy. Plant pigments like carotenoids strongly absorb blue light, but reflect red, orange, and yellow wavelengths of light. The carotenoid lycopene is what gives tomatoes their characteristic red color, but carotenoids actually accumulate in all plants. Carotenoids help protect plants from excessive light that can be stressful. In previous research in turfgrass, UV-B light treatments negatively affected carotenoid concentrations (Nangle et al., 2015). Turfgrasses, especially cool-season turfgrasses, can easily be saturated by light. In other words, you can keep applying light to the turfgrass plant, and there comes a point when extra light does not increase photosynthesis. When light-saturated, there is a high chance for light stress. Light stress occurs due to increased production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that physically damage proteins and molecules (like chlorophyll) that are involved in photosynthesis. Interestingly, light stress is actually a normal occurrence during many times of the year. On the other hand, because turfgrasses are generally under tremendous amounts stress from mowing and traffic, the addition of light stress may be more harmful for turfgrasses compared to other plant species. As mentioned above, some plant pigments like carotenoids can protect from light stress through absorbing excessive light prior to damaging chlorophyll or photosynthetic proteins. Anthocyanins are plant pigments that accumulate in the outer epidermal cells of turfgrasses to also absorb excessive light. Anthocyanins are plant pigments that strongly absorb UV as well as blue-green, and these pigments appear red-purple when they accumulate in turfgrasses. Red-purple turfgrass plants are readily seen during spring and fall seasons (Petrella et al., 2016). During the spring and fall daytime temperatures can be quite cool, and yet at the same time the sun can still be very bright. The combination of cool temperatures and high-light intensity (Picture 1) results in light stress that is as, or more, damaging than what is seen during the summer. This excessive amount of light stress signals to the plant to produce anthocyanin in a last ditch effort to provide protection. Anthocyanin accumulation is also linked to phosphorous deficiency, and turf undergoing drought conditions but red-purple turfgrass that is visible in the spring or fall is more than likely a light protection response. If turfgrass plants did not possess the ability to produce protective pigments, like carotenoids and anthocyanins, leaf tissue would be bleached white. There are proven examples of this in the turfgrass industry. The bleaching herbicides, mesotrione and topramezone, result in the whitening/bleaching within days following application. This is the result of the inhibition of the biochemical pathways that produce carotenoids and other photosynthesis-essential compounds like plastaquinone. When carotenoid production is inhibited by these herbicides, the production of ROS is increased exponentially to the point where chlorophyll is degraded and leaves appear white. In this instance it is easy to see how light can negatively impact the plant without pigment protection. The green pigment that is primarily used today is copper phthalocyanine, also called pigment green 7. However, the hue of some pigment products may due to a combination of pigment green 7, beta-copper phthalocyanine, a bright blue pigment, and maybe even other pigments. Phthalocyanines have been around since the 1930’s, and these pigment are stable under high intensity light, high temperature, and a wide range of solution pH’s (Quillen Lomax, 2005). Pigment green 7 can reduce up to 41% of visible light absorbed by turfgrass leaves, and this pigment can also decrease some UV light exposure as well (Fig. 1). It is hypothesized that when the pigment is sprayed, it sits on the leaf surface and absorbs excessive/damaging light, helping to prevent light stress. The primary question is, can pigment green 7 application decrease light stress in a similar fashion as carotenoids and anthocyanins? The pigment products that we see now with high frequency are mostly combination products including a fungicide. It must be pointed out, however, that the pigments included in some fungicides are the same basic group of pigments that we see in non-fungicidal products. These phthalocyanine pigments are also not water soluble, but rather form an emulsion unlike spray marking dyes, and dye marking product should not be alternated with pigment products. Results from various trials at The Ohio State University, and in the Midwest indicate a range of uses for pigments during the summer period. Applications of pigment will generally be result in turfgrass canopies being rated significantly more green (although whether the pigment is masking true turf color is also to be debated). There may be some subjectivity in regards to the actual ‘darkness’ of green based on golfers and superintendents color preferences – but there will be certainly a more consistent color (Picture 2) with the application. Superintendents have indicated in many settings that on south facing bunker faces some of these products have helped turfgrasses survive through a season. Superintendents are applying pigments to dormant warm season grasses as well as using them for promoting spring greenup. Golf courses in the northern United States are using the pigments for reductions in summer stress on golf greens as well as using fungicide and pigment combinations to enhance plant health responses during stressful periods. Critically and most important in regards to the fungicide component – there may be a benefit from the standpoint of degradation of the active ingredients (Eyheraguibel et al., 2011). Work from Florida on warm season grasses indicated that there was potential benefits in regards to maintaining photosynthetic rates under wear stress when plant health products were combined with pigments (Table 1). One issue that has been raised anecdotally has been a possible negative effect when the products are applied in heavily shaded conditions – and so care should be taken in those situations. The reduction in plant stress that has been seen with the use of these products has been somewhat variable, but there has been acceptance in the industry that these products are beneficial. There may be some niche uses, both due to location, timing and species differences but as another tool for summer stress management of Poa annua / creeping bentgrass putting surfaces they have certainly proven to be valuable. References: Eyheraguibel, B. C. Richard, G. Ledoigt, and A. Ter Halle. 2011. Inhibition of Herbicide Photodegradation by Plant Products. J. Agric. Food Chem., 2011, 59 (9), pp 4868–4873. Nangle, E. J. D. S. Gardner, J. D. Metzger, L. Rodriguez-Saona, M.M. Guisti, T.K. Danneberger, and Petrella, D.P. 2015 Pigment Changes in Cool-Season Turfgrasses in Response to Ultraviolet-B Light Irradiance. Agron. J. 107:41–50. Petrella, D.P., Metzger, J.D. Blakeslee, J.J. Nangle, E.J. and D.S. Gardner. 2016. Anthocyanin Production Using Rough Bluegrass Treated with High-Intensity Light. Hortsci 51(9):1111–1120. Quillen Lomax, S. 2005. Phthalocyanine and quinacridone pigments: their history, properties and use. Studies in Conservation. Volume 50, - Issue sup1 p 19-29 Vargas, Jr., J.M. 2002. Fungicide combination treats summer stress syndrome. Golfdom. February. Zontek S.J. 1972. A Guide to Turfgrass Fungicides For the 1970s. USGA Green Section Record
Pigments – What, Why, When, and Where is also important! EJ Nangle and DP Petrella, The Ohio State University
Picture 1. Anthocyanin pigments become visible as temepratures stay cool but light intensity increases (Credit D. Petrella)
PICTURE 2. Various pigments creating a color difference on a tee box (Credit E. Nangle)
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FIGURE 1. Alterations in light transmission due to pigment application. The top panel shows normal wavelength distribution of sunlight, and the bottom panel shows how green pigment application alters light transmission due to absorbing specific wavelengths of light. Green pigment decreases UV light transmission, and specially decreases the transmission of light between 400-500 nm and 600-700 nm.
TABLE 1. Photosynthetic rates on a bermudagrass green Cynodon spp in Ft Lauderdale FL, 2012-13. Day 42 is post 3 applications of all products at label rates and when wear was initiated.
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Dr. Michael Hurdzan (left) and OTF President, Jason Straka (right) during the 2017 US Open at Erin Hills. In our next edition of Turf News, we catch up with OTF members and architects of this Year's US Open venue, Erin Hills.
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Keys to Successfully Establishing Creeping Bentgrass in Newly Renovated Sand-Based Rootzones
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Dr. Zane Raudenbush, Ohio State
Background: I’ve visited golf courses with 40+ year old greens that continue to maintain high quality turfgrass, and I’ve visited courses with putting greens built in the early 2000’s that already show serious signs of decline. Obviously, the frequency and intensity of certain management practices (aerification, topdressing, irrigation, fertilization, etc.) affect the life expectancy of a particular putting surface; however, some factors will be entirely out of your control. For example, a flawed rootzone mix or crushed drain tile can cripple a putting green from its infancy. Perhaps you’ve been dealing with one of the aforementioned situations, and debate whether to pitch the idea of renovating or resurfacing your putting greens. It is a tough decision that will require many long days (and nights) on your part, but it’s a worthwhile endeavor. Before making a decision to pursue a putting green renovation project, realize a significant amount of site preparation needs occur before the first bentgrass seed is sown. This article is meant to focus on seedbed preparation, seeding, and the post-germination care associated with building or renovating a putting surface; however, I will offer two short pieces of advice for those attempting to tackle the site preparation in-house. The first is to “make hay while the sun shines”. Many of the steps are weather sensitive, so communicate to your staff why certain tasks MUST be completed during a stretch of dry weather, because a downpour can ruin several days’ worth of work in a matter of minutes. The second piece of advice is to “keep your eye on the prize”. Building or resurfacing a putting green requires coordination from many different entities – some of which will be out of your control. For instance, a broken track loader or malfunctioning dump truck could bring the operation to a screeching halt. Don’t let these setbacks manifest into bigger problems, rather, embrace the challenge and work with your crew and colleagues to find a solution. Once the site-work is complete, you’ll be ready to grow grass! A significant amount time and money has already been invested when trucks filled with rootzone mix make their way onto the property. The remainder of this article will provide some helpful tips to ensure your hard work produces a smooth and uniform putting surface. Floating the Rootzone Mix: I learned a lot of valuable lessons during the grow-in at Bayonne Golf Club, but the importance of properly “floating” the rootzone is at the top of the list. Once the rootzone mix is deposited in the cavity of the putting green and spread to establish the primary contours, then floating process can begin. Floating is important to encourage settling and firming of the rootzone. Begin by irrigating the rootzone for 20-30 minutes - you may need to adjust your cycle times to prevent washouts on severe slopes. Allow the rootzone to drain for ~1 hour, and use a 3-wheeled bunker rake to break up the surface and smooth any subtle imperfections. Afterwards, compact the entire surface with a pull-behind or self-propelled roller. The combination of irrigating, raking, and compacting should be completed at least five times. If floated properly, you will be able to walk across the rootzone without leaving any footprints. Choosing to forego this process will cost you many hours of topdressing and aerifying in order to smooth the surface in the months to come! Fertilization, Seedbed Preparation, and Seeding: Pay close attention to the weather forecast, because you will want a windless day to deposit the bentgrass seeds. On the day prior to seeding, I recommend applying 1.0 lbs N/1000ft2 using a poultry litter-based nitrogen source (e.g. Nature Safe or Sustane) and lightly incorporate it into the rootzone using a 3-wheeled bunker rake. Irrigation should be applied the evening prior to seeding to ensure the rootzone will be moist the following morning. On the day of seeding, rake the entire surface with the bunker rake and prepare to quickly apply 1.0 lbs N/1000ft2 using milorganite, 1.0 lbs N/1000ft2 using a quick release starter (e.g. 18-25-12), and Subdue GR to protect against damping off disease. It is important to work quickly because you do not want the top surface of the mix to dry out, hence, why it is best to seed in the early morning. Afterwards, seed the putting green with a drop spreader in 2-3 opposite directions, and always turn the drop spreader within the putting green cavity to prevent bentgrass contamination in the surrounds (it doesn’t matter if the spreader is in the “off” position….seeds are falling out, trust me). Once the seed has been deposited, quickly compact the entire surface using a small hand-roller to ensure good soil-to-seed contact, and irrigate immediately afterwards (8-12 minutes). Irrigation Timing and Cycles at Grow-In: Your irrigation frequency is going to be determined by the weather conditions. Ultimately, you are trying to keep the seeds moist, while avoiding any ponding on the surface during a cycle. During the heat of summer, 4-6 irrigation cycles per day, consisting of 6-12 minute runtimes will be required to keep the surface from drying out; fewer cycles will be needed during the spring and fall months. Germination rates will vary depending on the soil temperature, but creeping bentgrass typically germinates in 4-6 days during the summer months and 8-12 days during the spring and fall months. Irrigation frequency can usually be reduced after germination. Post-Germination Management: Your post germination practices need to encourage rapid shoot growth to quickly fill voids, and produce a dense canopy for the mower to ride upon. With this goal in mind, I recommend spraying urea (46-0-0) at 0.5 lbs N/1000ft2 on five day intervals for 3-4 weeks, and irrigating immediately after the spray to rinse the fertilizer off the leaf blades. Pythium will be a concern will the excessive growth produced by the urea applications, so spray Mefenoxam (Subdue) every 7 days until the urea applications are no longer needed (~4-6 weeks). All of the aforementioned applications should be made using a spray hawk or similar walk-behind sprayer. DO NOT attempt to drive any heavy equipment over the young seedlings. The first mow will likely occur 2-3 weeks after germination. Use a walk-behind mower with a solid front roller set to a bench height of 0.25”. There will inevitably be areas that scalp during the first mow, especially near the edges of the green, but these areas should recover in the weeks following. Frequent mowing serves two purposes: 1) encourages lateral growth to fill voids, and 2) begins to smooth the surface. In the summer months, I recommend mowing 4-5 times per week and 2-3 times per week during the spring and fall months. These mowing recommendations are based on the premise that you are encouraging rapid shoot growth. If you do not push the young bentgrass plants with frequent applications of soluble nitrogen, then you will likely observe this mowing frequency to be stressful. After 3-4 cuttings, begin reducing the cutting height by 0.01” with each mowing until you reach 0.180”. If the green is patchy and contains voids larger than a tennis ball, then I don’t recommend reducing the cutting height until they have filled in. Topdressing: Imperfections in the putting surface will become more apparent as the cutting height decreases, and topdressing is an essential practice for removing these imperfections. Using a rotary spreader, lightly apply dry sand in the afternoon hours to prevent granules from sticking to the leaf blade. This light, weekly topdressing should continue until all the imperfections in the putting surface have been removed. Preparing for Play: Young putting greens often look great, but it is important to remember they have almost no thatch. Yes, excessive thatch can be detrimental, but a little thatch provides a cushion for the meristematic tissues. With that said, be prepared for your pristine surface to struggle once play is allowed on the young green. I strongly encourage a “soft opening” of the putting green to gather some initial observations about how it deals with traffic before opening it to the masses. Timing: The time investment associated with the post germination care of a new putting green is going to be dictated by the time of year. Ideally, creeping bentgrass putting greens should be seeded from mid-August through the first week of September, because it provides two growing seasons (fall & spring) for the surface to mature. A putting green seeded in the fall should be ready for play the following June. If fall seeding is not an option, then an April seeding date is the second best option; a green seeded in the early spring should be ready for play by October. Lastly, I do not recommend attempting to seed putting greens during the summer months. Seeding mid-summer can be successful, but it requires a lot of babysitting to manage irrigation cycles and protect against diseases. If your timetable is flexible, then you should always campaign to seed in late-August and open for play the following June. Summary: This article is a guide to help superintendents successfully grow-in a new creeping bentgrass putting surface. There are specific details not addressed in this article, such as, rootzone mixtures, cultivar selection, seeding rates, and micronutrient fertilization. Please don’t hesitate to contact me at Raudenbush.2@osu.edu if you’d like to discuss any of the aforementioned details. Below are the take-home points from this article: Strategize and develop a game plan to successfully renovate your putting surface, but be prepared to overcome obstacles Select a quality rootzone and “float-in” the mixture to encourage settling and firmness Use a combination of poultry-litter, milorganite, and quick-release starter fertilizers pre-plant After germination, encourage rapid growth using liquid applications of urea Mow 2-3 weeks after germination with a walk-mower (solid front roller) set to a bench height of 0.25” Apply light and frequent topdressing to smooth surface as the cutting height decreases Ideally, seed creeping bentgrass in mid-August (avoid summer months if possible) Do not allow play on the putting green until it has fully matured
Bauer Voss Consulting Dr. Mike Boehm Al Brandt Dr. Karl Danneberger Robert Deeks Bill Easterday Ed Eaton Joe Enciso Robert Fisher George Furrer Tim Glorioso Greater Cincinnati GCSA Hurdzan Golf Design Mark Jordan Randy Kehres Don Lawrence Ted Mercer Harry Murray Ed Odorizzi Gene Probasco Rattlesnake Ridge GC Joseph Rimelspach Jim Sharp Richard Warner David Willoughby Matt Williams Mark Yoder
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"We found that brushing increased the overall quality of the turf..."
During this 3.5 month period we found no difference in quality and density among the non-brushed and brushed treatments; nor any physiological injury as measured by MDA and chlorophyll fluorescence. We did see a reduction in grain with brushing. In response to the lack of difference among our treatments we increased the brushing to 3 and 5 times a week, respectively. The brushing unit was adjusted to 0.0 inch for the duration of the study. In addition we added a double-cut (without brushing) treatment. We found that brushing increased the overall quality of the turf without causing visual or physiological injury as measured throughout the study. The brushed treatments had a more upright tight turf than the non-brushed treatments. We found in comparing the double-cut treatment with the double-cut and brushing treatment no difference in green speed (stimpmeter readings). We did find a reduction in the cuticular layer (as measured by amount of cuticle wax) of turfgrass plants subjected to our treatments. However in comparing again the double-cut and double-cut and brushed treatments the loss of cuticle wax was due to the double-cutting and not brushing. Interestingly, two weeks after the termination of the study no difference in the amount of cuticle was detected among the treatments implying the loss is temporary. From this study with the newly developed brushes, we found that brushing enhanced the quality of the creeping bentgrass surface with minimal injury (visual or physiological) to the turf even under intensive mowing (double-cutting and brushing). Enhancements in the putting surface attributed to brushing included a more upright turf (reduction in grain) and no effect on ball roll. Acknowledgement: Appreciation to Matt Williams, Arly Drake and Dominic Petrella, Department of Horticulture, The Ohio State University.
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Over the last few years we have conducted a series of putting green brushing studies that were spearheaded by one of our former graduate students Gail Gu (the study was her M.S. thesis). Over the last several years technical advances in brushing attachments/units are changing how we think of brushing. The brushing units we used are located immediately in front of the cutting unit and are referred to by several names including precision brushing. The initial premise of the study was to determine if continual use of brushing resulted in visual decline of the turf or physiological injury. And if so, how long would it take the turf to recover. The premise was if injury occurred we could determine the appropriate timing and frequency for brushing. The studies were conducted at the Ohio Turfgrass Foundation from May 2014 through October 2015. The turfgrass was ‘Penncross’ Agrostis slolonifera (creeping bentgrass) established on a native soil mix. Creeping bentgrass is a stoloniferous turfgrass with a prostrate growth. Prostrate growth is often associated with grain. Brushing is a means for reducing grain by “standing up” the plants. The creeping bentgrass turf was maintained at 0.125 inches, mowed 6 days a week. Trinexapac-ethyl (Primo®) was applied weekly at 0.125 ounces per 1000 square feet, and the turf was sand topdressed on a weekly basis. Nitrogen was applied biweekly at 0.25 pounds per 1000 square feet and the turf was irrigated to prevent wilt. The treatments consisted of a 1) single mowing cut, 2) brushing once a week (brushing with a separate cut, and 3) brushing three times a week with a separate single cut. Jacobsen® Eclipse 2 mowers were used. The brushing treatments were done with a medium brush set at the height of cut. The study was conducted from May 2014 through the middle of August, 2014. During that time observations on visual quality, density, and growth habit were made. Physiologically, we measured malondialdehyde (MDA) production, which is an indicator cell membrane damage to the plant and chlorophyll fluorescence which is a measure of photosynthetic efficiency (if stress is occurring a reduction in efficiency would occur). During this 3.5 month period we found no difference in quality and density among the non-brushed and brushed treatments; nor any physiological injury as measured by MDA and chlorophyll fluorescence. We did see a reduction in grain with brushing. In response to the lack of difference among our treatments we increased the brushing to 3 and 5 times a week, respectively. The brushing unit was adjusted to 0.0 inch for the duration of the study. In addition we added a double-cut (without brushing) treatment. We found that brushing increased the overall quality of the turf without causing visual or physiological injury as measured throughout the study. The brushed treatments had a more upright tight turf than the non-brushed treatments. We found in comparing the double-cut treatment with the double-cut and brushing treatment no difference in green speed (stimpmeter readings). We did find a reduction in the cuticular layer (as measured by amount of cuticle wax) of turfgrass plants subjected to our treatments. However in comparing again the double-cut and double-cut and brushed treatments the loss of cuticle wax was due to the double-cutting and not brushing. Interestingly, two weeks after the termination of the study no difference in the amount of cuticle was detected among the treatments implying the loss is temporary. From this study with the newly developed brushes, we found that brushing enhanced the quality of the creeping bentgrass surface with minimal injury (visual or physiological) to the turf even under intensive mowing (double-cutting and brushing). Enhancements in the putting surface attributed to brushing included a more upright turf (reduction in grain) and no effect on ball roll. Acknowledgement: Appreciation to Matt Williams, Arly Drake and Dominic Petrella, Department of Horticulture, The Ohio State University.
Written by Dr. Karl Danneberger, The Ohio State University
DOES BRUSHING CONTRIBUTE TO TURF STRESS?
Horticulture & Crop Science Dr. Karl Danneberger danneberger.1@osu.edu Dr. David Gardner gardner.254@osu.edu Dr. John Street (Emeritus) street.1@osu.edu Mrs. Pamela Sherratt sherratt.1@osu.edu Mr. Matt Williams williams.1278@osu.edu School of Natural Resources Dr. Ed McCoy mccoy.13@osu.edu Entomology Dr. David Shetlar (Emeritus) shetlar.1@osu.edu Plant Pathology Dr. Francesca Peduto Hand pedutohand.1@osu.edu Mr. Todd Hicks hicks.19@osu.edu Mr. Joseph Rimelspach rimelspach.1@osu.edu 2-Year Turfgrass Program Dr. Zane Raudenbush raudenbush.2@osu.edu Dr. Ed Nangle nangle.1@osu.edu Athletics Mr. Dennis Bowsher bowsher.33@osu.edu Mr. Brian Gimbel gimbel.1@osu.edu International Programs Mr. Mike O'Keeffe okeeffe.1@osu.edu
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We talk about membership value quite often these days. Quite honestly, we should. When our organization was founded in 1961, there were few outlets for turfgrass information. These days, you can stumble across education and recertification credits around nearly every corner. So where's the value for your membership? Let's start with the simple dollars and cents... An Individual Membership costs $95: If a member and non-member decided to attend each OTF education event with a full registration, here's what they would have spent: OTF Member = $315 Non-Member = $425 In attending OTF events, an individual member has already made their membership investment back! If your company is taking advantage of our workers' compensation program, the membership is producing a significant return on investment. The average member enrolled in the program saves $1,814 on their premium. 70% of the companies enrolled qualify for the maximum discount. In addition to these measurable returns, members can also save money on equipment rentals, vehicles, safety material and more. These are solid returns for your investment, but equally as important are the benefits that can't be measured. OTF is my life, so I see it on a daily basis. For many though, they don't understand exactly what being a part of this community offers. It was evident yet again at a recent OTF function held at Double Eagle. Though Double Eagle is a golf course, members on hand from sports turf and lawn care were able to take home as many applicable lessons as their peers from the golf industry. Attendees picked up lessons in poa control and management, labor management and more. Plus, it was a rare opportunity to see an exclusive facility. These type of opportunities are only available because of your investment in the Ohio Turfgrass Foundation. I encourage you to take advantage of these and other OTF hosted functions along the way. We're all busy, but taking a bit of time to attend an event can make an immediate impact in your program and in your career. We're excited for the new format of Field Day, which will now be more of an "open house" offering attendees the flexibility to engage in conversation, view research results, meet (and interview!) turf students, interact with vendors and more. The goal of the new format is to promote conversation among participants which is where you really get value from your membership! Best wishes for a successful summer!
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